Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • For fitting canti's to frame fork - will I need an m6 20mm bolt?

  • it's not the forward and backwards moving that is a problem. I have those bolts (or Indra lost them) but I used to use them...

    the problem is the rotating. even with washers and bolts, the wheel still moves under braking or skidding.

    see this excellent video

    https://plus.google.com/photos/114725482822442675843/albums/5930534241205639377

  • Take it to your local framebuilder who has a Milling Machine, get the slot filled with brass/silver then have the slot re-machined so the slider doesn't flop about hideously like it does now.

  • Just whack the fucker with a hammer to get it shut.

    seriously, should only take a couple of hits to tighten that up.


  • The new crankset
    105 5600 crankset (cos I got it dirt cheap) wet and dried the logos off as 105 aint nothing to show off!
    USE 130bcd track chainring
    Ultegra hollowtech 2 6700 bottom bracket
    May have only shaved a few grams from my track 2000 setup, but does feel super stiff, mm perfect chainline and incredibly silent. Very happy thus far!

  • Took my nearly finished pomp out for a ride in the woods today to get a feel for it. Flite 1990 saddle and a pair of Challenge Fango 33's (brown sidewall) are on their way to add a bit of bling to finish it off. Weighs in at 9.0kg.

    This is the first time I've ever ridden a ssxc type bike. My brain couldn't quite work out what was going on at first - it felt like i'd got lost on my road bike but once I realised I could trust the tyres more I became more confident. I've got it set-up on a gear ratio of 44-17. Excellent for the flat but I was struggling slightly on little punches on muddy - slatey ground. Don't know if changing to 44-18 will make much difference?

    Certain things were rattling and making noises but I think I spotted the culprits for most things. In sum, I was playing about in the woods, getting muddy, on my new bike, like a little kid, listening to The Smiths - Kate Bush - and Steely Dan and fucking loved it.

  • Excellent Sandbag - if you get addicted, make shure to pay the sscx thread a visit and share your thoughts and experiences. A 18or19 on the back will definetly make it noticeable more 4x4 when the weather gets more moisty or the hills steeper (seated climbing where you can't unleash out-of-saddle megawatts because of lack of grip on the rear). Are you fixed or freewheelin'?

  • Am a freewheelin. Which makes me sad that I might have to fork out for another half decent freewheel.


  • The new crankset
    105 5600 crankset (cos I got it dirt cheap) wet and dried the logos off as 105 aint nothing to show off!
    USE 130bcd track chainring
    Ultegra hollowtech 2 6700 bottom bracket
    May have only shaved a few grams from my track 2000 setup, but does feel super stiff, mm perfect chainline and incredibly silent. Very happy thus far!

    Glad to see this is still around in the forum and being used. Banging frame.

  • Yeah, but you're not going to bang doe.

  • yeah plastic pedals she is still going strong! totally is a banging frame, she is going to stay with me for the foreseeable future.

  • Nelson Pista is now on the road...


    2 Attachments

    • Pic 1.jpg
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  • First off to my eyes the cable going into the rear hanger looks way too short to me. You want much more of a loop especially if you can get it to go the right way up.

    I'd usually recommend the surly one. It works, has a barrel adjuster and because of the design usually gives a good ok cableline.

    The one thing to note is that its quite long. Mine was fine with a small (c. 52cm) but traditional frame with a level top tube. Yours looks like the distance might be a bit touch and go, so definitely get the measurement for one before you buy.

    Thanks - from a bit of google-ing the Surly looks like the way to go.

    I agree, the cable is too short. By the time I'd got it in, though, I'd realised that the bend on the cable where it enters the hanger is so tight that the whole thing is compromised. I've resolved to re-cable, but not 'til I get the replacement hanger. Right now, when I pull the brake lever, the brake pads move... so I'm not sure it's going to get better without replacement hardware.

  • My bike came with its inline adjusters fitted in the middle of the length of cable outer, I presume that is how they are supposed to be and why they are called "inline adjusters" rather than frame mounted barrel adjusters etc...

    ^^ Yep, I have the Jagwire ones. Bit crappy really, since they're so difficult to use, particularly in gloves. Mine don't have that nice grippy bit poking out the top and the main body doesn't have those lines to aid gripping either. So when I try to adjust anything, the whole unit just tends to spin.

    Next time I come to recable that bike, I think I may have a bash with the ones that have a little wheel. They seem like they'd be more usable.

    Thanks both, I appreciate the comments. I need to re-do this bit of cabling. I must have just mis-understood how it all goes together (to be fair they're part of a used groupset I bought).

    To add to my embarrassment, I actually have these same things on my other Cannondale. Didn't notice until I'd set 'em up wrong, and posted on here. D'oh.

  • Yeah, but you're not going to bang doe.

    innit doe ?

  • Having some issues with a 1 inch stem not going further down the fork steerer. It stops moving down after about 3/4 cm. I've tried to grease, clean, re-grease and still no luck. Any one have any ideas on how I could get it to go down further?
    If it comes down to it I'll file the inside of the steerer, but don't want to risk over doing it and it cracking in the future or something like that.
    Any help would be much appreciated!

  • steerer might be butted inside

  • So I got a fairly scratched up Fuji Track Comp.

    Dropped it off at Armourtex yesterday. Matt black. Should be ready next week.

    Roboto made some stickers for me that when applied will look like this:

    Got all my parts ordered and they're being delivered to my LBS in the next few days:

    Columbus Aero Tusk Fork
    Cane Creek Integrated Headset
    Deda Newton Pista Stem
    Deda Elementi Pista Bars
    Black Omniums
    Front: Black H+Son Archetype laced to a black Paul HF Hub
    Rear: Black H+Son EERO laced to a black Paul HF Hub
    Vittoria Open Corsa SR Tyres
    D.I.D Track Chain
    Surly 17t Cog
    Thomson Black Layback Seatpost
    BLB CNC Flatliner Pedals /w Restraps
    Probably gonna put Lizard Grip tape on the bars...

    Haven't got a saddle yet.
    Any suggestions?
    I have a Specialized Toupe on my other bike and I like it and get on well with it except for the spiky nose. A cuppla times I've been stabbed with it whilst being silly.

  • My constant work in progress 653 Peugeot.

    http://www.paradisecycles.co.uk/assets/bikes/PeugeotLouis.jpg

  • I owned a very similar frame to that about a year ago, it had the same seat tube style designs and the fade, but it was cro-mo tubing

    boring comment but i find it interesting

  • steerer might be butted inside

    Probably is, but surely not up that high? but the stem wont go down further than 4cm and the steerer length is about 16cm?

  • I owned a very similar frame to that about a year ago, it had the same seat tube style designs and the fade, but it was cro-mo tubing

    boring comment but i find it interesting

    Yeah, i've seen them before. blue to green fade?

  • Yeah....

    Was thinking of building up as a roadie like yours, but my ex owns it now, so....

  • my ex owns it now, so....

    ...take it back and punch him/her in the kidneys?

  • Her.

    i did ask for it back, as it rides pretty good, but she did pay for it so she dose actually own it.

    I really hate that i never got to finish it, typical, mudguards needed bolts, trimming, same thing with the basket, needed to fit a charge ladle. but nooooo she goes and breaks my heart...

    emotions >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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