Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Good idea. Thanks.

    I assume you mean my NDS is up to tension as that side is still reasonably high it is the DS that's loosening but not all spokes it seems, about 1/4 of them.

    I'll order linseed oil tonight. I assume any old linseed oil will do and I should just use it like oil, ie coat the thread and assemble.

  • Sorry, I'm a bit confused now.

    Today I went to ride it and found some non-drive side spokes very loose - could turn the nipples by hand

    If the drive side is loosening, I would rebuild completely. If it is the non drive side I would only do that side, and that means the drive side is tensioned. When tightening the nds you will dish the wheel and when it is correctly dished you should have the appropriate tension on both sides.

  • When it dries it turn into linoxyn that is both sticky and insoluble meaning that neither water nor degreaser, oil, alcohol or lubes will dissolve it, and the spoke will stay put :)

  • Boiled linseed oil is very viscous and sets in 24 hours so perfect for wheelz

  • Amazing! Will invest in some. How long does boiled oil take to harden inside a nipple?

  • This chimes with my experience of using linseed oil to season cast iron pans.

  • So Condor are selling Mavic Open Pro Ceramic for a ton each.

  • Who are people going to for spokes these days? I used to use Rose but post brexit theyve got a lot pricier. Anywhere you can get swiss comps for less than 50p a spoke posted?

  • Use Sapim Race?

  • Which shop? Still seem as expensive from a quick google.

    I was also planning on using prolock nipples for my next build, which seem to be DT Swiss exclusive spoke-wise

  • Sorry @Simba, I'll try and make it less confusing.

    The wheel is a front disc wheel (so the drive side is only relative), the higher tension side is therefore the disc or non-drive side. The wheel was built first from the non-drive side and then dished using the drive side spokes; the opposite of what you would do for a rear wheel as the higher tension side is the disc side.

    Does your suggestion of a complete rebuild still stand.

  • Just realised the confusion in my original post I'd written the non-drive side spokes were loose where I meant drive side. Sorry.

  • No, you can use them with anything except freaky Sapim 1.8mm ultra lightweight spokes.

  • Ok, and I didn't read front disc hub, so we're getting there. If the drive side spokes of your front disc wheel are loosening, then disassemble that side, clean threads and lube with linseed before dishing again. If nds spokes are loosening (disc side) then rebuild completely. (And use linseed oil ;) )

  • Sapim spokes from @thecycleclinic through his site or eBay shop, or ACI Alpina DB (2.0-1.7-2.0mm) spokes from Cyclebasket.
    Postage from the latter can be a little pricey, but if you plan to order spokes for a few wheels at a time, the postage cost is more than absorbed by how cheap the spokes are.

  • Thanks. Linseed oil arrived today. I'll give it a try as soon as I get a chance. The weather forecast is poor for the weekend so maybe tomorrow.

    Thanks again.

  • Sorry @simba, a final question. If the linseed oil dries in 24 hours does this mean the build/repair must be completed in that time to avoid issues of spoke wind-up?

    I'm a slow builder and usually take 3 days to do a wheel doing a bit each evening or when I can grab an hour.

  • Yes. You need them done before the oil cures.
    Maybe do one wheel at a time.

  • What's the best technique to build with linseed oil?
    (i.e. for max. benefit with minimum mess/oil dripping onto/into rim)
    Dip the spoke threads, soak the nipples? I assume submerging the nipples in oil AND dipping spoke threads is the belt and braces way to ensure complete thread-thread oil penetration once assembled, but can imagine this can get a bit messy. Anybody have some pro tips? Does anybody use a syringe/pipette/dropper to drop oil into each nipple, or is that a bit overkill?

  • I dipped a spare spoke into the oil, then partially threaded it into the nipples to transfer some oil onto the threads. Seemed to work and kept things fairly tidy.

  • @Lukas Spare-spoke-dip and then apply (touch) spoke thread, done.

  • I only oil the spoke threads. Itll still transfer into the nipples when your build the wheel, no need to submerge both

  • only oil the spoke threads

    That's what I did last night. Went for a quick spin to ensure nothing was drastically wrong and will leave the wheel for the oil to cure now. Time will tell if it was ok.

    The one thing I couldn't do was clean out the threads of the nappies prior to rebuilding with linseed oil. Couldn't seem to clear them, a cotton bud was way too thick.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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