Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Just about to order some spokes for my wheel-build (finally), but being confused by the DT Swiss spoke calc. Its giving a 'precise' spoke length of: 287.90 mm and then recommending 286mm. Would 288 not be much closer to whats required?

^^ For everyone who says it's fine there will be someone else who has seen/heard of a Campy hub failing when laced radially. It's your warranty and dental work.

Hello,
I'm building a wheel set on campagnolo pista hubs laced to mavic open pro.
I want the front wheel laced to radial, but the menual says not to lace radial on campagnolo pista hubs.
Thoughts on the matter?

Yes, don't lace radial if the manual says so... seems pretty obvious. You invalidate the warranty.
If you don't care about the warranty then you can take a punt, just keep the tension within reason (800-900N at the very top) and inspect frequently for cracks.

PS: a crack will always develop perpendicular to the load (90 degrees to the spoke)

Don't lace it radical, build it 3 cross if you can.

Just about to order some spokes for my wheel-build (finally), but being confused by the DT Swiss spoke calc. Its giving a 'precise' spoke length of: 287.90 mm and then recommending 286mm. Would 288 not be much closer to whats required?

Did you plot 14 mm nipples by any chance?

Just about to order some spokes for my wheel-build (finally), but being confused by the DT Swiss spoke calc. Its giving a 'precise' spoke length of: 287.90 mm and then recommending 286mm. Would 288 not be much closer to whats required?

Did you plot 14 mm nipples by any chance?

Yes? Do they just give 2mm more wiggle room?

1mm according to roger musson

Okay that makes sense I guess

go with 288mm, but 12mm nipples, that would put your calculated length at 288.9mm and a 0.9mm round down is probably optimal

Since the stocking of FLO30 24h rims didn't complete in their Order12 and I find Order13 too far away, I turn to the few 20h rims they have left and think of building a couple of radially laced front wheels with CX-rays on something cheap and sensible like the Novatech 24/28/32.

Where can find some 20h (high flange) hubs (silver/black) radial compatible for 20-40£ each?

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp

Little on the steep side when the cost of Danish tax is applied, but still cheap for an excellent hub though, thanks.

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp

Deary me, that website...

Deary me, that website...

Maybe not the most glamorous design, but it is very informative and instead of the usual manufacturers blurb about how great the products are, they actually provide some useful information, like all the measurements for the hubs they sell. I find it a great site!

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp

Once again thanks for the link - glad to be moving forward in the proces, which leads to a new question that someone may have an answer to.

I can choose between the track nut version and the allen key/QR version of the hub. Do I make a fool out of myself selecting the track nut version, since the drag of a nut seem a lot more, than the smooth allen key finisher? (I know the aero benefits of such a low-cost wheel isn't anything to brag about in the first place, but I don't want to look too stupid when it's finished by neglecting a substantial drag-factor if I have the chance to avoid it). Lots of love.

I've got the allen key finished hubs from there. I don't know how much difference it will make, I just prefer the look of the allen bolts (and I have some heavy duty chain tensioners built into my track ends so tightening isn't as much of an issue).

Do I make a fool out of myself selecting the track nut version, since the drag of a nut seem a lot more, than the smooth allen key finisher? (I know the aero benefits of such a low-cost wheel isn't anything to brag about in the first place, but I don't want to look too stupid when it's finished by neglecting a substantial drag-factor if I have the chance to avoid it). Lots of love.

The stock Novatec Allen-Key screws and washers aren't much smaller than track nuts, although getting the axle with tapped ends does allow you to use a nice low-profile countersunk screw and washer set. Even with different screws and washers, you're only looking at about 0.1s per kilometre, and while that is forever in an Elite level 1km TT, you wouldn't be starting with a wire spoked wheel if it was that important :-)

All too kind, all of you.

Cost of 1 front wheel (incl. postage, tax, customs to Denmark):
1x FLO30 20h rim = 90£ [FLOcycling]
20x Sapim CX-Ray silver 262mm = 38£ [Bike24]
20x DT Swiss Standard Brass silver 2,0mm = 2£ [Bike24]
1x NOVATEC A165SB Silver = 46£ [bdopcycling]

Total of ≈176£

Wouldn't it just be simpler to buy a complete Flo30 front wheel?

What width of tyres shud be run to keep the awro advantage of thw flo30s?

Generally something which doesn't extend past the rim width, so I'd probably go with 23s, which are going to come up a bit wider than 23mm (assuming they are actually 23mm on the old default 20mm rim) and will roll like 25s.

Wouldn't it just be simpler to buy a complete Flo30 front wheel?

Yes - the price for a complete wheel seems to low to justify a home build.

^^^ flo say most aero is 23c