Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Are you a twig?! ;)

Seriously though, you want light: the SL versions of those hubs you mentioned, search ebay. then kinlin tb20 for rims, there tubs though, but will ultimately lead to a lighter wheel compared to clinchers, plus they're 400grams, if you want clinchers though, stans 400's, the stans sponsored pro's and cx'ers all use these over the 340's, for a reason I imagine.

Then for spokes dt swiss revolution front and rear non-driveside with dt swiss comp driveside

Yeah I do resemble a twig... I'll look into the 400's thanks

Sam, I have the Stans 340 as 32... they are OK, but I would not bother with low spoke count with Stans... Seriously, Archetype is a better rim, Pacenti ST 23 are better rims

Hello, this isn't my wheel (built) but it's still a problem to do with it's construction I suppose. I don't know much at all about wheel building or hub maintenance because it's never been something I have done myself so I would really appreciate a bit of help.

I bought a dynamo wheel recently (yay) and it arrived in the post a 2 days ago. But it doesn't spin well. at. fucking. all. I understand dynamo hubs induce a bit of resistance but this isn't normal. When you hold the axle and spin it it rotates in a clunking fashion. Not audible but in it's movement. I have a tour in 2 weeks and I kinda want to fix it before then. I have ordered some cup wrenches in the hope they can fix it and have plenty of nice spanners of various lengths and sizes so that may help additionally.

Anything is better than nothing, advice wise.
Thanks

Holding a dynohub in your hand is going to feel clunky, the magnetic poles cause the resistance to vary in a wave pattern around the rotation. Put it in the frame and give it a spin, that will tell you more about whether it's really dodgy or just typical for a dynohub.
Also, even properly adjusted bearings can feel tight in the hand, since under service load they will have several hundred newtons of radial load, which opens up the clearances on most bearings.

Thanks, I will try and report back

ed's son hub felt grindy as anything just by hand but he seems to have had no issues with it

Any ideas for a bullet proof rim tape? I seem to have tracked a string of pinch flats down to cheap rim tape(I hope) but can't think what to replace it with. Are the cloth ones better? Schwallbe high pressure?

What's the cheapest way of bodging a truing stand for 150x12mm and 110x20mm thruaxles, given a reasonable conversion of "time spent bodging" to "money reasonably spent on a ready made product"?

I don't have a frame or fork to put these wheels in yet, and the rims are 80mm wide.

^^ Cloth rim tape supposed to be best bust I find it does degrade (water damage?) over time and can develop rough edges on eyelets and saw through your inners.

Pinch flats are different thing though and shouldn'y be affected by rim tape?

^^ Cloth rim tape supposed to be best bust I find it does degrade (water damage?) over time and can develop rough edges on eyelets and saw through your inners.

Pinch flats are different thing though and shouldn'y be affected by rim tape?

The tape on them was barely more than electrical tape that had no sticky, putting air in the tubes could push the tape into the holes in the rim and then it was just a matter of time. Think the tape ripped slightly in places from that too.

ed's son hub felt grindy as anything just by hand but he seems to have had no issues with it

My brand new son hubs also felt exactly the same (and got electrocuted again) compared to that one, so it's very much normal despite you (yes, you), claiming I fucked it up by washing it with the Smart Bike Washer.

Any ideas for a bullet proof rim tape? I seem to have tracked a string of pinch flats down to cheap rim tape(I hope) but can't think what to replace it with. Are the cloth ones better? Schwallbe high pressure?
Velox Fonde de Jante FTW.

I've not had a problem with it degrading, but it's cheaper than an inner tube so you could change it once a year and not feel the pinch.

GEDDIT!?!!?!

It's cheap enough on eBay, that I've not looked elsewhere; twin packs (you need one roll per wheel) are better value than individual rolls.

I once asked a wheelbuilder if he ever used plastic rim tape: "Yes. To hang rims up."

/csb

The Schwalbe high pressure stuff is good, tough and waterproof, just make sure you get the right width or it won't sit right in the rim.

while I'm here, looking for rims for a croix de fer build, I plan to be mostly running 30-35c tyres on it but may run as low as 28, so they need to be able to deal with high pressure, which means alot of 29er rims are out of the question.

Decent width
Disc, no braking surface
Black or grey
Not too heavy
32 hole drilling

Archetypes and Aerowarriors are on the short list, any other ideas? I've been put off Stans because they are supposedly a bugger to get tyres on and off of

I second the Velox Fonde de Jante. It's great stuff.

And I second the Schwalbe plastic stuff, never given me any trouble, unlike Velox

What's the cheapest way of bodging a truing stand for 150x12mm and 110x20mm thruaxles, given a reasonable conversion of "time spent bodging" to "money reasonably spent on a ready made product"?

I don't have a frame or fork to put these wheels in yet, and the rims are 80mm wide.

I've used a mallet shaft cut off through the hub and the pressure provided from my stand to keep it in place,worked for a couple of builds.

I felt smug with a stached pair of wheels paid less than half the cost of the rear hub.
The only down side were 2mm plain gauge spokes.

The tensionmeter seems to vouch for an equal applying of moderate tension,
my eyes are tired of trying to spot any untrueness anywhere.

I've only just spotted the rear lacing patern, it's 2 cross both sides!
Went to check on Sheldon ,2 cross lacing isn't mentioned.
Road use, rim brake, 32 spokes 70kg +10 on rear rack.
Can I roll for one or two weeks ?
My new commute from Monday is 60 miles, I would welcome lighter wheels.

Debunking Wheel Stiffness

Are "omega" rims any good? Have been looking at a cheapo wheelset to ride to work and back but not so cheap it's cheap and shit.

Which Omega rims?

They did clincher and tubulars, in box section or v.

I had a set of clincher v and they were pretty decent, classy looks too.

how important is rider weight to tension/stiffness on a wheel build?

how important is rider weight to tension/stiffness on a wheel build?

Absolutely critical. The service loading of a wheel is the starting point for its design, and rider weight is the main influence on service loading, except for the case of cargo bikes.

Which Omega rims?

They did clincher and tubulars, in box section or v.

I had a set of clincher v and they were pretty decent, classy looks too.

I ordered some anyways decided even if they are crap it's not a huge amount of money. After not much more searching I found they are on lots of the cheaper shimano wheels. Need to spend the weekend putting up some sort of storage to hang the spares from now.

http://www.grahamweighcycles.com/gwcshop/product.php?id_product=1368

^those Omega1 rims got me 1.000km to Prague last summer on tarmac and rougher roads (32 holes).