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No idea, I just think they look daft.
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Any idea which of these campy/fulcrum magnetic inserts is suitable for using with a regular brass Sapim nipple? None of them list the dimensions or threading. I originally thought to just clip the end of a spare spoke and use that but I tested the spoke with a neodymium magnet and there was very low attraction - def not enough strength to work through the rim.
Edit: found it, light bicycle recommend part UT-WH160.
The type of threaded screw we use is the Campagnolo (model number UT-WH160) nipple insert for nipples with 2mm diameter thread
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never had a problem with alloy nipples with mtb wheels.
Smaller sized rims are fine with lighter spokes.
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Aksiums are shit for that, the rears all drift to the side as tension seems too low on NDS spokes, then they seize before people realise and you can't fix them without stupid Mavic parts which haven't been the easiest to come by of late. I don't think they're designed for British weather or people who wash their bike too much.
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It's all some people do to some of them I think, ruins the poor things.
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When i tell people that they look at me like I'm from mars. Im thinking about giving my commuter its annual wash.
Mavic spares, that a happy Christmas from mavic. Although the issue is more those willing to stock them. If you start stocking spokes and nipples you open yourself up to "how much" and then get asked to do a quote for the rebuild and then thats too much and you never sell the buggers.
With wheels if a spoke pops it not worth replacing the spoke. As one customer found out another goes and it up for a rebuild which is what i told him last time.
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Can the hive mind help please? I bought these Campag Pista hubs off an online dealer and am half way through stripping and refubing the bearings.
I went on to Sheldon's website looking for some hub dimensions in readiness for building. However, Sheldon lists slightly different dimensions for record and nuovo record rears. The hubs were advertised as nuovo record but i don't know how you tell the difference. Any ideas? They should look nice with polished silver rims
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I went on to Sheldon's website looking for some hub dimensions in readiness for building
Always take your own measurements. Sheldon might be right, he often was, but there's no point taking even the small risk that he was wrong when you have the actual hubs in your hands.
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Campag Pista hubs...advertised as nuovo record
AFAIK, there is no such thing. The 1036 Record hubs were in the catalogue from the 60s until the mid 80s when C-Record hubs replaced them.
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Bring back the 30h bike wheel!
Pointless up front, but a 30H rear done 2:1 would be better than a 32H with 16 spokes on each side 🙂
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Pointless up front
Funky lacing is good enough for me! :)
a 30H rear done 2:1 would be better than a 32H with 16 spokes on each side
Ok, lighter & stronger then - thinking about it, 2:1 is the setup on Campag factory rear wheels isn't it (not 30h though) - quite a fan of those, until something needs replaced...
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2:1 is the setup on Campag factory rear wheels isn't it
Yes, among others. There are several less shouty options in 16:8 which use generic spokes.
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Ok, lighter & stronger then - thinking about it, 2:1 is the setup on Campag factory rear wheels isn't it (not 30h though) - quite a fan of those, until something needs replaced...
It is, but there are plenty of ways of doing triplet 2:1 lacing without buying proprietary parts. My favourite to date is AForce AL33 rims on Tune Mag150 hubs, although that's not what you'd call a budget option.
I'm not sure how well triplet lacing works with disc brake hubs though. Badly, I suspect, unless you have a very over-engineering hub shell to transfer the braking forces to the DS side of the hub. Given that the NDS spokes are pretty much by definition going to be radially laced. Lacing 8 spokes in a cross pattern strikes me as challenging.
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The fulcrum 2:1 laced disc wheels I used to have popped a spoke going very fast down a hill into Tintagel under braking. I was probably carrying too much weight but it was a right pain in the arse and I ended up having to get a lift off some really weird guy in a van the next morning who had driven into the campsite, reversed into something, then picked a different pitch upon his arrival.
They also used straight pull, round spokes which is stupid.
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Thanks for the help. Both hubs rebuilt, when I'm out of self isolation I'll sort some calipers out and measure them up...
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Those sound nice - is there a wheel pron thread on here?
The Zonda disc wheels use an asymmetric 2:1 pattern & are apparently fairly robust - a friend has them & has never had to touch them, he's not the heaviest though & I can imagine if a spoke went it would be taxi time
@snottyotter the Zondas I had were quite old & ever so slightly out of true - bike shop had a quick go & the nipples were reluctant to move so I learned to live with it instead of risking half of them disintegrating, great wheels when they're in good nick though - once they start needing regular maintenance it's a losing battle unless you want to start chucking ££ at them... probably like all factory wheels, although I had a pair of fulcrum 7 which I think had j bend spokes & regular nipples & they were bomb proof
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I have to echo a love of Zondas. I acquired a set in an online Christmas day sale a few years back ridiculously cheaply. They sat gathering dust for a couple of years before I put them on my Merckx Corsa Extra...what a wheel! In terms of bang per buck from a factory wheel they are right up there.
If i was still in to buying wheels instead of building them this would be my go to wheel for sure.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233759673587
Pair of 32h track hubs with sealed bearings for £30
snottyotter
Yemble
thecycleclcinic
Netakure
Skülly
EcuriePeril
gbj_tester
Gaston
mcJ78
Brommers
Vince-
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... for my Burning Man coffin shaped fixie soap box racer obvs ⚰️