Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

^^^ I used some masking tape which I had lying around, which was a bit mucky, but insulating tape would be fine I'm sure.

I used revs on my 29er wheels. Just could'nt get the tension disc mount side, without mad wind-up (the spoke-prep doesnt help TBH). Gave up in the end, and went with super-comps on that side. Much better the wheels are for it too.

I rebuilt my fixed wheelset with cxp33, novatechs lightest track hubs, and Pillars answer to the rev. Manic wobbling of each nipple after tensioning and truing worked fine. Great wheelset for the moneys.

That masking/insulating tape thing is pretty wasteful and time-consuming. I found a much better way. You use one of those small bulldog clips with some ShoeGoo added so it doesn't slip on the spoke and Bob's yer uncle.

I've built the wheels now and didn't bother with any kind of spoke flag - as MDCC suggested on the previous page, it's actually pretty easy to feel and correct the wind up by hand.

I'm building the following wheel and would like to order the spokes. the difference between the right and left side is only two mm can I order the same length spoke and round one side up by 1mm and the other side down? ie for the 3x build below can I just order the spokes all 284 mm?

• Shimano Dura-Ace FH-7402/ 7403 8S

• Mavic CXP14 (ERD is Mavic's Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples)

• Effective rim ø: 587

• Offset spoke bed: 0

              **Spoke length
  [B]for 36 spokes **[/B]
  

3x
LH 282.7 RH 284.3

Would say you'll probably be ok there, but I am no expert ;)

They're deep rims, so with decent rim tape it won't matter if there's a bit of threaded spoke protruding above the nipples into the rim. I'd round up to 283 and 285 personally. But I've also built many rear wheels with a uniform spoke length. hangs head in shame

Yeah as above the ideal is to get the right spoke length but it can be done with uniform spokes.

If you do have to use same length spokes these araya nipples can help a bit as they have more thread to work with when buying the 14mm and 16mm ones (i.e. they're not just same amount of thread with an extra sleeve as other longer nipples can be). Good luck :)

P.S. I've used the 14mm to build successfully with a similar discrepancy and the wheel's been going strong for 2 years, it's true and never had nipple failure. I haven't tried the 16mm's though.

http://www.rocknrollbikes.com/bmx/hubs-spokes-nipples/araya-alloy-nipples-14-gauge-x-12-14-16mm-long.html#Colour%20Option=Red&Length=12%20mm.

Need some further wheel building advice - this is for fast touring wheels (no racing)

I intend to go on some long, trans-european rides, sort of credit card touring, with not more than a change of clothes and a very light sleeping bag.

I weigh 85 kg. I want to build Mavic CXP14's onto Dura ace 7410 series hubs, using Sapim CX ray spokes.

I have the option of building the front wheel either 32 or 36 hole, as I have a spare rim and hub in either spoking.

this is what I'm thinking:
Front: 32 hole, radial
Rear: 36 hole, Radial non drive, 2x drive.

would I be better going full 3x? I want as racy a wheelset as possible, I know CXray's are very strong - but expensive, so I want to get it right first time!

Thanks

Call me old fashioned but I'd just go 36hole 3cross pattern on both if I was touring. They'll be strong, easy to build and true yourself, and if anything major happens on the road easy for an LBS in any small town to help out. But there might be others with more insight into this....

Don't forget, with Mavic CXP-14 rims you'll need 16mm nipples and slightly shorter spokes than most calculators tell you.

With the cost of CX-Rays, it's an expensive mistake if you get it wrong.

so instead of rounding up from Lenni's calculator I should round down?

I just bought the spokes but should be able to amend the orderif I email them asap

Cheers guys

Yep, longer nipples and shorter spokes.

You'll need to subtract 3-4mm with those rims.

But double check the calculations and confirm with your builder, supplier or yourself for peace of mind.

Also make sure you can exchange the spokes if necessary.

I want to build Mavic CXP14

Stop!

If you're shelling out >£100 on spokes, wouldn't it be a good idea to get some more suitable rims? For your purposes, a 23mm rim (usual suspects; Mavic A719, etc.) built with ACI round spokes would be a better use of the money, even if we discount the rims you currently own to zero.

As it's going on a early 90's steel road bike I wanted to use the CXP 14 rims for the build, as they look the business, but I've started think about velocity aeroheads to save weight.

Bear in mind I'm not building up a tourer, I just want to do some long rides on it. Most of the time this will be my only road bike for speeding through the Essex countryside...

And your life would still be improved by getting aboard the wide rim bandwagon.

por que?

Comparing 23c tyres on 23mm rims against 25c tyres on 20mm rims, the modern method typically gives:
Better ride and handling
Lower rolling resistance
Less drag
Same weight

Looking to build up a Dura Ace HF 7600 36h front for city riding, got the hub for a steal on ebay. From the above am I to assume Velocity A23 are my best bet for rims? Open Pros seemed like the obvious choice, and TB14s are also on the shortlist, but I had considered the velocity. What are the best choice spokes on a budget?

What are the best choice spokes on a budget?

ACI from Cyclebasket

If you're spending that much on hubs and rims I'd get DT Comp. I've had ACI spokes fatigue fail on a couple of wheels, one in about three months and one within about 18 months. All the wheels I've built with DT are still going strong.

ACI are so much cheaper I can understand the temptation, but it's not that big a saving on a decent wheelset with ~£40 rims.

if you cant afford decent spokes with your budget get rid of the 7600 hub and use any front hub, shimano 105 is a great choice.
I prefer sapim race(cheaper) to dt comp but usually use dt champ on my budget wheels

usually use dt champ on my budget wheels

Between DT plain guage and ACI butted, I'd take the ACI every time.

Never had any problems with ACI, and some reputable wheel builders rate them at least as high as DT. DT pricing includes significant brand tax; their Aerolites are 50% more expensive than CX-Rays and nobody could really think that Belgian spokes were inferior to Swiss ones.

I buy DTchamp fro9m rosebikes, postage is cheap too.

http://www.roseversand.com/article/dt-swiss-champion---the-traditional-spoke-47697/aid:47702

3.90euro for 20

sapim make better nipples

A little feedback please:)

After finally killing my old rear touring wheel (CXP33 on Ambrosio) have just bought an Ultegra hub (36 hole) and Mavic A 719 rim for decent discounts.
I've built a fair number of wheels over the years, mostly 3x, 2x and radial.
Now I'm interested in trying 3x drive side with 2x off side and possibly running say Sapim Strong on DS and Race on OS.
From various reading I'm led to believe this should help even out the tension imbalance and make a pretty strong wheel...

And thoughts, different suggestions please?

Cheers