Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I'm probably going to skip building my own wheels for this project because of time limitations. I'm honestly just trying to get a summer whip ready for when I get back to London to flex on my friends.

I like your analogy a lot though, so I'll keep it in for the next build keeping the mentality of n+1 bikes in mind :D

Building straight, round carbon wheels should be easy so long as you start with a rim that is straight and round.

Assemble loosely, check the pattern's right, wind the spokes til you can't see the thread, then go round the wheel adding half-a-turn until the tension's almost ridable. At this point you should have relatively even tension and the rim should be radially true (no major ups/downs) and close to dished (assuming the spoke lengths were right). Work on the roundness before the side-to-side.

With these motivational comments I feel like my build is going to be half baked if I don't build my own wheels now :(

If you're building fixed/ss, using a flip-flop hub is an easy way to get symmetrical flanges, which means same length spokes both sides and a super easy no-dish build.

Honestly, I don't think that a qualified wheel builder will be significantly faster if you count in the waiting times. Unless the wheels are ready for collection in the same day.

Is that like Chinese carbon but with an even worse human rights record?

Lolz

Hmm this is a good point, I didn't even realise waiting times were a thing. I know that Seabass cycles do same day collection builds.

@Emyr I am fully set on getting Mack Hubs without the flipflop option btw.

Once my calendar clears up more in two weeks time, I'll have a chance to read into wheel building fully, based on the comments here it seems completely viable to DIY. Thanks again to all of those offering advice!

Where can i get 282 dt supercomp black spokes? I need five so don't want a whole box.

@cycleclinic how much spoke tension would you expect to lose in a road tubeless wheel when the tyre is installed?

Those are some really weird hubs! Any more info?

it's campagnolo tuned hub Sigmund Hermann 28 h

@russmeyer It's a Hi-Lo hub. Not totally unique, the Campag ones are rare and valuable. I have a Phil 6 speed one. It's meant to improve the triangulation and reduce tension difference on dished wheels. Seems pretty pointless on a track hub, as the shells are easily made symmetrical. But that one^ is damn sexy looking.

Thanks @Gaston @Skülly .

When did they take all the non DTswiss hub and rim info out the DTswiss spoke calc?

Any other ones around with a decent database of measurements built in?

https://leonard.io/edd/

... built by the forum's very own Lenny. Total dude.

Someone here designed that?
Too cool, I've found it to be very useful over the few builds that I've done.

Cheers.

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Asymetric building...WTF?!

I've always been a symetric builder but the hub I'm lacing up just now has previously been built asymetric...

...I think. I've put my inbound (fed from the outside of the flange towards the inside) spokes in one side and started them at the hole to the left of the valve hole. When I flip the wheel over and find the spoke hole in the other flange that I'd normally 'pair' with the spoke i laced to what is now the right of the valve hole, the dent in the flange tells me that it was an outbound spoke not inbound.

So, what I would normally do is symetric and this hub has been built asymetric right?

It's my understanding that when building with a pre-used hub it's better to have spokes going the same way as they have previously?

Given that I've never built asymetric, am I better doing a good job of building symetric and have the hub stressed a bit more or should I persevere and try build asymetric?

If building asymetric, what order do I do things? Guy that I'm in work withtoday says he builds asymetric and puts all the spokes in the hub first, this seems like it'll be a total pita?

Will I be able to weave my inbound spokes once I have the hub twisted and half built?

Will I be able to weave my inbound spokes once I have the hub twisted and half built?

Maybe, but it's a PITA. Get all the inbound spokes in first, it will feel a bit weird having one set pushing and the other set pulling, but nowhere near as weird as trying to thread the last set of inbound spokes into a wheel which already has 3/4 of the spokes in place.

Cheers, wasn't too bad doing it this way actually.

I started reading this and was getting more confused not less.

Your way really wasn't too bad.

In that link they talk about inside pull and outside pull but don't really explain if or why either is better than the other, any opinions on this?

I take it symetric v asymetric is gonna be a fight starting debate but I can perhaps see why asymetric could be considered better for a track wheel which can flipped around and symetric for a road wheel which will only ever be driven in one direction.

any opinions on this?

It's only really a material consideration for situations where something wants to hit the spokes, usually the RD on road bikes and the front disc caliper especially on big wheels. In those cases, having the inbound spokes pulling and the spokes interlaced causes the last crossing to pull inboard, away from the interference hazard, under load. On wheels where nothing is in any real danger of crashing the spokes, there is no good reason to choose one way over the other.

Nice one.

Cheers for your help.