Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I don't think you'd be able to do that. Spokes from two adjacent holes on the same side of the flange wouldn't cross properly - you'd be bending the thickest part of the spoke very sharply, near to the elbow bend, so you'll get a really awkward double bend, with a load of pressure on the spoke that passes on top. I reckon it would weaken the wheel quite a bit.

Have you tried visualising a 4-cross pattern? Do the spokes cross the adjacent head?

Yeah, I agree about the pressure points, don't think it's a good idea.

Standard 4x (what I use at the moment), which leaves some fairly big gaps.

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Mm, barely any different to 3-cross and with more extreme entry angles to the rim holes.

Another potential issue with crow's foot lacing is the shorter straight-pull spokes are going to run at a different tension, so even when they're producing equal force to the cross spokes they'll still make a different tone when plucked - depends how it's built I guess, but I'd find it a faff to re-true a wheel with spokes on the same side of the wheel not meant to be making the same tone.

Radial is the best for no gaps, then 1x, then 2x etc.

But of course strength is also an issue, so it's compromise between one and the other.

I'm looking for that magic spoke pattern that does both.

I'm looking for that magic spoke pattern that does both.

yeah, with 48 spokes that wouldn't be a problem. But I've only got 36

wheel building North London

Hi Looking for someone to build me up a pair of wheels in North London. I have used Arup before and he was great but he is down south now, so bit of a mission. Anyone anywhere North of the river able to build up a pair of open pros/goldtec

Quick question: if building a front wheel with radial spokes, do the spoke heads need to on the outside of the hub flange, the inside, alternate or does it not matter?

Ta.

Quick question: Should cycle helmets be compulsory?

Edited to reduce controversy.

Ok, I get it :-)

I think there probably is a correct answer for any given set of components, but it relies on a very detailed analysis of the stress distribution.The properly correct solution is to use hubs designed specifically for radial spoking to a specific rim, to ensure so far as possible that the load path is directed along the axis of the spoke all the way from the nipple seat to the hub shell.

wheel building North London

Hi Looking for someone to build me up a pair of wheels in North London. I have used Arup before and he was great but he is down south now, so bit of a mission. Anyone anywhere North of the river able to build up a pair of open pros/goldtec

Give it a go, I've built my wheel set goldtec/tb-14 and it's super satisfying knowing you just saved £50. Admittedly I couldn't get it perfectly true but other than that, bang on, an unless you're mechanically challenged then it doesn't pose too much of an issue!

Hey there,
Would like some advice re: some wheels I bought from here a few months back (not ridden them yet as they are for a project I've not completed) They are velocity rims on profile hubs...anyway, when I spin them in my hands, I can feel a gentle jumping. Can anyone explain to me what this is / if it's going to be an issue when riding / what I could do about it..?

Thanks a lot,
meds

have you mounted the tyre and inner tube ?
even something like the hole for the valve means removing some metal thus making it slightly non symetrical

if you have the inner tube and tyre on then the valve it's self is quite a lot of extra weight at one point on the circumference thus giving it that irregular feel

No that's just spinning the bare rim, so could be as simple as that eh? I was wondering if the guy (who said he'd never jumped them) had been telling porkies and had squashed the rim slightly. However, the jump is only quite faint, so maybe it will balance itself out with tube/tyre on.

Thanks for that.

Considering selling them you see, and I hate being vague about description/prices, so your feedback will help if it comes to putting them up.

even though there isn't a lot of metal involved there will be some weight differences round the wheel the point where it is welded may have an extra weight of metal

the only real way to tell is to mount them in truing stand or in a fork and try and see if they are out of line.
once they are on the bike tyres and tube mounted plus person riding bike the small (?) bump should resolve itself ... unless of course it is truly out of whack

Give it a go, I've built my wheel set goldtec/tb-14 and it's super satisfying knowing you just saved £50. Admittedly I couldn't get it perfectly true but other than that, bang on, an unless you're mechanically challenged then it doesn't pose too much of an issue!

to be honest this is what I am thinking of doing. I might get a truing stand and my mate might get a spoke tensioner and we gonna build some muthuf*cking wheels.

Bicycle wheels are nearly always out of balance, due to the valve, rim joint, tolerances etc. It doesn't matter, because they rarely go over 500rpm, so the imbalance doesn't generate noticeable forces in service.

TB 14 has a badge at the valve hole that counter balances the extra weight at the welded joint, feels nice when you spin the wheel when holding it but makes zero difference on the road.

cheers chaps, you comments have put my mind at ease.

I was going to polish a cxp 33 rim recently and noticed a strange gap at the joint, its ugly and I dont know why mavic cant make it smooth all around, you can see it in this photo, the stickers cover some of it, it looks strange up close and stops at the brake track where the joint is invisible.
mine is the 2012 model

It's where they've machined the weld down. The brake track machining is done afterwards which is why it disappears there. Nothing to worry about.

It's where they've machined the weld down. The brake track machining is done afterwards which is why it disappears there. Nothing to worry about.

it just looks like lazy design