Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Yeah, I think so. Will checkl later but I'm sure it was within tolerances provided by Reynolds.

It's a product of the geometry of the hub, the rim and the spoke pattern and you're stuck with it with no solution (that I know of anyway)

You would think the manufacturer would introduce some asymmetry to the rim, or increase the pcd of the hub ds to combat the tension balance, but apparently they haven't and instead build them dished off centre.

I wonder if it was a hub designed for an asymetrical rim, but a normal one used or something. It's very strange anyway. I've just trued it, put a bit of tension into the NDS and it's about 5mm off centre (dishing tool is at my dad's). I've just taken it up and down the street doing endos on it and it's still true <1mm and perfectly round. Tension on the drive side is 13 all the way round, which is 100-120 depending on which column you choose on the TM 1 conversion (which one to use for CX ray is different depending where you look). Front, which I haven't touched, is 11. Non drive side is about 3.

I honestly don't know what to do. I don't see it failing catastrophically and killing me, but taking chances with carbon seems silly. I could sack it off and sell it as knackered, along with the working front and cut my losses, or keep it for flat, local rides (which seems totally pointless when I need a proper wheelset for hills this summer). If nothing else it has reminded me how much I enjoy building wheels so maybe I'll go down that route next. This has put me off secondhand carbon wheels for sure.

Anyone interested in a pair of kinlin xr31t rims? Brand new, bought for project, not yet out of wrappers. 24 / 28 hole (28 offset)?

Cheapest i can find online is £55 for one. I'll take £70 for pair

So I picked up some cheap CX-Ray spokes from Planet X (I know...) and many of them have some weird substance by the threads. Is this linseed oil residue or something?

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Could well be linseed oil residue. I've seen similar deposits when rebuilding wheels that had it as spoke prep.

Thanks. Either way, they shouldn't have been sold to me as 'new' then...
I repeat: "Planet X are cunts"

Dibs for a friend. Will check now and PM shortly.

Undibs @Bonj0ur

Sorry, he's after 32's.

Off centre 650b rims for a disc brake wheel set.

It's for a nice bike- undecided re aluminium or carbon. Offset drilling - seems to make sense, should it be used for both front and rear to make stronger more evenly tensioned wheels?

Also looks a bit like aluminium corrosion build-up (i.e. they've previously been laced to aluminium nipples and left out in the rain for months). Appalling on something sold as 'new' regardless of what it is.
They probably had a roof leak and were too tight to fix it.

Just built up a wheelset using Ultegra 6500 hubs 32h (or was it 6600...) and Sun Tour SunXCD Polished Alloy rims. This was for a vintage look for my Cinelli SC.

The rims were half price (£30 each) because of some minor blemish/dent which I was able to sort out easily. They built up very nicely, but not as well as the TB14s. However, they were better than the Orange PBP rims, which seem to be less rigid than the other two. I think if I were paying full dollah, I'd go for the TB14s for a vintage look rather than the SunXCDs.

yes, unless you're like @hippy and building with a symmetrical front dynamo hub....

The park guage give a reading but the chart does not tell you the true tension.

I build with carbon rims regularly and carbon rims can take high tensions. I use nipple washers and put 1300N DS. I know the rim will take more but there is little point as there is enough tension on the NDS spokes for fatigue not to be an issue.

The wheel has been messed with. I cannot see any reason why a manufacturer would sell wheels so far out of dish.

Quick stupid question for you all but what is the benefit of having an offset on the back wheel? Looking at potentially buying @Bonj0ur's rims to replace some Fulcrum Racing Quattros

Assuming you don't mean offset wheels as with the original wonky 135mm-both-ends Surly Pugsley...

Offset rim reduces the tension difference between the two sides when your hub isn't symmetrical.

Ha, not sure what that first sentence means but I'm talking about Kinlin XR31T in this instance

In dubtap's diagram, they're suggesting using asymmetrical chainstays to move the hub right so that the rim is centred between the hub flanges. Fatbikes with offset-135 rear ends do this so that the chain doesn't rub the 3.5"+ tyre in the easier gears.

Using offset rims to move the tip of the spoke triangle to the left lets you achieve a more symmetrical build without wonky frames.

Okay great, so this would work fine in the case of a Hope Mono rear hub and most road frame and provide a more solid build correct?

Are there any disadvantages?

Nope. Go for it!

Hello,

I've got some 36 hole campagnolo super record pista large flange hubs.

And I'm pairing them with magic MA40 rims.

I'm looking to use dt competition spokes.
I'm basically wondering what size of spokes and which spoke calculators are used, which are the best?

https://leonard.io/edd/

Yeah SP disc dyno hubs are symm. which is why I still have an offset 32h sitting around home. Stupid wheels.

x post AQA...

Where in London will I be able to get a ~292mm straight pull black CX-Ray as soon as possible?