Bike porn

It's been crashed.

What makes you think that?

fork looks bent

What makes you think that?

fork looks bent

Exactly.

Yeah. Sorry, what year? I hate the new design, where the hoods curve inwards but am interested in that design.

The ergo design changed in about 2008 - old ones are much nicer to my eyes.

I had a feeling they weren't completely true. Do you reckon it would be worth the cost/effort to replace the fork?

You need to also need to check for bulges on the tops/ends of the down and seat tube. If the forks bent then there may be damage to the main section of the frame.

Personally I would take it to your LBS and have them check the rest of the frame. Then bin the forks, or if they're inline convert them into a truing stand (i.e. left to right, as opposed to bent front to back)

Not really. Plenty of good bargains out there on ze continent

Also the thread / forum section you want is here: http://www.lfgss.com/thread6261-1618.html

I've quoted the posts in there so probably best to move the discussion there.

Yeah. Sorry, what year? I hate the new design, where the hoods curve inwards but am interested in that design.

Looks like ~2008 10-speed. They went all ugly when they went 11-speed I think.

Exactly.

Yep crashed. Or rammed into a wall really hard.

Terrible back ground but lovely bike.
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/look-l96-1.jpg
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/look-l96-9.jpg
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/look-l96-7.jpg

that frame has got a lot less LOOK logos than the others they make, seemingly they got moved onto the handlebars :D

i know a lot of people who grab about 52t or 53t and than i don't see them using the full cassette. My road bike has a 50t/34t with 11-25 and to be honest i think it's great for 99% of the rides.
Try to set the bike a cassette with a 11t and you'll see that you don't need many changes.
If you feel that you run out of gears with 50/11 man, than you're ridding hard ;)

Thanks for the replies everyone, I actually only have 12-28 on the back, and I use the 50x12 regularly on descents, especially the long straightish ones where I really want to be able to power on and just can't. I think the obvious option is to try 11-27 which I will when I need to replace this cassette, but I have picked up a spare 12-28 with another purchase so my inner cheapskate will want to wear that out too before I buy anything else...

At the other end of the spectrum I don't use the 34/28 often, although I did yesterday on the last few climbs of a very hilly 90 miles in the rain in the peak yesterday.

Also I am using sora 9 speed, so upgrading the chainset means I have to upgrade a whole load of other stuff, not realy an option right now.

said it before and i'll say it again, it's the skinny STs on 'dales that make them work

Yeah, and the 1" HT too. The modern ones with headsets and larger HT mostly look gash.

All this talk of cassette to chainring ratios has got me wanting a new cassette now... and chain.

Factory Visit to NITTO on Vimeo

Factory Visit to NITTO from Ryota Kemmochi

Terrible back ground but lovely bike.
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/look-l96-1.jpg
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/look-l96-9.jpg
http://www.cycleexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/look-l96-7.jpg

Proper porn!

^ ow YES

:)

Now I'm wondering if it's you guys that need your eyes tested - this person just wrote this (on a different forum) about my bike:

"Are you sure the fork is bent? If you base your assumption on this photo, it might not be correct. Not sure how exactly this happens, but the spoke angles behind the fork often produce the optical illusion (especially on photographs) of a bent fork when in fact there's nothing wrong."

It's definitely bent. And the current projects thread is over there >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Factory Visit to NITTO on Vimeo[/url]

Factory Visit to NITTO from Ryota Kemmochi

Post No.7- Newby is new. This page is dead.

^^^ You paid 100 euros for a 20 euro bike.
Go, and find the thread that fits.

Ricky updated his website with a few new pieces... Very nice indeed.
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/shot-264-feat-pic.jpg
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/7.jpg
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/2.jpg
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/SHOT-0032.jpg
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/SHOT-0074.jpg
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/SHOT-025.jpg
http://www.feathercycles.com/staging/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/SHOT-0191.jpg

Is the 11-27 the 2013 /14 campag cassette they have released? I find the 12-27 to be great... I miss the 11 tooth sometimes (so am keen on the new 11-27) but prefer the close ratios in the middle and having a bailout above 25 is what 11 speed is all about! Saving you from exploding when the climbs get longer!

also option 2 could be cheaper if you source someones worn out 11-23 (11 and 12 cog will always be fresh on an Record or SR cassette as they are steel and rarely used)

Go 52/36 up front?

Just to further fuck the porn thread.

Climbing gears > desending gears. You'll save more time, and your legs, if you can maintain a decent cadence on the way up.

Having said that. You need to be doing a bloody long climb to want 34:27. My dilema is that I actually do want 34:27 for my occasional bloody long climb. But I actually also use 50:11.

Currently have, and liked, byt need to replace.
11-25
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25

Option 1.
11-27 cassette.
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, 27
But hate the look of the 16 - 18 tooth jump.

Option 2.
11-23
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23

• 12-27
  12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27
  But thats the expensive option.
  
  

Option 3.
Found this 11-27, which has the big jump moved to the end.
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 24, 27

hmmm.

^ This can be continued in the Current projects thread!