Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

The Kinlin XR31t and XR22T off set rim brake disc brake rims are excellent. The later is the same price as the DT Swiss R460 well close. I much prefer them over the R460 rim brake or disc brake offering. they are rounder for a start and the offset rim means a longer lived wheel.

Did a set of the XR22RTS OCR rims today on Miche disc brake hubs with sapim force spokes.
Tension DS rear 1200N DS rear NDS tension 780N. On the front wheel this was reversed. That is what offset rims do.

Mdcc_tester that Mavic EN821 rim looks symmetric to me. Never had one. Ryde also do offset MTB rims that would be fine for CX tyres but they are even more expensive. I agree spending more on rims does not always equal better.

Mdcc_tester that Mavic EN821 rim looks symmetric to me.

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What do all the nice rims come in black only? They look so bad after getting mistreated by other bike rack users or several months of serious off-road use.

Any reason why the 485d wouldn't be a reasonable inexpensive alternative to the R460 to build up a rear fixed wheel (no braking surface necessary)? first came across it when searching for the #tester_approved RR585, but it was out of my budget, and now wondering whether there's much difference between the R460 and 485... (first wheel build project from scratch, so any other relevant thoughts welcome).

Any reason why the 485d wouldn't be a reasonable inexpensive alternative to the R460 to build up a rear fixed wheel (no braking surface necessary)?

It will be fine, not as nice as the 460 (485 is pin-jointed, 460 is sleeved) but cheaper, so that makes sense :-)

#tester_approved RR585

I've got an RR585 on my lo-pro, but the RR511 has superseded it as the #tester_approved option if you want a ~30mm deep DT rim. They're both welded, which is why they're expensive compared with pinned (cheap) or sleeved (mid-price) rims.

Excellent finally Mavic have created a rim I like.

finally Mavic have created a rim I like

I've had the first generation version of their FORE/UST/SUP rim (back then it was called D3.1) on my MTB for over a decade, they seem to be OK even without the offset :-)

Mavic are still being really slow about realizing the advantages of wider rims, they've actually gone backwards by offering only 19mm and 21mm internal, where the originals were 19mm (X3.1) and 23mm (D3.1)

https://r2-bike.com/

Dont order from the above company, they may come out the cheapest but they don't seem to have accurate stock information on their site.

When I ordered 12 days ago they were showing r460s in stock, I hadn't had an order update so followed up today to check if they had been dispatched. Got a reply saying they are not going to be available for another two weeks at the earliest. Then with post to UK I would be looking at approx 5 weeks from payment to delivery.

Righty ho, I need 1 1/2 pairs of wheels built up - 2 rear and one front
Bikes are vintage 70s steel (Mercian and a Roberts) so going to go for open pros on DA 7600 hubs unless tester has a strong opinion on the rims and an alternative suggestion

I'm all about durability than weight as they are for commuting and the odd trip to countryside and HHV.

Spoke pattern would be very boring but something tried and tested

All I need to do now is:
1) Buy a truing stand (Tester recommended one before Xmas which that fat twat Father Christmas did NOT bring me)
2) Figure out pattern, how to use a spoke calculator and buy spokes, nipples and rim tape
3) Find an afternoon free from wife and child - easier said than done
4) Build, fuck up and then call into the LBS asking to fix my fuck up

Simples!

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-D711SB.asp

What measurements from here go in a spoke calculator? Edd has the D712sb but not the front hub.

http://www.tririg.com/articles.php?id=2016_02_Knight_Wheels_65_95_Review

You should take the plunge, especially if it is track wheels.

As long as you know the hub measurements and rims ERD, you shouldn't have any issues.

I used an online calculator and that worked well for me, I have built this wheelset last weekend using a standard Minoura stand:
http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/281772/

3 cross track wheels are a great place to learn! No need to worry about dishing etc.

I'd recommend either a Archetype, or if you're set on low profile a TB14, both from H Plus Son. Cycle PS stocks them (the Archetypes definitely), if you wanted to have a look. They are much wider than Open Pros, so you get a much more plush ride, and potentially lower CRR too so should be faster

The dt mdcc tester rim. Is it cross compatible? Because I could rebuild my kinlins into those. And use them as winter and some off road.

Cx? Yeah, why wouldn't it be?

The dt mdcc tester rim. Is it cross compatible?

DT officially says the R460 doesn't do CX, but the R460DB does. They don't make the same distinction with the R23 wheels, which use essentially the R460 rim, where both the rim-brake and disc-brake versions are listed as suited to CX. From that I'd conclude that their list of recommended uses has overlooked the possibility that anybody would, in 2016, still be hand building CX wheels for use with rim brakes. Both versions of the RR511 are recommended for CX.

#marketing

I dunno. Maybe it's brittle. Maybe it's thinner extrusion. Maybe it just doesn't like dirt.

And the rr511 will match similarly to a 460, which would be replacing a kinlin?

I mean, if the 460 is the rim in the r23, I'll just use that. I've been smashing the most basic Shimano around for 3 years now. And that's lasted.

And the rr511 will match similarly to a 460

No, but you didn't specify which #tester_approved DT rim you were talking about :-)

Fair.

Are Sapim CX Rays worth an extra £55 over Pillar CN424? Light-as-possible aluminium good weather hill climb wheels: Ryde Pulse Sprint + Bitex hubs, 20/24.

Why not tubs?

I'd like to ride them all summer, take em to Majorca etc. Tubs just aren't practical.

Tubs just aren't practical.

If you want practical, just buy a pair of DT R24s

Naaah. I want enough practicality that I can descend down mountains and not have to sew up tubs. Fancy wheels built for purpose.

Those DT R24s are very nice I'm sure, but they're also almost half a kilo heavier than my proposed build. Normally weight doesn't matter, yadda yadda, but the only testing I do is at > 12% for < three minutes.

Tester, you must have a technidotal take on the Pillar CN424 no?