Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

you are better off with a new spokey

↑This. They are cheap enough that it would be worth buying a new one for every build if necessary, in practice the actual amortised cost is about 10p per wheel.

Anybody want a set of Pacenti's laced to orange CK R45's?
Exactly four days and 435 km of alpine use.Built by Talbot Wheelworks.

Before you give up all hope...
I suffered similarly until someone one here reminded me of this:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/simson-tyre-mate-prod22353/

It's a little larger than I'd like but means I can set off without the fear of destroyed palms and confidence!

My first p***ture turned a 3 hour ride into a 5 hour 'ride'!

Not sure if this is answerable without seeing.

I had some play on my Stans Crest rims. These are a year old but only had 2000 road miles on them so used much.

Went to true it out and found a few spokes were super tight, once laterally true I found radial hop. Around the tight section, thus I think they were super tight to get rid of the hop.

I marked this section and then slackened off all the spokes an equal amount, so the thread was showing one loop and then re built. Again this section has hop, which seems odd.

Does it sound like the rim is off?
I never looked before at the spoke tension, but changed nothing since getting them.

Not sure if this is answerable without seeing.

I had some play on my Stans Crest rims. These are a year old but only had 2000 road miles on them so used much.

Went to true it out and found a few spokes were super tight, once laterally true I found radial hop. Around the tight section, thus I think they were super tight to get rid of the hop.

I marked this section and then slackened off all the spokes an equal amount, so the thread was showing one loop and then re built. Again this section has hop, which seems odd.

Does it sound like the rim is off?
I never looked before at the spoke tension, but changed nothing since getting them.

It sounds like they were badly built or the rim took a hit. Considering the minimum tyre size you can fit on a Crest is 35-40 mm, it's hard to think they have been hit so badly... that unless you did manage to fit road tyres on, which is something I have never managed to do with the Crest

My rims and hubs have cleared customs so I'm just about to order some spokes. How much stronger are the DT swiss III than double butted ACI? Will they result in a stronger wheel?

Lastly if they are worth the extra dollar where the best plave to get them? Rosebikes?

Alpine III don't make your wheels stronger, they make your spokes stronger. It's subtle but important difference. Spokes hardly ever break from a single overload, the rim or hub flange usually gives up first. The advantage is 30% more cross section at the point where spokes usually break from fatigue.

I think they are worth the money, but then I'm heavy and lazy.

Rosebikes is usually the best place to get them, but remember their prices don't include nipples.

It sounds like they were badly built or the rim took a hit. Considering the minimum tyre size you can fit on a Crest is 35-40 mm, it's hard to think they have been hit so badly... that unless you did manage to fit road tyres on, which is something I have never managed to do with the Crest

I can't remember the rim taking any hits. Nothing beyond dropping off a curb.

I've had them a year, so guess not much I can do about the build. But if it were just the build, surley when I loosed them all off and rebuilt the hop would not be in the same place/exist?
So I thought it might be a crap rim, hence appearing in the same place twice?

Many alu rims have a small dip at the join. It's normal and not a problem if it's ≤1mm. Trying to get rid of it with spoke tension only makes the wheel weaker due to uneven spoke tension around the wheel.

It's worse than that. Maybe when back from holiday I'll take them to Brixton C. and get someone to have a look at them.

but then I'm heavy and lazy.

I am both these things, so I'll probably get them ordered. Need to measure up the bits when they get here though.

I used the edd spoke length calculator. I get front of 299.2, rear of 297.4 & 295.9.

Is the general consensus to round up? In which case where else can I get the alpine 3s as rose don't stock a 300mm.

Round down.

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;search=dt+alpi;navigation=1;menu=1000%2C2%2C302%2C303;product=37579 have Alpine III in stock in 296, 298 and 300.

Does anyone have an opinion to offer on this kit from Bdop:

http://www.bdopcycling.com/DIY%20Alloy%20Wheels%2028-32.asp

I want to build a set of training wheels and would like to try wide rims, so I'm curious to know if novatec make a more robust hub than the one in the kit?

Is an A171/F172 combo likely to be any more reliable?

I'd rather shimano hubs, but I'm currently living in Taiwan, and using kinlin rims and novatec hubs is going to be the cheapest option.

I am using that combo for last 3K+ miles without any issues on training/commuter bike.

Round down.

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;search=dt+alpi;navigation=1;menu=1000%2C2%2C302%2C303;product=37579 have Alpine III in stock in 296, 298 and 300.

you seem to of rounded up here though. I am confuse

Does anyone have an opinion to offer on this kit from Bdop:

http://www.bdopcycling.com/DIY%20Alloy%20Wheels%2028-32.asp

I want to build a set of training wheels and would like to try wide rims, so I'm curious to know if novatec make a more robust hub than the one in the kit?

Is an A171/F172 combo likely to be any more reliable?

I'd rather shimano hubs, but I'm currently living in Taiwan, and using kinlin rims and novatec hubs is going to be the cheapest option.

It's a nice bundle... go for it

you seem to of rounded up here though. I am confuse

I was just pointing out that they have the stock. If your calculations are right, you need 298mm F and 296mm R, the 0.1mm round up from 295.9 will be fine.

Ah got you. I'll double check the calc when the bits arrive and I can measure them.

Any decent 27" (630) road rims out there?

These Schurmann http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&item=400430216824&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]are the right dimensions, but single-walled.

Exall XX19http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&item=231266845085&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER] look good, but are 700g.

Anyone know what I can use to remove sticky residue left by decal removal and other crap?

^Lighter fluid.

or white spirit.

To build powertap up myself, or to pay to have it done...

^^ & ^^^ I vaguely remember someone mentioning something from a chemists is all. But will give em a go, thanks.

A bike degreaser, e.g. a citrus degreaser, will do a good job.