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Those two bits look like pieces of the rim picked up by a stone or whatever that was embedded in the brake pad. Replacement would depend on depth of gouges around the bits.
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Novatec d772 hub takes a campagnolo feeehub.
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Novatec d772 or miche syntium dx
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That me. I have put the disc brake kinlins on the web yet.
The kinlin xr31 rt ocr catchy name right is 490g. The r460's i have weighed are 485g so not much in it.
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I found a shop with DT swiss new aero spokes!
Black (or white or silver):
http://ebike.hu/termekek/kerek/kullo/109324_dt-new-aero-fekete-kullo/
about 1.5 euros each + 6.5 euros for shipping, you order and then they get them from dt swiss, took a week for me.or cheaper silver from Poland:
http://bikepark.com.pl/sklep/szprychy-i-nyple/dt-new-aero
0.93 euros + 4 euro shipping -
Just received spokes for a powertap gs build. I calculated for a 2-cross pattern but of course the holes are not regularly spaced. Doh. Spokes are too short. So having a look at their chart.
http://www.powertap.com/Uploads/PDF/PowerTap-Manuals/powertap-gs-hub-spoke-length-chart.pdf
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Holes not regularly spaced. Have you a photo. Seems odd but it seems they have done it to get the same spoke length for both sides. More oddness.
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anyone used these https://www.bike24.com/p2158134.html ? after a difference of vectors with an audi i seem to have cracked my ambrosio excellight rim, and was thinking about just replacing both rims with these as erd seems to be the same as excellights?
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I'm after some light, tubeless ready disc wheels with wider (25mm+) rims for use on a Croix de Fer which will be used for winter gears, light touring and the odd bit of light cross. I'll be taking advantage of the tyre clearances to run wider (30mm+) tyres.
Because the frame is heavier than I'd really like and I'll be fitting Shimano full hydro brakes all being well I'm trying to shave off weight elsewhere, I've got a carbon fork and am trying to build it up as the faster end of the CdF spectrum.
I'd prefer hand built and rim-wise have been looking at Pacenti SL25's (claimed 450g, £75), Stans Crest 29ers (claimed 380g, £49 in 28h), Ryde Pulse Sprint (claimed 395g, apparently actually 380g £70) and Ryde Pulse Comp (430g, £39 in 28h). I weigh just over 6okg so even with with touring kit I'd not be going north of 70kg all in. I'd prefer all black as silver braking surfaces seem a bit pointless for a disc rim, so that probably takes the Pulse Comps off the list.
Stans Crests seem to win on weight v. budget and although I've read that they have a 60p.s.i. limit this seems to only be for tubeless. Don't know how the wheelbuilders rate them though?
@amey mentioned an all black Ryde Pulse Sprint in this thread. I'm not sure if this is the Pulse Comp disc which Ryde reckon are 390g but are presumably lower, as I can't find all black Pulse Sprints?
http://www.ryde.nl/pulse-comp-discI don't know anything about spokes for disc wheels but Sapim D-Light seem popular so would be my default. I presume CX Rays would be too flexy for disc use?
I've looked at Novatec D772SB / D771SB hubs which I'd like for weight/cost reasons but have heard bad things about ease of servicing and bearing quality which are putting me off them. Tempted to default to heavier Hope Pro 4's (Hope are my usual go to for geared hubs) but I'm very open to ideas...
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CX-Rays are Lasers with the centre section stamped flat. The cross-sectional area of the spoke is therefore the same as a Laser. Since the stiffness of the spoke depends on the amount of material used, they're no more or less flexy than Lasers.
I've used CX-Rays on disc wheel builds, including my 29er wheels. They've been fine.
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Not quite true - the stiffness of something in bending depends on its second moment of area. That's why steel structures use I-beams - to get as much mass as far from the neutral axis of bending as possible, without increasing the weight of the beam. By flattening the spoke they've made this different in the two perpendicular directions, so it is stiffer in one direction and more flexible in the other.
However you are right that they will behave the same in tension/compression as the material (so Young's modulus) and cross sectional area (so stress) are the same. -
However you are right that they will behave the same in tension
When you apply any load other than tension to a wire spoke, get back to us with your maths :-)
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It's great that you know about Euler and his buckling theory, but you just don't get to use it here. The point is that you won't apply compressive forces to spokes in 99% of bicycle wheels (I think there was a Mavic wheel model that used compression, once).
So spokes are under a lot of tension, and the magnitude of tension on each spoke will vary during use (particularly when sprinting & disc braking). However! You will never take a spoke down to 0N tension and start compressing it, as there's so much tension on it to begin with. Nor will you apply a bending moment to a spoke. The spoke ends are not constrained enough to start applying those forces. It is only ever simple tension, and in the direction of the spoke.
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I know, but thank you. @mdcc_tester asked me to get back to him with the maths having pointed out that my post missed the point a bit.
My original post wasn't saying that you need to consider spokes under compression (although the maths of it are, up to buckling, identical to tension) or bending, just that 'flexy' is a rather dangerous term to use. There are more aspects to an objects stiffness than how much material is in it and that's what I was trying to say. -
Re Novatecs: Bearings are OK to start with. Servicing is as easy as any cartridge bearing hub. Bearings are gone, buy some TPI/ Enduro bearings and roll on. It is also a good start to stick some marine grease behind them end caps to prevent water ingress.
Re rims : Kinlin xr22t disc. Offset and non machined , 19mm internal , about 430g each , Great finish , great price. tubeless ready.Let me know if you want some:)
People should get rid of the " madeintaiwanophobia"
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Righteo, looking to pick some brains here. More or less just finished truing and tensioning a rear disc wheel (36h Grand Cru touring hub laced to Velocity Chukker, DT Swiss Alpine III spokes). Because this is my first disc hub build last night did some double checking about whether I need to lace it differently (I was just following the Jobst Brandt book like with the rim brake builds I've done).
Attached picture is what I've done. However, this is what Peter Verdone + Shimano says to do
i.e I've got my braking spokes with the heads the wrong way. Drive side is fine.Question is: should I relace the braking side??
1 Attachment
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rhb
atk
withered_preacher
thecycleclinic
svenhöek
arup
jupiz
Fox
Turkish
Brommers
hamrack
gbj_tester
Ndeipi
broken_777
highlandmoo
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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help
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It's mostly the two 'dots' in the surface I was worried about. Brakes probably a little unbalanced, it's a commuter/pub bike so doesn't spend much time in the workstand. Found a spare rim that'll replace it so I'll swap that over this weekend to be on the safe side.