Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

leave the wheel for the oil to cure now

If anything you should be riding it immediately after building. Youd rather any movement thats going to occur to happen before the oil cures, else when they do loosen after curing there'll be nothing holding them in place.

A well built, even tension wheel thats been properly destressed shouldnt have any nipple movement after the build whatsoever

else when they do loosen after curing there'll be nothing holding them in place

What do you mean by that? Surely loosening after curing is no different to having built without linseed oil. A hard 10 miles today and no movement or pinging plus the tension was even, within 5% and still is.

I guess thats true. If the tension is so uneven that spokes will unwind even with cured linseed oil, you were fucked to begin with

ACI are fine for me and cheapz/double butted.

Built a 28H spokes set on h+son have not exploded yet ;)

Thanks all for the advice. Some boiled linseed oil will be ordered soon!

This chimes with my experience of using linseed oil to season cast iron pans.

This thread (well, you) just delivered an incidental thing I really needed to know. Any quick advice on how to do this? I have a couple of iron pans that could do with a better seal - assuming it's ok to re-season a used pan?

Anyone used the Shimano RS505 hubs?

How's the sealing? They're to be used on a cross wheelset, I've had good experience of cup and cone on road but unsure how it stands up to pressure washers and mud.

Mud will be fine, pressure washers can always fuck off.

Sounds like a relatively safe bet for a couple of budget race wheelsets then. No real competition at that price.

Shame the tool-less preload adjustment of the dura ace hubs hasn't trickled down.

I interpreted that as 'don't use pressure washers'.
The sealing won't be as good as on the CX75 or 105-and-up series components.

You interpreted that correctly, unless the plan is to rebuild them with new grease after every wash, in which case have at it.

How do they compare to Deore/LX etc hubs? Assuming you're building them 32 spoke, the MTB disc hubs are a lot more common, so you might find an equivalent or higher spec MTB discounted to cheaper than the RS505.

Not had a proper look at them but they seem pretty similar to deore, but have a freehub that'll do 11 speed road stuff if that's what you need.

How much to get a recently built rear wheel re dished to centre rather than 5 mm too much drive side ?

Ah, I interpreted that as persistent jet washing will kill any bearings. They do claim to use labyrinth seals, but perhaps they're of a lower quality than the CX75s.

CX75 and RS505 both use Contact hub seals.

SLX FH-M7000 weighs about the same as RS505, but has Labyrinth & Contact seals. The flanges are further apart and you'd have to use an MTB cassette if you want 11speed.

They look a good bet actually, assumed they'd be heavier given their mountain bike status.

Is it worth using Revolution spokes for the 50 gram saving over Competition? And I've never built with alu nipples, is it too much of a pain for 20 grams per wheel?

Is it worth using Revolution spokes for the 50 gram saving over Competition?

No.

And I've never built with alu nipples, is it too much of a pain for 20 grams per wheel?

I find Sapim Polyax ali nipples the easiest of all nipples, including brass, to build with and I've never had a problem with them corroding.

So Revs no, ali nips yes. ATMO.

What's the difference between Sapim Polyax Al nipples and those from other manufacturers that prevents the inevitable corrosion in British weather? I use the brass Polyax nipples and washers and to date find them great but on the odd occasion I've used DT Swiss Al nipples they corroded. I could have course have done something wrong, in the correct conditions I'm sure they are great.

I'm looking for some decent 24" rims (or complete wheels) for my sons next road bike. Any recommendations/links?

Sapim Polyax ali nipples

In which case maybe I'll use the Sapim D-Light spokes. Less rotational mass with the short butting at the rim end and disc specific.

I've always built with revolution and I'm not as light as you, nor as smooth on the bike. The wheels I had yesterday at Herne Hill were built with revolution and are perfectly true today.

Nobody is disputing that Revolutions work, the question was whether they are worth having. The only value they might have would be if they allowed you to go further or faster. If you replace 1-for-1 Comps, the faster bit is possible but by a vanishingly small margin. If you really can use a Rev in place of a Comp, you were already using too many Comps, and you will achieve more "faster" by cutting the spoke count with Comps than you will by cutting the strength/stiffness by using thinner spokes.

Hubs and rims at a decent price are few and far between with drillings less than 32h though. On the other hand reduced XC gear suitable for a tough CX wheelset is plentiful.

I'm going for XT hubs laced to WTB Frequency i19 with Sapim D-Lights. Should be >1800 grams and >£150.

what are people's opinions on these twos gets of hubs?
http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/product/novatec-disc-hubs/

http://www.stradawheels.co.uk/product/dt-swiss-350-disc-hubs/

thinking of building up some wheels using h plus the hydra or pacenti sl25,

any advice would be appreciated massively!