Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I've got Mack Low Flanges 20/24 (silver) on the way. I was initially planning on lacing them with Sapim CX-Rays, but then vaguely remember reading somewhere that they have to be machined specifically for aero spokes.

With that in mind I looked to DT Comps/DT Super Comps, is the only different between them the treating of the metal? Or just Sapim Laser in black. In each case I will also just use brass nipples in silver.

As for rims my options are Archetypes/XR22Ts/China Carbon (noting I want a braking surface).

Does the choice of spoke/nipple/rim make the process of building a wheel anymore or any less brainless?

CX-Rays don't need slotted hubs.

CX-Rays (and DT Aerolite) fit through 2.3mm round holes, its the wider aero spokes like Sapim CX and DT New Aero which require keyholed flanges.

Thanks guys, I got caught up in just scanning for the weight of things that I missed this line: "The CX-Ray fits is all standard hub holes".

Thin spokes get wound up more easily

:)

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Spot on! DIY?

Yup, just finished. Not tensioned or trued though

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This wheel set is looking so clean without the stickers. Can't wait to see it on the full build ;)

I don't wanna be the guy that is fishing for compliments but I kinda nailed it
https://youtu.be/ecJEVE_DuhM

I didn't do anything really, just 3,75 turns (in 2-1-0,5-0,25 steps) for each nipple

Spoke tensions even too?

Yup, but the wheel seems to be radially off. It starts spinning when it's hold upright.

Isn't that just a weight imbalance between the valve hole and the joint opposite, which will even out once there's a valve in the hole?

If it's radially off you can see it going up and down relative to your reference point.

Does that really make a difference? Funny enough that the valve hole is at 12 o'clock once the wheel swings out.
I couldn't check for radial trueness as the workshop of our uni doesn't have a gauge for it but my eyes didn't spot anything odd.

the valve hole is at 12 o'clock once the wheel swings out.

heavier weld/pin joint ends up at the bottom.

I true wheels by putting a strip of masking tape across a fork or stays so it barely brushes the rim.

That worked. It's a bit wobbly as you can clearly hear but I'm afraid it's nothing I can take care of properly.
https://youtu.be/g3r14-7P9Qw

anywhere between 200-300N DS it depends on the rim tyre combo.

for all you wheel builders out there if you are like me and have a broken collar bone and thumb on your other hand and find stress relieving a bit painful a tool helps. however a crank arm can scratch black spokes and dent them a bit so a beech lead beater comes to the rescue.

Got a set of three of ebay for £20. now i need to beat some lead.

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a broken collar bone and thumb

What have you done now? Have you considered something safer, like lion taming?

so do you build a wheel up to the rim manufacturers tension, then install the tyre and increase tension?

Nope. I tension up as far as i dare. Install tyres, check dish as big tension drops affect dish and check trueness then ship. The customer may choose to use clinchers at a future date or sell the wheels to some one who uses tubes. So i cant over tension the wheel. Hense i use alot of asymetric rims ut that is not essential either. Got one set of wheels with 24 spome pacenti sl23 with tight irc tyres installed. The miche supertype hubs leave a bit under 400N on the nds as i use 1150n max on the V1 rims. With tubeless tyres there is 300n or so on the nds spokes but because the nds flange is 46mm from centre (1:1 lacing) the wheel is very stiff so the low tension does not matter as the spokes dont loose tension. So you can overthink this.

Just fit tubless tyres to well built, even tensioned stiff wheels and all will be well.

I tend to build tubeless wheels with the dish set 1/4 turn to the nds so it corrects when a tubeless tyre is fitted. With a tubed tyre the correction is partial.

I took a lie down in a race when one of the riders at the front turned on a straight bit into a rider to the left of him. They took a lie down and it would have rude of me not to join them so i did with a bit of a bump. The bike is fine though thanks for asking!

Apparently the new Mavic Open Pro's are going to retail around £145 each.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUi6qVFj37f/?taken-by=sigmasportbikeshop&hl=en

145? 1 rim? Insane

Hardly insane, when folks are happy to burn £150 on Hed rims:)

Wheeltec now sells the aluminium toroidal shape AL33 rims, 19.6 mm inner. €125 or €170 for the ceramic version. I'm quite tempted but the price is in LB carbon territory :/