Fuji Track / Fuji Track Pro / Fuji Track Classic

No one seems to make one in 111mm mate...

Phil Wood comes in 111mm. Plus you can adjust it 2mm either way.

http://www.hubjub.co.uk/philwood/philwood.htm

It's not an ISIS bb though Archi. Do keep up. :-)

My bad. Too early on a Friday for brain to engage ;)

Best advice then is to buy a crank that'll fit the Phil Wood BB :)

Good plan. Dump the useless ISIS rubbish, no-one does BBs with the right axle length. ;p

It just needs a spacer.

Dovoneil- 'tis the conclusion that I have come to.

Or in any case it's the most logical first step.

I shall try to pick one up at lunch, then barbecue with one hand and pull cranks and BB with the other after work.

Ride over to Acton and I'll give you one and whack it on.

Ride over to Acton and I'll give you one.

What a kind gesture ;)

Jealousy sucks

Jealousy sucks

Do you have her phone number?

On a more general note why would FSA have made cranks for a 41mm chainline?

I was under the impression that the majority of track hubs where designed for 42mm (+ a bit, and a margin of error).

i.e. am I missing the simple option of replacing my Formula hubs with ones designed for a 41mm chainline?

This thread is cool...

As well as a square taper BB, why don't you try supergluing the chainring to some match sticks on the spider so as to push it out further. This combined with with dudicious angle grinding of your hub and cog will make your chainline perfecto! :)

FSA w/ 108mm should give schweet chainline btw. You need to get an inverse shim on that back wheel.

FSA w/ 108mm should give schweet chainline btw. You need to get an inverse shim on that back wheel.

Can you send over one of your midget butlers with a tray of inverse shims please?

They're all knackered from last night.. but I can free up a couple of flying monkeys.

Bonza, I'll get the lads in stores to put some bananas on the window sill.

HIPPY IS OUR LEADER!

Having done a little more Googling this morning it would appear that the FTP '09 shipped with a 113mm axle as the track standard 108mm made the crank arms hit the chainstays.

I can find no reference to this regarding the '08, but I don't know (beyond the seatpost) what the difference between the two frames is.

If the frames are pretty much identical bar the seatpost it would suggest that the chain ring is too far out- which is pretty much contradicted by the collective opinion of those who have seen the bike or the photo's of it.

However, returning to the bike with my ruler I can confirm that he chainline at the rear is spot on 42mm.

Chainline on the front is more difficult as assigning a centre point to a white tube is tricky (for me anyway).

Hippy- joking aside I presume your FSA Vigorelli's were fine, gave a decent chainline?

Chainline on the front is more difficult as assigning a centre point to a white tube is tricky (for me anyway).

Measure from the outside of the seat tube.

Then get the seat tube diameter (using vernier caliper) and add on half of this.

Done!

Ok, £18.50 later at lunch time I am now the proud owner of some vernier calipers.

Width of seat tube 33.5
1/2 of above figure 16.75
To chainring midpoint from outside of seat tube 56
Chainline 39.25
Dropout width 8.5
To sprocket midpoint from outside of dropout 26.5
From inside of dropout 18
Width of dropouts 120
Chainline 42

Which gives an overall chainline discrepancy of 2.75mm.

Swapping to a 113mm bottom bracket should push my chainline out by 2.5mm, which should solve this problem.

So that's what I'll do- but the question remains why does this crankset not deliver a decent chainline?

The (very cheap) hub does, the (very expensive) crankset does not.

It make no sense to me.

i'm afraid to post in this thread, but if i follow the logic of this gang bang corrrectly, shouldn't you be adding 16.75 to 56? I mean you're trying to quantify the displacement from the center line, right?

i've literally never measured chainline so i don't know. I just eyeball it and move the hub, space the BB, or whatever's easiest/possible.

Anyway go to town.

I suspect Dammit used the calipers to measure from the chainring to the far side of the seat tube...

Correct.

Telepathic WIN

Swapping to a 113mm bottom bracket should push my chainline out by 2.5mm, which should solve this problem.

So that's what I'll do- but the question remains why does this crankset not deliver a decent chainline?

The (very cheap) hub does, the (very expensive) crankset does not.

It make no sense to me.

It's the length of the bottom bracket axle that is key for getting the right chainline for the chainring. In this instance Fuji, if it was OTP, or Edwardes if they built the bike, fitted a BB that had too short an axle. Simple.

It was fun finding this out though. :-)