Brake levers?

Couldn't start a new thread if I wanted to cos I'm in the nursery... But I am DESPERATE to know how to fit an Acor cross lever to my first fixed project. I saw a pic of DanDNA's bike with the lever coming out the 'wrong' side - this is the only way which makes sense to my brain as it pulls. Can someone please post up a pictoral tutorial (or a very detailed written one) of how to fit a cross top lever as the only brake lever. For the record, mine are the Acor ones.

Tim

It's a lever and some cable. Is it really that hard?

goes to look for pic

Is this the same sort of lever you mean? Knob bit is behind the lever.. cable runs through and down into caliper..

Don't wanna start a new thread.
As I am about to become a proud owner of a Fuji Track, I am looking for some brakes and levers.
Those goldfingers or dirty harrys certainly look nice, but they are all 22.2 mm, aren't they?
Fuji bars apparently have 26 mm diameter, any decent levers I canget for it?
Or do I need to start with replacing stem and bars??

The original version of the Goldfinger, the Dirt Harry will fit on Fuji Track bars, they're 25.4 mm.

It comes with a shim to fit standard sized BMX levers, without the shim it fits 25.4 mm diameter bars.

Is this the same sort of lever you mean? Knob bit is behind the lever.. cable runs through and down into caliper..

Aye, that's the sort. Maybe I'm wrong but with this set-up the cable itself doesn't get pulled - correct? So is the braking affected by the pushing down of the cable housing on the caliper? If this is the case, am I right in thinking the length of the cable housing has to be very accurate? And do I need a certain type of very rigid cable housing??

Thanks for answering, Hippy.

The original version of the Goldfinger, the Dirt Harry will fit on Fuji Track bars, they're 25.4 mm.

It comes with a shim to fit standard sized BMX levers, without the shim it fits 25.4 mm diameter bars.

Not quite so, I had to file my Dirt Harry down to fit on 25.4 Nitto bars. I think there may be different versions floating around.

Yes, only the original black/silver is the one with the wider diameter and shim.

Aye, that's the sort. Maybe I'm wrong but with this set-up the cable itself doesn't get pulled - correct? So is the braking affected by the pushing down of the cable housing on the caliper? If this is the case, am I right in thinking the length of the cable housing has to be very accurate? And do I need a certain type of very rigid cable housing??

Thanks for answering, Hippy.

*Bump - anyone able to answer this?! I could be on the road tomorrow if I can understand and do this!

The movement is all all relative. Just cut the outer cable to the length that produces a nice clean curve, then thread the inner able through and install.

These look sweet

these are not exactly worth it, if your hand is reasonably big (i.e. men), this is what happen;

in order to avoid this, you'll need to rotate your brake levels 90 degree downward so it wouldn't hit your index finger.

and it's not as easy to squeeze as a normal levels like a goldfinger or dirt harry, a small playoff to having two levels.

I got a gold finger and de-anodized it as recommended by the good folk here. It's all bright and shiny and exactly the thing I needed for the budget.

Don't wanna start a new thread.
As I am about to become a proud owner of a Fuji Track, I am looking for some brakes and levers.
Those goldfingers or dirty harrys certainly look nice, but they are all 22.2 mm, aren't they?
Fuji bars apparently have 26 mm diameter, any decent levers I canget for it?
Or do I need to start with replacing stem and bars??

Although someone already mentioned that Fuji bars are often 25.4mm, I have a similar problem. My bars are 26.0mm and I need some new levers... goldfingers look great but will only stretch to 25.4mm - any one got suggestions for (similar) levers to fit a 26.0mm bar?

Cheers all!

Goldfingers come with a shim.

Aye, that's the sort. Maybe I'm wrong but with this set-up the cable itself doesn't get pulled - correct? So is the braking affected by the pushing down of the cable housing on the caliper? If this is the case, am I right in thinking the length of the cable housing has to be very accurate? And do I need a certain type of very rigid cable housing??
Thanks for answering, Hippy.

Yep
Not really. Braking is probably not as good as a nice drop lever but it can certainly lock the wheel and modulation is good enough for me.
Not very accurate - long enough to allow it to reach the calipers but not too long so as to be flopping all over the place.
Nope. Standard cable, standard cable outer.

I have this same setup.
The goldfinger lever fits FUji bars fine by the way:)
The problem is that my braking force sucks.
The cable is a bit longer then in the thread photo.The lever needs really lots of force to be applied, and still wheel cannot be locked if I am in motion.
Had a ride on my geared bike yesterday and brake there almost caused me to perform artistic over the bar tumble.
What is wrong?
I noticed that when I pull the lever, there is a bit of click at the last stage and the cable moves a bit towards the bars, right by the ending.
Shall I make my cable longer or switch to left hand maybe?

these are not exactly worth it, if your hand is reasonably big (i.e. men), this is what happen;

in order to avoid this, you'll need to rotate your brake levels 90 degree downward so it wouldn't hit your index finger.

and it's not as easy to squeeze as a normal levels like a goldfinger or dirt harry, a small playoff to having two levels.

I think you must have it set up wrong

If you had it on the other side of the stem, the big lever still for the right hand and little one for the left, then the cable would not interfere with your digits

Whaddya say?

if I have it on the other side of the stem, I can´t reach the little levels.

I have this same setup.
The goldfinger lever fits FUji bars fine by the way:)
The problem is that my braking force sucks.
The cable is a bit longer then in the thread photo.The lever needs really lots of force to be applied, and still wheel cannot be locked if I am in motion.
Had a ride on my geared bike yesterday and brake there almost caused me to perform artistic over the bar tumble.
What is wrong?
I noticed that when I pull the lever, there is a bit of click at the last stage and the cable moves a bit towards the bars, right by the ending.
Shall I make my cable longer or switch to left hand maybe?

Drop bar levers have more mechanical advantage than flat bar levers.

re. the cable moving, it sounds like your cable is not seated properly at one end. Take it off and insepect where the cable sits and the end of the cable outer. Is it cut off cleanly, you may need to file the end to get a nice clean finish. use a ferral if you have one too.

Thanks Tommy.
I think it might be the cable and housing are too short as both housing ends move quite a lot when the lever is pulled. I will see if the cable ends are properly seated as you suggested.
By the way, what is ferral? My dictionary comes up with nothing:)

I may have spell it wrong, but I can say it :) (after some googleing I did, Ferrules), it's the little metal bit that is seen on the end of cables. Not necessary but nice to have

Sheldon has some cable tips.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

Only one one side I got it.
Will investigate the problem and let everybody know of the outcome.
Cheers for the tips!

Just a suggestion (not sure what is/isn't trendy, but this is from a practical point of view), why not braze some 4 bolt Magura mounts to a pair of steel forks an run a Magura HS33 on the front with a modified, shorter lever blade? It would be more efficient, not a big job, pretty unique (not seen it on a road bike before), the lever would be much easier to pull and the brake would be really efficient.
If might try it myself if I decide to go back to running a front brake. If anyone wants to give it a go themselves, I might be able to help them out with various bits and pieces.

It's on upside-down. Flip it over and the cable won't get in the way.

how exactly thought? it's the right way round, flipping it round mean I have the advantage of a very long levels on my left but an unreactable short on the right despite no longer having the cable getting in the way, here's how the levels should fit;

poor design on Dia Compe part methinks.

edited; just notice they come in all sort of colour now;

Acor Cyclocross Lever questions:

Will the 23.8mm levers fit on Cinelli Criterium bars - 24.1mm dia.?
How do they attach to the bars?
Can they be installed/removed with out taking the bar tape off?