Stripped hub - feck!

Rotofixing works fine, as long as you are aware that you can damage hub threads doing it, and don't give it the beans when tightening.

Whatever, eh. Maybe you're just too feeble to tighten it up that much.

Ask someone with some upper body strength to do the lock ring up

Ha!

Ask someone with some upper body strength to do the lock ring up

if only you were there with the torque wrench

Has this been resolved yet?

Propriety is the way to go. I've used the White Industries (WI) splined and the less common Level hub system. With the WI you know they'll be around for a long time but the Levels are very tough with their raised knuckle system and their big flange (oooh errr):

The excellent Will@hubjub stocks this and has given top notch service when I had any issues.

Good luck with that zebra tho...

You mean rotofixing.

Or, as some might call it, overtightening the cog to the extent that it damages the threads, leading to stripping when torqued in the opposite direction, by leg braking.

you mean rotAfixing.
over tightening the cog to thread damage can happen even with chain whip, so not a valid point really.

You mean rotofixing.
Or, as some might call it, overtightening the cog to the extent that it damages the threads, leading to stripping when torqued in the opposite direction, by leg braking.

Over-tightening only happens when you over-tighten.

Rotofixing as a method is fine if you're not an ass. Helpful when you've forgotten or just snapped your chainwhip.

Rotofixing works fine, as long as you are aware that you can damage hub threads doing it, and don't give it the beans when tightening.

Whatever, eh. Maybe you're just too feeble to tighten it up that much.

Yeah, what this crazy fool said.

i liked that title floating around but cheers hippy

It's amazing that about 90% of the problems posted about in Mechanics and & Fixin' can be solved by one of these magical devices

I ride a fixed gear bike. I have a brake. I was using BOTH when the lockring went... The question is more on what I'm doing wrong with the installation of my cog/lock ring and not whether I have a brake or not.

Another question: Can I install a bolt on cog and save the goldtec from the bin, or is it a whole new 'special' hub designed for bolt ons?

And now to the stripped hugs...

Dibs

Sold! Stripped hug for hael!

Oily or soapy?

You haven't mentioned the cogs you are using? Phil Wood on their website do not recommend using Surly or EAI cogs on their hubs as their width at the shoulder can reduce the amount of thread engagement on the lockring.

Conversely a 'skinny' cog would reduce the amount of thread engagement on the hub ending up with more force going through less threads and you might not be able to get the lockring snug enough.

Cheapo cogs might also have shitty threads with 'gaps' meaning again reduced amounts of threads actually in contact betwixt cog and hub. Steel cog and alu hub with poor tolerances on both is a bad mix but buggering a Goldtech is impressive.

Only option with stripped threads is to use something like JB Weld to permanently attach a cog to the hub as a last resort.

Srs question - CB when was the last time you checked the lockring? I find that on my Goldtecs I check them weekly - they will work their way loose more easily for some reason.

Greatest chainwhip on the face of the Earth.

Greatest chainwhip on the face of the Earth.

i have that exact one

next

Srs question - CB when was the last time you checked the lockring? I find that on my Goldtecs I check them weekly - they will work their way loose more easily for some reason.

it had only been about 2 weeks since i had them rebuilt, so not that long

I think im going to use JB weld on it and hopefully save them

Give it to a proper bike shop to tighten it up for you.

Then blame them when it fail*

*as long you're not going to the one in Wimbledon.

You haven't mentioned the cogs you are using? Phil Wood on their website do not recommend using Surly or EAI cogs on their hubs as their width at the shoulder can reduce the amount of thread engagement on the lockring.

I've been using a Surly cog on a Phil Wood hub for ages without any problems. Has anyone had problems? Or is it just PW trying to scare us away from their competitors?

Give it to a proper bike shop to tighten it up for you.

Or give it to a body builder.

So the update

I have bought some J-B Weld, Condor Cog and Lockring.

Tonight i will be welding the Cog and lockring to the hub.

My question about this project is: with the J-B Weld liquid instead of grease, how tight should I tighten it?

Hopefully it will cause the welding to occur, but should it be locked tight already or should i give it a little space to bond together?

tight that mother foocker

the tighter the better