Serotta CSI

^^ forget it... just seen posts on page 5.

AndyPs allergy to compacts. You can't explain that.

Why didn't you go for a compact and a 11-25t ?

The new 4 bolt cranks can take any of the ring combinations, so the initial purchase doesn't tie you in as it used.

As it stands the 11-28 is basically a 10 speed 11-25 with a "panic" sprocket on the end.

I spent most of todays ride on the 53 and the smaller half of the cassette, so I think for the riding that this bike will mainly do the ratios are suitable.

I guess 11-28 is probably that cassette that comes into it's own with 11sp. I've always found slightly compromised on 10sp.

11 speed 6800 cassette: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28
10 speed 7900 cassette: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25

My (now sadly wheel-less) System Six normally has 52/36 and 11-25 10 speed, the Rotter feels just as useful with it's 11-28 and 53/39.

AndyPs allergy to compacts. You can't explain that.

I'm an advocate of compacts for the majority of cyclists, including me. My issue with the 50/34 standard is that a 16 tooth drop between chainring is too much, and when you ride one you're forever dicking around between front chainrings and running across the block, and a 34 is too small for the UK.

That's a fair comment, I always thought that the compact allowed you to run a closer ratios than having to dick about with a wide range cassette.

I'm an advocate of compacts for the majority of cyclists, including me. My issue with the 50/34 standard is that a 16 tooth drop between chainring is too much, and when you ride one you're forever dicking around between front chainrings and running across the block, and a 34 is too small for the UK.

This^

Even were I am I tend to aviod the 34t, as it really isnt that useful. I'd rather cross chain to 50:23 (11-25 casstte). So much so that I'd recently been on 3 rides before I noticed my front mech cable was buggered.

Not sure about 11-28 cassettes though. Even 11 speed. No 16t :(

Yeah, the 50-34 jump is the thing, isn't it. You end up avoiding that shift and cross-chaining instead.

I'm curious about the 52-36 option on the 11sp Shimano cranks, whether the 16T difference means it still feels the same in practice as a compact or if it's a bit smoother. I guess you can fit 50-36 if you want (albeit at great expense, probably)?

I have 52/36 on my Cannondale, it never felt like that massive a jump, but then that's a Di2 bike and changing at the front is encouraged by how easy it is I suppose.

That said it would happily run 52/27 without complaining.

I'm really happy with 50/34 on mine, to be honest i end up using the 34 & 11/12 a fair bit as the chainline is straighter than on the big ring at the larger end of the block. I do end up changing at the front far more often than i do on a bike with 53/39 Centaur/Daytona 10s but the Athena FD shifts far, far better than the older front mech so its not really an issue

I'm an advocate of compacts for the majority of cyclists, including me. My issue with the 50/34 standard is that a 16 tooth drop between chainring is too much, and when you ride one you're forever dicking around between front chainrings and running across the block, and a 34 is too small for the UK.

I agree the jump is too much. I ride a standard and a 46\34 now.

Not sure about the generalisation regarding uk roads though. I have five 20 percent climbs within 20 minuites of my home. Cornwall would be the same. Devon also. I find a 34 more useful on those than on alpine type climbs. Lots of riders just avoid those types of climbs, which is fair enough. None of the local races use them (other than hilly tts).

Luke- now that this is done I'll have to head out to your part of the world- we can compare how they perform relative to one another.

I'm going for standard chainset and wider range cassette fir Yorkshire and it's hills, have been riding 39/25 for a while and taking the advantage on the new build to go a bit lighter. Have dragged my ass up a few 20+% hills on the old gear though.

Luke- now that this is done I'll have to head out to your part of the world- we can compare how they perform relative to one another.

Definitely, although Suffolk is rather flat and if you're London based i can get to the surrounding areas pretty easily. If i see yours in the flesh i'm worried that mine may end up getting a fresh lick of paint

9.75/10 for the bike - 0.25 off as envy comes cheap.

All the photographs, showing the whole process: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8131181@N05/sets/72157636552632534

Very cool. Final shots aren't up to snuff though. Deserves better.

Yeah, that was me waving a camera around that I don't know how to use.

When Spotter is free we'll get some decent ones.

Sorry, still no decent photography, here's a quick iPhone one of the bike after todays ~60 miles of Kent lanes:

how was the bike?

100 miles on it so far, more an impression of the different parts I guess, leading to the whole.

The groupset is excellent, despite me keeping on thinking "hmm, front mech needs adjusting", then remembering that cable groups need the front trimming.

The brakes are pure awesome- huge power and great modulation.

Quill stem + Nitto Noodles= actually very stiff and not at all noodly.

The wheels and tyre combination is great- high volume tubs at fairly low pressures (85/80) give a great ride.

Also this bike tracks like an arrow- I wonder if it was the 56mm deep wheels on the Cannondale that made it feel a bit flighty at the front?

The frame itself is very stiff- a big surprise as my last steel bike was tres bendy (501 MTB), it's also "much race" in the geometry- very low at the front, but I've been enjoying that, it does give a lot of confidence whilst descending in the drops.

All in all I'm really enjoying it, and it's put me in a much better mood having a road bike to get out on again.

Heat-treated Nitto bars (assuming you got 44s) do tend to be stiff - my M106 are easily the stiffest bars I've used.

Great you are enjoying the new bike.

Is it now your new favourite bike over the Cannondale?

They are quite different bikes, albeit that both were race bikes in their day.

The Cannondale has no wheels or cranks though, so the Serotta wins on ease of use.