Serotta CSI

Sorry, still no decent photography, here's a quick iPhone one of the bike after todays ~60 miles of Kent lanes:

What out front mount are you using for your garmin? I'm guessing those bars are 26mm and there don't seem to be too many options in that diameter.

It's the Garmin one, with a rubber shim (not sure if it came with that or I re-purposed one from another source):

It doesn't really gel with the rest of the bike, but then neither does the Garmin I suppose.

Cheers

How are you finding the low front end, not tempted to unslam the stem to get it closer to your dale's fit?

How are you finding the low front end, not tempted to unslam the stem to get it closer to your dale's fit?

Not a good idea I believe. Just put on a few more kilos and you are there.

How are you finding the low front end, not tempted to unslam the stem to get it closer to your dale's fit?

Enjoying it at the moment, 60 miles today without any aches or pains- as this is the bike that I'll use for the Festive 500 I imagine that that will point out any biomechanical issues.

Moved the shifter up a touch, had a light ache in one side of the back of my neck yesterday which suggests I need to come up sightly:

... raise the stem?

rotate the bars more like even

May do both, one or neither.

I'm making small changes, one at a time.

Sorry to hear about your aches. Flat like this?

what.teh.fuck.is.that.stem.

It's somewhat challenging, visually- looks like it was original equipment on a hybrid of some description, being very short and with such a dramatic upward angle.

Oval stems are proper light IIRC...

and they do -17 deg

http://www.fixedgearfrenzy.com/oval-concepts-oval-r900-carbon-stem-73-rise-100mm.html?gclid=CPKznZrBtbsCFRSWtAodci4Aeg

This is the front mech in the inner ring position- note the cable position.

Then we shift to the outer ring:

But then, when we shift back to the inner ring:

The cable catches on that pivot point, and doesn't return fully.

Do I adjust the mech so it works properly with the cable trapped behind the pivot, or is there some straightforward way of ensuring that the cable doesn't get stuck?

Yes. Stay in the big ring :-)

#obviouslyunhelpfultrollisobvious

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Shimano-Dura-Ace-9000-front-derailleur-installation03-600x442.jpg

There’s a line printed on the guide. Depending on which side of the line the cable appears, you’ll adjust the converter accordingly, as printed on the bottom of the guide. Our cable hit the guide dead center, in which case it doesn’t really matter which way you set it. Shimano’s PR guy even said you could just install it one way and if the shifting doesn’t feel right, switch it and see if it gets better.

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Shimano-Dura-Ace-9000

a - put a washer between lever and cable to sit the cable clear of the rivet head

b - extend the corner sweep radius under the bb with curved ferrule from a set of mini-vees

c - screw a curtain eye hook into the rivet head hole and rethread the cable through this

d - fit campagnolo

... raise the stem?

Given that the front end is lower than the 'Dale, I thought that was the most obvious choice.

Dammit, nothing wrong with showing a bit of neck, it does not make you look more like a MAMIL.

oh you smooth t-rex groomer

Just put the levers straight. This looks like Anerley. No wonder you are not comfortable.

flats of drops point at rear brake bridge

And that's what matters. 2 flats each ride unless it points there...

Just put the levers straight. This looks like Anerley. No wonder you are not comfortable.

I don't understand what you mean.

For me is even the slightest drop in the bars before the levers very uncomfortable. But then I ride a lot on the curves of the bars which go straight to the hoods if that makes sense.