Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I built these the other day, only had the help of sheldon brown, not perfect but pretty happy with them.

got a very slight 'bobble' not sure what you call it, goes up n down slightly when you spin the front, only by like 1mm though.

any tips to avoid this?

where the bobble is tighten the spoke, i'm assuming it's just radially untrue, best thing to do is go to the lbs/wheelbuilder and get them to look it over, then you can see where you've gone wrong and learn for next time

what are they though, tb14's to surly??? look real nice with the black to grey

Yeah, TB14's, Surly hub from Hubjub, i originally ordered silver and they sent black, the front is a shimano 105 with a zip track skewer, match quite nicely.

Might ride them for a few weeks then get my lbs to check it over

It's normal to have a small vertical bobble at the seam where the rim extrusion is joined. It's more pronounced on certain rims than on others (some rims are rounder than others as well). You can try and pull it out with the spoke tension, and you should if it's a long dip/bump, but if it starts affecting the evenness of the spoke tension it's maybe better to just leave it. A short ~1mm vertical bobble in that one spot is ok, you won't feel it.

The important thing is that the rim is accurately centred around the hub, i.e. it's not going up and down all the way round the rotation.

I've got a few wheel building books on pdf, was wondering if any one could add any good ones to the list?

Have:
Gerd Schraner - Art Of Wheel Building
Roger Musson - The Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding
Jobst Brandt - The Bicycle Wheel
David C R Hunt (of DCR Wheels, do pretty good prices on spokes and nipples too) - Bicycle Wheelbuilding - The Manual

On all my builds I've used the DT Comps. I'm planning another at the moment. I did not the above info about the DT Alpine spokes. Rather than a full wheel of Alpines would it make sense to use Alpines on the rear drive side and Comps on the non-drive side?

Found this on DCR Wheels website (is in his book too) -
"Another solution which I sometimes use is to have different spokes on the drive side to the non-drive side.
The non-drive side will commonly use the same spokes as used on the front wheel.
The drive side will have heavier duty spokes and importantly spokes with less flex.
This means that the spokes flex more evenly on both drive side and non-drive side.
A light duty build could use Sapim Laser spokes for the front and non-drive side and Sapim Race for the drive side.
Heavier duty could be Sapim Race for front and non-drive side and Sapim Strong for the drive side.
You could also use D-Light spokes with Race spokes or Laser spokes to achieve similar slightly varying results.
Many wheelbuilders neglect such detail, although it is important for a well balanced wheel.
Moreover it does not need to add considerably to the cost of the build.
An important factor to consider before doing this is that sometimes a larger spoke elbow (such as the Strong spoke) will sit badly in a hub. Considering the quality of all Sapim spokes, most wheelsets can be laced with the same spokes throughout."

It's normal to have a small vertical bobble at the seam where the rim extrusion is joined. It's more pronounced on certain rims than on others (some rims are rounder than others as well). You can try and pull it out with the spoke tension, and you should if it's a long dip/bump, but if it starts affecting the evenness of the spoke tension it's maybe better to just leave it. A short ~1mm vertical bobble in that one spot is ok, you won't feel it.

The important thing is that the rim is accurately centred around the hub, i.e. it's not going up and down all the way round the rotation.

I really doubt i'll notice it, unless i'm on a velodrome or something, with the tyre on i can't even find it.

all the spokes should be evenly tensioned....

I seem to have the spokes on one side of my wheel a bit long. I've taken it apart and rebuilt thinking I might have mislaced, but it looks like it's a problem with the parts, not the user for once.

I can't get the disc side to tension up without bottoming out the threads. It's a Novatec 711 front disc hub on an Open Pro, 32h 3 cross. I've measured and the dimensions of all the parts are the exact same as listed on the EDD spoke length calculator, which gives 292.3 left and 295.5 right side. I rounded down to 292 and 294, but the lefts will not play ball. Could this be down to the Open Pro 602/605 ERD question?

I've measured...Open Pro 602/605 ERD question?

If you've measured, then surely you answered that question.

A&P, I realise I'm a week late, but I had that up and down with my TB14s too, and they were trued by a shop after I had laced them up.

If you've measured, then surely you answered that question.

I got 605 consistently around the rim, but can't help but think that 602 would have given me the right length spokes whilst these are too long.

Is the dish OK? Did you allow for spoke stretch in the calculation? Left spokes on that hub will have about 50% more tension than right spokes, so they will stretch more. If your calculation doesn't account for that, then rounding down from 292.3 to 292 is unlikely to be enough, whereas rounding down by 1.5mm on the lower stressed right spokes will be.

Spoke stretch could be the culprit. I'm using double butted ACIs, so there should be more stretch.

I've just done the rear and the 292s seem to be working fine.

A&P, I realise I'm a week late, but I had that up and down with my TB14s too, and they were trued by a shop after I had laced them up.

was it then sorted?

If there's up and down, then you're not building the wheel correctly, get a LBS to finish it off, it's still cheaper than a wheelbuild by them.

I want to build a Mavic Open Sport in silver on a silver shimano road hub. This is to match the rear, which has a Tiagra 4600 hub.

I've found that as a pre-built M:part wheel for £52 (out of stock) at singletrackbikes, or they have a Tiagra hub and Open Sport rim for £35 (free P&P over £30), then I can get 32 Sapim leader spokes from Spa Cycles for £13.60 inc postage.

STB's website seems to use the same software as Spa, but it's dog slow, the search sucks, they only have a "Wheel Spares" category, rather than "spokes and nipples" and they've listed all of Shimano's wheel-specific spare spokes separately >:-(

Is there anywhere which sells spokes (singly or such that I can buy fewer than 40) and that rim and a cheap silver Shimano road hub, and can post them all to me for £40-45? Preferably without their website driving me mad.

Check rosebikes for decent wheelset.

For £45? Don't think selling the rear wheel will raise enough to cover the extra outlay for an equivalent new pair.

Spa cycles sell spokes in 6s I think.

Pretty good prices generally.

Website will drive you mad though.

^ Not as mad as Cyclebasket.

Amen.

I love Cyclebasket's price, delivery and service but their website is awful, especially for spokes. Packs of 20/10/1, and you can only choose 5 of any kind, so if you want 36, you have to choose 1 pack of 20, 1 pack of 10, 1 single spoke, then go into your basket and increase the number of single spokes to "6". That's fine if you're buying one length only, but when you're buying in bulk to save on shipping it can make you loopy.

Spa cycles sell spokes in 6s I think.

Did a Spa order last week, they sell spokes singly, 30p each for Leaders, 45 for Race (2.0-1.8 DB) 55p for DT's 2.0-1.8 DB Competitions...

They don't have the Open Sport though, and getting only the rim from elsewhere is likely to mean higher postage costs.

Parker were always good for Open Sports, and you could usually get free delivery, but they've shut down, sadly.

For £45? Don't think selling the rear wheel will raise enough to cover the extra outlay for an equivalent new pair.

Spa cycles sell spokes in 6s I think.

Pretty good prices generally.

Website will drive you mad though.

^ Not as mad as Cyclebasket.

Cyclebasket: £45.82 inc postage... :-)

Spa, Cyclebasket and STB all use the same software, but STB's seem to be using the cheapest hardware possible and have misorganised their inventory.

Need to replace a bladed spoke on my Easton Ea90 aero rear. Mixed info on goggle about if they're cx or cx-ray. Anyone in the trade know tru-fact or should I just get in touch with Easton?