Tubs

Posted on
Page
of 104
  • Yeah, cheap enough to give it go

  • $80 USD for a single Conti Sprinter? What do they want for Competitions? Or what about FMB PRs? While I tend to strongly prefer to purchase from a LBS it does not translate into a willingness to pay more than 2x what mailorder, resp. import, would provide. A 32 EURO-- that 32 EURO includes 19% VAT if sourcing from Germany (which does not apply to exports out of the EU)-- tyre for $80 USD at current exchange rates is a bit too much of a premium to source locally.
    The Specialized tyre? It looks like a cheap "training tyre" from some Asian subcontractor. "Training tyres" are, in general, not worth bothering with. I've yet to find a tyre in the last 20 years priced below the Sprinter that is not crap. Its not like clinchers.. Cheap clinchers can really be OK.. Sometimes even the better choice.. Cheap vulcanized clincher tyres are often robuster than their upmarket "open tubular" cousins..

  • What glue would I use to stick the basetape back onto the tyre here?

  • I use the stuff cobbler's use to glue shoe soles on. Have a massive bottle name escapes me.

    Edit: Barge glue.

  • Well, I had Copydex in the house, so I used Copydex, lets see. This tyre is destined to be a spare, so is only get-you-home.

  • Be interested to here how the Copydex works out. I've got a Sprinter for a spare in almost the same condition as yours

  • I'll report back. I have a stupid number of tubs now, I really need to thin the herd a little.

    I had to force myself to put one in the bin the other day that was clearly FUBAR'd.

  • Copydex seems to be the approved solution on TT forum.

  • If you dont want to carry a spare tub then i hope you like walking because if you are relying on pitstop or other sealant you are askkng for it. I carry pitstop and a spare tub. Rarely need it but i dont like walking if i did i would just go for a walk.

    Superglue and patches. What exactly are you planning to do with those.

  • Who are you replying to?

  • Copydex: Scorchio!

    In other news, I have a crazy number of tyres, if anyone needs tubs hit me up.

    I have two never-used Schwalbe One, two never-used Sprinter Gator - pay me half what you can find them for online.

  • If gatorskins are 22mm could I offer £30 for the pair? £28.36 each from http://www.bike-discount.de/ or £32.95 from merlin cycles

  • Yes and yes.

  • I live in SE23, work in W1, happy to meet near either of those, or somewhere between the two.

  • Do you have anything worn-but-not-too-worn I could carry around as a spare?

  • Sprinter?

  • 22c?

  • Pretty skinny, hang on.

  • Yep, 22c

  • Sounds good, how much?

  • Free, just come and get it.

  • Has anyone ever completely replaced base tape? I've just found a barely used Sprinter I was given years ago but there wasn't much care taken removing it so there is no base tape.

  • Has anyone ever completely replaced base tape? I've just found a barely used Sprinter I was given years ago but there wasn't much care taken removing it so there is no base tape.

    I've written about his more than a few times.... Quick summary.. Need to use a water and solvent proof glue that is both elastic and stronger than the glue used to attach the basetape to rim. Typical choices are liquid latex (an emulsion of latex disolved in ammonium), latex based glue (Henkel's Copydex in the UK), Roberts carpet glue (US),... industrial fabric adhesives.
    You need to remember that the bond between tyre and rim is defined by the weaknest of the two bonds: basetape to rim or tyre to basetape. For road use the bond between basetape and rim needs to be not just elastic but also sticky (allowing for renewed contact adhesion). The bond between the basetape and tyre should never be sticky.

  • If that magic Liquid latex of which you speak, is InFact solvent proof. How do they dissolve it in ammonia?

    Magnets?

    The mastik we glue tubs with doesnt really form a super solid bond. So you wouldnt need to go far up the solvent based glue Food Chain to find one stronger. Obviously steer Clear of anything water based. But I fail to see the need for nasty ammonia based latexs.

    I'm a polymer chemist not a tub expert. So big pinch of salt needed. But i'd have just used the barge glue that I have. As I'm pretty sure that'll hold sufficiently better than mastik.

  • How do they dissolve it in ammonia?

    They don't. It's dissolved in water, a touch of ammonia is added to keep the pH of the solution positive so that it remains dissolved in the water rather than polymerizing.

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Tubs

Posted by Avatar for Todd @Todd

Actions