Fuji Track / Fuji Track Pro / Fuji Track Classic

How many fucking feet do you have>?>??>?>

How many fucking feet do you have>?>??>?>

I have about 300 fucking feet.

Same issue I had on a single speed. Bottom bracket change fixed it for me but look for any spacers on the rear hub.

Thats too many shoes for one man.

On a serious note, is your rear wheel dead straight? I occasionally get mine on a bit crooked and the chain looks a bit kinked in the middle, obviously as it tracks from the sprocket at a different angle to the chainring... it needs to align somewhere (though for me its usually right near the sprocket.

Other than this, Im out.

bottom bracket is too short

I have a 1mm BB spacer if you wants? They go in between the BB shell and the BB cup mpoving the BB outwards. If you need more they only cost about £3 each.

Easy peasy fix.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=17701&src=froogle

Why would Fuji specify the wrong bottom bracket?!

It makes no sense- FSA Carbon track pro cranks and BB, formula fixed/fixed wheels, surely it should be inline- 42.5mm is the standard is it not?

It's just wierd, the chain goes (if you are standing behind the bike) diagonally left from the sprocket, then goes diagonally right about midway through it's length back to the chain ring.

Meh.

Aroogah, no worries. I have safely digested all the info and am wiser for it. Its nice to know there are some helpful forummers about. I have brought a pair of wheels from Graham Weigh, at what used to be Deeside Cycles - brilliant shop for track gear. When they come I will measure the axle diameter and buy tugs to suit. :)

Oh we're all helpful but it is a lovely Thursday afternoon here in London and there is a general sense of *ennui *on the forum so there is a level of distractedness to contend with.

Why would Fuji specify the wrong bottom bracket?!

It makes no sense- FSA Carbon track pro cranks and BB, formula fixed/fixed wheels, surely it should be inline- 42.5mm is the standard is it not?

It's just wierd, the chain goes (if you are standing behind the bike) diagonally left from the sprocket, then goes diagonally right about midway through it's length back to the chain ring.

Meh.

Stronglight used to recommend the wrong length BB for their ST-1000 cranks. It happens.

Why would Fuji specify the wrong bottom bracket?!

It makes no sense- FSA Carbon track pro cranks and BB, formula fixed/fixed wheels, surely it should be inline- 42.5mm is the standard is it not?

It's just wierd, the chain goes (if you are standing behind the bike) diagonally left from the sprocket, then goes diagonally right about midway through it's length back to the chain ring.

Meh.

because the compatability of b/b, crank and rear hub/cog is wrong.

So what do I need to fix the situation Murtle?

i.e. what BB do I need to get?

I thought buying OTP meant that I would not have to dick about with chainline issues!

(It would be nice if Fuji put their hand in the corporate pocket for a new BB but I think that to be unlikely).

i don't bloody know

otp, is never "spot on"

it's usually a mish-mash of what is cheap/they have/can get hold of.

see if you can get one 4mm longer?????

which is only 2mm per side, but it might be enough. if not your fncked

backwheel time.

I was going to ask about this as well, as I also have a Fuji TP. Someone I spoke to said that the 'sharpened' dropouts' might be a problem, as you need flat ended dropouts for the tugs to work properly. Is this correct?

Also, no matter how tight I do the bolts up, I keep getting a tiny bit of slack developing...

It's just wierd, the chain goes (if you are standing behind the bike) diagonally left from the sprocket, then goes diagonally right about midway through it's length back to the chain ring.

Bent chain. Get a new, non-bent one.

haha

From a quick google it would appear that FSA recommend a 108mm BB, which is what I imagine Fuji have put in there.

Anyone got a 110mm ISIS BB that I can stick in to see if it cures the problem?

2 pages on chain tugs.. wtf's been going on here? Has OOL dropped in or something?

Bent chain. Get a new, non-bent one.

Got a new chain on my desk waiting to go on later.

However if Murtle is correct I'll just end up bending a new chain due to wrong BB length...

you didn't twist the frame when you did your thuperman impression??

a 110 will only move it 1mm

you didn't twist the frame when you did your thuperman impression??

a 110 will only move it 1mm

Jimbilly checked the frame- it is straight.

1mm was my intention- although I suppost I should measure both chainring and sprocket to see what the difference is.

if you think it is the chain, lift the rear wheel and turn the cranks.

you will see something. if not b/b.

I got a DA sprocket and it's still pretty noisy. Sharp teeth shoulders that need to wear in. The Surly cogs are much smoother. EAI swankypants one is machined with perfectly smooth shoulders, and a titanium nitride coating. That coupled with the KMC swankypants ti nitride chain would make it whisper quiet.

If your chain is bent, can you not rotate the cranks until you get a non-bent bit? Then it'll be fine.

If your chain is bent, can you not rotate the cranks until you get a non-bent bit? Then it'll be fine.

I'm ignoring you now.

I've just popped up to stores and measured, and as far as I can see the sprocket and chainring are spot on 42/43mm.