Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

The tubulars known to Europeans as 28" used to be called 27" over here, because you could use them in bikes made for 27×1¼ clinchers. A 28" clincher rim in English use usually refers to something now known as 635mm in ETRTO terms.

Now That's What I Call I Fairly Interesting Fact About The Conventions That Have Arisen Over Time To Describe Bicycle Tyre Sizing In Different Countries...34!

Hubs - provided I can establish that they are flip flop (as the MK1 is), are these the best option?

provided I can establish that they are flip flop (as the MK1 is)

Mk1 was supplied in double-fixed or fixed-free more or less at random. I don't think anybody has ever died from screwing a single freewheel onto a fixed hub, so I wouldn't bother too much whether they are flip-flop or flip-flip :-)

Ah yes. I fucked up on that front not so long ago.

To answer your question I have bought 4 of the MK2 and a some MK1's in the past, and the MK 2 all came as fixed/fixed. They look and feel really nice though, a fair bit nicer than the MK1's in my opinion (sturdier feel with fatter, better looking cones, smoother feeling bearings).

What spoke count should I go for?
Need a tough wheel set, that can take a bit of abuse racing.

Seen this, but 20/24. Is that enough or would 24/28 or 28/28 be better?
http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/kinlin-xc-279-wheelset

Cheers - I thought the MKII was sealed cartridges? I'm not sure if that precludes the presence of cones though, as I'm not too familiar with the insides of hubs.

sealed cartridges? I'm not sure if that precludes the presence of cones

He was using 'cones' as short hand for 'bearing retainer nuts'. Novatec run the bearing inner race directly on a shoulder on the axle, some cartridge bearing hubs do actually use something which looks kind of like a cone (but with parallel sides) to create the seat for the cartridge on a threaded axle, like this:

Yeah what tester said, they are sealed cartridges.

Skill - well I bought them last night anyway so bring on the build!

Now does anyone happen to know if the 130mm Halo Hex skewers will work on 120mm track hubs? Slippage won't be an issue as I have chain tugs, which will actually bulk out the dropout width, meaning a 130mm skewer might be fine...

Both my builds using the D712 and the D772 had the rear spokes as the same length. 294mm for D772 paired with Pacenti CL25 and 292mm for D712 with Open Pro

Ahhh!

That's a great relief. Thank you very much!

Your axles will be too long I think. If you cut them down maybe, assuming they're hollow.

assuming they're hollow.

Pictures look solid, text says hollow. As usual with PX, you never know what you're going to get until the postman arrives. If you're going to chop down hollow Novatec axles to fit skewers, you might as well tap them too and use screws instead.

1 Attachment

I've had this text/image discrepancy with PX before now and the bloke on the phone swore that the text is always correct.

Looks like some metalwork awaits! Fun!

Solid axles on those MKII's I'm afraid. I bet you laughed your ass off at that, the text on PX website is a "guide" and that's all!

Solid axles and several dents in the flange, one of which chipped the paint.

Good job PX.

Good job PX.

2x is the only lsving ypu can do. 3x simply wont work.

Yep, thanks, it's already been done 2x by +arup . It's all looking great.

need to rebuild the stock rear wheel that came with my giant defy. it was built with 3x over on the drivers side and laterial on the none drivers side, all my other wheels are the same DS and NDS, would you rebuild as original or both sides 3x over. what are the advantages or disadvantages of either option please?

Drivers side in the UK or on the continent?

If you're using the same hub you should probably do it the same.

I'm been riding my first wheel build (x3 32h Archetypes) for about 8 months now. It was a bit of a kludge job - no spoke tensioner, trued on frame with brake pads - but they've been running solid, smooth and true with no noise so far.

Thing is, I've just noticed the spokes don't all play the same note. There's a full tone difference in some. Should I be worried? Do I need to re-tension?