Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • I didn't say it was a problem, I said it because chrome bearings do not have good anti corrosion resistance when compared to stainless. I said it as I want to protect my investment.

    The irony probably being that in building these wheels, and my expectation that I want a decades use from them minimum, they will probably end up becoming obsolete purely by the presence of the centre lock disc interface.

  • they will probably end up becoming obsolete purely by the presence of the centre lock disc interface.

    Even if Shimano change their mind about disc mounting, I would expect a long period of aftermarket support for CentreLock from third party manufacturers just because the large installed base makes it a good business.

  • I need help.

    I've got:

    NOS 1996 Rear + Front Campagnolo Record 8 speed hubs
    Ambrosio Nemesis Tubulars

    I did a good bit of research to get my spoke length of

    36hole 3 cross

    Front
    298mm front

    Rear
    296mm driveside
    298mm

    I've built up the wheels A LOT. This spoke length is incorrect, I've come home and did more research on finding the correct spoke length and all I'm getting is the spoke lengths I have.

  • Show us the build where your spokes don't reach the holes (or overshoot them by miles). The lengths look about right, at what point during the build do you find that they are wrong?

  • No Pics, unfortunately. I take up the slack and the spokes reach there limit and the spokes haven't the slightest bit of tension. Rear Wheel is at least a centimeter off the centerline of the wheel and that's with the drive side at there limit and the non drive completely loose.

  • Measure everything yourself.

  • Given the wrong length spokes, bike shop error?

  • Nemesis ERD is 612. Your calculations seems fairly correct for the front wheel (297). The rear is a bit long... meaning 294-296 or 295-297 would be the length to go for

  • A simple thing to check, have you got the right spokes going to the right holes on the hub?
    It was brought up a couple of months ago by someone else too but cant find it now.
    The last wheel I built I got this wrong by one hole and it turned out exactly as you describe - half tight and half loose and no tension

  • It was brought up a couple of months ago by someone else too but cant find it now.

    3 months ago:
    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/128002/?offset=2500#comment11925196

  • I was sure there was a better way to explain it!

  • Can you guys tell me if those 26" Dodici rims are actually 650c? This would be going on a lopro…

    http://www.dodicicicli.com/product_info.php/dodici-high-profile-rims-p-272

  • Look at the rim width and the drillings they offer and see how likely you think that is :-)

  • They look like rims for the fixie crowds rather than MTBike rims, so one would assume they are 650C and take 571 tyres, rather than 559... but you never know. I would just give them a call and ask which tyres they take

  • They look like rims for HHSMTB/Polo, judging from the drillings. I'd be very surprised if they weren't 559

  • Not familiar with 571 or 559 sizing is that comparable to 23X--- 25X--- ?

    Maybe you guys can point me to a slightly affordable 650c rim online instead, preferably one I could build up on the website and have it arrived assembled. Trying to stay off the eBay.

  • Not familiar with 571 or 559 sizing

    ETRTO size 571 is 650C, 559 is MTB 26"

  • Maybe you guys can point me to a slightly affordable 650c rim online instead

    Mavic Open Pro comes in 650C, e.g. http://www.evanscycles.com/products/mavic/open-pro-650c-rim-32-hole-ec033256

  • preferably one I could build up on the website and have it arrived assembled

    This is the wheelbuilding thread, if you want ready built you'll be after the "Road Wheel recommendation" thread :-)

  • Thanks man! Non Londoner here, so BLB is fairly new to me as I'm located in the states. But it seems like they have a great selection of 650c rims!

    Thinking about going with the HSON because you can get the drilling in 32h. Im kind of straying away from a 36h standard lace pattern on the front for the sake of having a lopro.

    Am I looking at either a straight lace pattern or standard(regular?) pattern?

    Thanks for the patience!

  • If you're in the US, you should be able to get Velocity for less than having anything shipped from London. Unless you're a real porker (always a possibility with 'merkins :-)), 24H is plenty for a 650C DeepV front wheel, you can do it radial if your hubs is up to it or 2X otherwise.

  • Not quite a porker but when the money is right it sure feels tight! Don't mind the conversion rates of buying overseas, seems like you guys have all the fun stuff… : D

  • Chrome balls are more resistant to pitting than stainless balls you have to keep them greased though. grade 10 balls are the best to buy and hubs rebuilt with these feel like da or campagnolo record hubs. Hardress of the balls is not that relevant to hub wear as the cups and cones are harder. Also it is the higher the grade the rounder the balls and the smaller the variation in diameter in the batch and this makes a bigger difference. I use grade 10 chrome balls when servicing any hub the balls are cheap and given the low cost it is simply not worth skimping on.

    oh the thread has moved why does my browser always go to the penultimate page meaning I end up posting on what has already passed.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Posted by Avatar for eeehhhh @eeehhhh

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