Help me make my polo mallet

Anyone else had problems with regular bolts coming undone?

I've never tried this method before but it looks pretty tidy.

What do i need to ask for at the bolt shop? M5 nylock nuts, m5 60mm screws and a 120 cm length of threaded rod.

What is a csk screw? One with a domed head rather than a chamfer? Do you still need to counter sink it a bit?

I've been doing research as I'm also new to the 'JOL'.

I gather:
Most are using M6.
Not many are using Nylock bolts.
40mm M6 countersunk hex bolt.
Don't countersink RV / thinner mallet heads
Length of rod to sink the bolt

Correct me if I'm wrong, as I'm about to do this.

Ok,

So I've built all my mallets with M6. M5 will work, but you have to cut the pole lower done, on the Perros it's only just above the notch.

I use a standard M6 nut, and 40mm M6 countersunk hex bolts

I used to use longer bolts, if you are doing it for the first time maybe go longer, it'll give you more room for error, if you cut the pole to short the nut will just get pulled through.

I countersink my heads a little bit, so that the bolt is flush with the plastic. Just be careful not to go all the way through (very easy with the thin black plastic).

I drill a 5mm hole in the bottom, so that the M6 bolt will grip it that bit more.

I used hex bolts, as it wears a lot less than phillips or flathead, I previously used those, and at some point you can't unscrew it. Also there are always allen keys at polo.

1m rod should do it.

Clerkenwell Screws sell the bolts in all lengths, Leyland sell the threaded rod.

I'm happy to show anyone, I usually carry bolts with me, and it's easy to unscrew the head if you want to have a look.

M4 works on riks too, although you can only cut about an inch off the bottom

I've used normal bolts not lock ones. Came loose once and it was because the head had started to unscrew not because of the bolt moving. Once the bolt is wedged in I've been able to bounce the pole upside down and it's not come out.

Also you don't need anywhere like a whole meter of threaded rod, only need a handful (should that be hand length?) more than your bolt length.

Also you don't need anywhere like a whole meter of threaded rod, only need a handful (should that be hand length?) more than your bolt length.

I guess in theory you can drop it down, and hope it comes out of the bottom, but a standard meter rod only costs £1, and makes it easier.

I found it a bit cumbersome so cut it in half, recon I should have gone for thirds.

i recommend nylock, to be sure!

csk is COUNTERSUNK, cam i thought you were a chippy?

i recommend not countersinking the black pipe it will pull through.

RIght, I'ma go to Clerkenwell screws.
Does anyone want anything?

I guess in theory you can drop it down, and hope it comes out of the bottom, but a standard meter rod only costs £1, and makes it easier.

Genius! I never thought of this.

Just stuck a 120mm Harvey head onto a Perro Lite, feels nice... MILK x Perro Lite combo is still fractionally lighter, I'll chuck some 60mm bolts in at some point to lighten them up a bit more...

My RV head mallets are light enough... I'm gonna have thick-walled shafts for throw-ins and "lights" for tournaments, ooh!

£15 for a complete mallet is awesome.

What's the best way to neaten up the end of plastic pipe after sawing if you don't have a lathe?

Just use a bastard file or some glass paper. Whats the Milk head made of? Is it from the US?

Our first product is a mallet head. Our goal was to get a strong head, easy to install and change. We use the PE-UHMW as material and a custom mounting system to attach the head to the pole.

It's the guys from Iron Ponies in Geneva... I actually need a proper bastard rasp file... Will do...

Whats that white stuff like? Light but soft?

The MILK is light and very hard, it's good... The cap on the Harvey head is softer but lasts longer than the yellow or black pipe, not sure what it is...

What's the best way to neaten up the end of plastic pipe after sawing if you don't have a lathe?

Carpet cutting blade, can put it in any stanley knife

M6 CSK bolts, various lengths

M6 Nylock Nuts

Umm, that's pretty pricey? I wager that a normal nut and bolt will outlast your head (on London courts) and will cost around 30p?

By the same logic, if you are getting one to last you 3-6 months, then paying a couple of quid is not that big a deal?

In fact £5 for 10 60mm is just 50p per bolt.

The MILK is light and very hard, it's good... The cap on the Harvey head is softer but lasts longer than the yellow or black pipe, not sure what it is...

My MILK head has already gone a bit concave on the cap, meaning that the ball scoops more than normal, All the Rv heads i have ever had have never gone concave in the same way due to the cap being thinker and stronger. After spending the last couple weeks (really Years) trying out different heads and poles, I think a standard perro on a rv head is best not only for weight, but for accuracy in short play and for longer shots.

I can't really understand the current (or upcoming) trend of having mallets and bike parts (wheels) for tournament play? surely having a different set ups for tourneys will hinder you as you will not be used to the equipment your using? mallets feeling different, wheels weighing different amounts, Etc. just wondering...don't think i will be going down the tournament equipment route.

Ok the nuts are stupid expensive. Assuming it's an individual price. I got 10 normal nuts for under a quid.

I can't really understand the current (or upcoming) trend of having mallets and bike parts (wheels) for tournament play? surely having a different set ups for tourneys will hinder you as you will not be used to the equipment your using? mallets feeling different, wheels weighing different amounts, Etc. just wondering...don't think i will be going down the tournament equipment route.

This!!