Bike porn

It's a great picture I have something like it in the shop

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swCE-XhxuEQ&feature=player_embedded#"]YouTube
- Adeyaka Magazine: Sano Magic[/ame]!

(also mentioned in this thread: http://www.lfgss.com/thread9736-3.html#post712019 )

chopped by the same person who brought us this monstrosity

http://www.behance.net/ErikNohlin

Er. Missed this. Do actually like. (Drop might be a bit OTT)

Nothing knew I guess. Still, good illustration.

quote:

what's the rear rim? cxp10? looks so nice

That or a CXP33

That or a CXP33

This^
http://www.lfgss.com/album.php?albumid=261&pictureid=1740

It doesn't look as deep though.

could be cxp30?

not a 30, thats got a braking surface

CXP30 I think... http://www.lfgss.com/post133150-1.html

.

oh dear.

oh dear.

go on...what?

Posting your own bike in porn... (nice tho)

Current projects is that way >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

could be cxp30?

Possibly, looks a touch deeper than CXP33 maybe.

they are cxp3something.

Sorted.

There is a thread to post your own bike in. It's called the Names & Faces thread.

It's considered poor form to post your own bike in 'Bike Porn'. It makes you seem arrogant.

yep, and that bike will make it straight into porn by others once you post it in current projjects anyways.

understood! sorry didn't realise.

it's a mistake a lot of people make, don't sweat it..

Re: Quick release

Its pretty obvious that your race mechanic can better reach and use the rear QR if it is on the non-drive side, away from the derailier/chain etc. It is simply convience to have the front on the same side. Not a big mechanical issue, just a finishing touch, like lining up your tyre logos.

On MTB's with disc brakes both QR'sare on the drive side, as brake discs can get fecking hot. On my winter beater I have recently built new wheels with disc compatible hubs, as I plan to upgrade. I automatically placed the QR's on the drive side, but as I am still running V's that makes no sense. Such is life.

so you telling to me that the race mechanic is going to open the QUR while you are still racing....
I always thought that to change a wheel you have to stop.

so you telling to me that the race mechanic is going to open the QUR while you are still racing....
I always thought that to change a wheel you have to stop.

No he isn't.

I remember a racer trying to open his QR on the fly. I think he broke his collarbone that time.

I guess it's easier for a racer and mechanic to grab the QR lever when it's not near other parts like rear mech (no matter if it's during the ride or when standing still).
So, for that reason, the non drive side is the most logical place for the rear QR.

And, as a wheel change has to be done as fast as possible, it halps if the lever is always at the same side. The mechanic (or racer) does not have to think or check first.

Just another matter: when racing, do NOT line up the lever nicely with frame tubes or fork blades. It makes it more difficult to release. How to do it exactly depends on the lever design. Make sure that your hand (fingers) goes easily behind the lever and frame tubes are not in the way.
E.g. with older style Shmn and Camp levers: rear lever parallel with LH chain stay, but on the downside. It will be more or less parallel with the chain stay, but 1 or 2 cm below, so, easy to get.
Do NOT place it between chainstay and seatstay, crossing the chainstay or crossing the fork blade. It may look neat, but it's not practical. Especially if you wear thick winter gloves or if your fingers are frozen.

so you telling to me that the race mechanic is going to open the QUR while you are still racing....
I always thought that to change a wheel you have to stop.

yeah, but the pelaton are doing 45kph away from you and and your mechanic walks to left of your bike, shrugs, and walks to the right. Time lost.

Like I said, its like lining up your tyre logos with your inner valves (or opposite if thats your thing). Its not like if you dont do it, you'll never find your valve, and have to throw your wheel away every time it looses pressure. Its just a nice touch that shows attention to detail was paid when putting together the bike.

If you buy a bike and the tyres are sloppily installed, and the front wheel is in backwards. It makes no difference to the performance. But youre not exactly going to feel confident about the quality of the important mechanical jobs, that you cant see.

I remember a racer trying to open his QR on the fly. I think he broke his collarbone that time.

I guess it's easier for a racer and mechanic to grab the QR lever when it's not near other parts like rear mech (no matter if it's during the ride or when standing still).
So, for that reason, the non drive side is the most logical place for the rear QR.

And, as a wheel change has to be done as fast as possible, it halps if the lever is always at the same side. The mechanic (or racer) does not have to think or check first.

Just another matter: when racing, do NOT line up the lever nicely with frame tubes or fork blades. It makes it more difficult to release. How to do it exactly depends on the lever design. Make sure that your hand (fingers) goes easily behind the lever and frame tubes are not in the way.
E.g. with older style Shmn and Camp levers: rear lever parallel with LH chain stay, but on the downside. It will be more or less parallel with the chain stay, but 1 or 2 cm below, so, easy to get.
Do NOT place it between chainstay and seatstay, crossing the chainstay or crossing the fork blade. It may look neat, but it's not practical. Especially if you wear thick winter gloves or if your fingers are frozen.

Also if you place it flush against tubes it may not be fully closed.