Tubs

Of those techniques which are suitable for carbon fibre rims?

You need to test the glazing but the solvents I suggested tend, in general, to be also suitable. Many people use "citrus based" solvents but they are not suitable to some of the other materials we have on bicycles. Its main substance D-limonene tends to react with a lot of plastics and rubber causing them to swell.

I found this earlier, well I got round to reading it more fyi;

http://www.biketechreview.com/tires_old/images/AFM_tire_testing_rev9.pdf

He was not really measuring rolling resistance but proving that his wheels were not properly glued. The high RR came from the tyre squirming about on the rim.

I believe he re-tested though?

And it's 3 on the rim, last one is used to mount tyre and 2 on the rim, both left to dry for 24h?

Also I've read putting liquid latex? on the sidewall will help reduce puncture possibility.

What would this liquid latex be? Google brings up some wacky things.

Something like Stans fluid, seals the hole in the event of a puncture. Needs to inside the inner tube though. Can't imagine it will do anything good to the RR mind, probably not worth bothering with on race wheels.

Put it in after the puncture to get you home I reckon

NO no.

You put it on the sidewall, to prevent stuff easily going through the sidewall. Unless I'm fucking retarded and read wrong.

No dirty fluids will be going inside my tires.

Though maybe I am retarded and misunderstood.

Nope no retard

http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.co.uk/2007/06/how-tubular-are-made-and-maintained.html

The outer surface of the sidewalls of road tubulars is coated at the factory but this coating is of course thin and does not take long to wear off, exposing threads to the atmosphere. Attempts to remedy this by applying shellac to the sidewalls are not satisfactory because the shellac is brittle and will flake off. To apply rubber cement is to invite disaster because it merely hastens the breakdown of the latex, causing the threads to separate. The best overall sidewall protection is natural latex.

To prepare the tubular for the latex, first inflate it on a wheel and wash it thoroughly with dishwashing detergent and water. Then rinse thoroughly with water.

When the tire is dry the sidewalls are ready for the latex. I have found that the best brush to apply latex is an acid brush (used in soldering) obtainable at most hardware stores. Wash the brush before using to remove any oil it may contain, and of course use the brush for no other purpose. Keep the tubular inflated until the latex is dry, which takes at least 24 hours.

Shake the latex well and dip the brush only into the “suds,” this will assure that you do not get too much latex on the brush. Therefore, you will be better able to apply a thin coat (which is all you want) to the sidewalls.

If the latex will not foam, add no more than one tablespoon of sudsy ammonia per quart of latex. If the latex is too thick it may be thinned with distilled water. Brush on the latex rapidly being sure not to brush it out too much.

After the latex has been applied allow the inflated tire, on the wheel, to remain in a warm room for 24 hours. Then dust the sidewalls with talcum powder to “kill” the stickiness, and the tire is ready for use.

Never come across that before. Is it really necessary?

Is what really necessary?

Never come across that before. Is it really necessary?

For some CX tubs, yes, otherwise they get wet and then rot.

Liquid urethane though, not latex (or maybe the two are interchangeable, who knows)

This stuff;

It's essential on Dugast tubs, although their new Small Bird model comes with the sidewall treated as part of the manufacturing process.

Done. Pretty sure I WAY over-glued, was an arse to centre, luckily it went on nearly perfect. However, I've no idea how I'll get it off. Fuck me it's glued.

Hah, I've given myself some impressive blisters getting tubs off before.

Oh well. It doens't need to come off unless it punctures or it's dead. So I won't mind getting at it with a flathead. I think I'll tufo sealant it if it just gets a little puncture. Not worth the hassle of taking it off etc.

But yeah, to anyone thinking of tubs and gluing. I'm not bad with my hands, but this was a piece of piss. My girlfriend could do it, without any trouble. Well maybe pulling it onto the rim. But the velofelx was easy to get over the rim, pre-stretched it.

So go for it, tubs are cool.

This stuff;

It's essential on Dugast tubs, although their new Small Bird model comes with the sidewall treated as part of the manufacturing process.

This is not quite the same thing a liquid latex. Aquaseal is a Urethane glue. Its MDI in toulene. The "real stuff"(tm) is an emulsion of natural latex in Ammonium. The problem with Urethene is that it asborbs water and can seperate from the base. Latex is the stuff that one uses in making tyres and works better. Its just not as "easy to use".
The best source is Kremer Pigments. Its 11.90 EURO per litre. In NYC is $30 USD. A litre is a LOT of latex.

Took the front wheel from my cursed tubular wheelset to be changed yesterday.

I opted against doing the rear, as it had been a bit quieter and seemed fine.

During a team pursuit at the track this morning, as I was riding third man, it suddenly went bang, and I count myself very lucky to have stayed on and not taken anyone else out with me.

I opted against doing the rear, as it had been a bit quieter and seemed fine.

During a team pursuit at the track this morning, as I was riding third man, it suddenly went bang,

Condom track tyres can sometimes do that. A little contract and a lossening of the threads and boom. If the tyre casing gets weakened the latex inner-tube just blows-up and rips things apart. Used to be much much more common than it is today.
The only road tyre I've ever had explode on me was a Vittoria CX. The tread delaminated from the casing and went BANG. I suspect it was a manufacturing defect. I had a few hand-me-downs from pro-team riders and they were quite nice so it may have been a QC issue-- the tyre that exploded I purchased paying retail at a bicycle shop.

Took the front wheel from my cursed tubular wheelset to be changed yesterday.

I opted against doing the rear, as it had been a bit quieter and seemed fine.

During a team pursuit at the track this morning, as I was riding third man, it suddenly went bang, and I count myself very lucky to have stayed on and not taken anyone else out with me.

dude, the amount of drama you are going through with your tubular experience would put most people off, kudos for hanging in there :)

Glass everywhere today on ride to work, but no p_nct_rs. Happy days.

I find that the 22 Sprinter tubs are comfier than my 32 Pasela TG clinchers. Much better at absorbing vibration from roads gone to crud due to bad tarmac, the kind where there's grit missing everywhere and you just rattle over the road. But not on tubbies.

Awesomeness!

Nice! Sounds like sprinters are jack of all trades of the tub world.

I just received 100 pairs of latex gloves. Going to have all sorts of fun with glue tonight, yeah!

I'm going to put 3 coats on the rims, over 3 evenings, and 2 coats on the tyres. The last coat being on the tyre a few minutes before mounting. Does this sound reasonable?

Yeah that's it, you put the last coat on and then start pulling the tire over.

The fresh glue will bond to the older glue, but it's still a bit flexible so you can pull the tire over. I recommend cursing for the pulling bit and patience for the truing bit...

Only one coat on the tyre.

Mount the tub on the third application on the rim.

Three coats on road rims sounds a bit like overkill, but whatevs.

Don't wear gloves when mounting the tyre - they'll just stick to the glue and shred. You'll also sweat into them like nothing else at the moment making a difficult job even harder.

Continental Alu Rim Cement/Glue specifies three coats on tire, two on rim with last coat going on tire only.

Overkill or not, I stuck to it and so far so good.