Bike fit / correct riding position

I had the perfect fit from Scherrit, my last fitting involved changing a slight number of item, stem now at 100mm, saddle set a bit forward, reasonable saddle to bar drop. Perfection, my fit from last years is still valid, with a few change, you do need to ride a lots and give a lots of feedback for him to better understand your fit.

Only issue is my right foot that developed bad hotspot even after 10 minutes that stil required some looking into, but this is a WIP for Scherrit, as my issue with my foot is an abnormal one.

If you want to know more about bike fitting then go to the Steve Hogg website . Scherrit is one his approved fitters.

They are also giving away his DVD with one of the fitness cycle magazines just not, though I think its only available in Waitrose..

BTW - Steve does not work by formulas...

The Dave Moulton bike fit chart - is also ,I find, worth a look.

agreed. scherrit was using some steve hogg techniques
heres a couple of good links

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/
http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/02/seat-height-how-hard-can-it-be/

I just had a fitting with the Bike Whisperer, have posted my thoughts on the specific thread!
http://www.lfgss.com/thread21125-6.html

I've been zooming around on my Langster, with a zero setback post and the saddle clamped in the middle of the rails.

This, along with the 0 rise stem that is on the headset top cap gives quite a "forward" position, and feels like I can make good power easily.

I set a bunch of PR's round Regents Park on this bike last week- beating times I'd set on the geared road bike.

So it feels fast, and seems to be fast.

Of course, I've done a bit more training since I last took the road bike round Regents Park, so that data might be misleading.

Anyway, rode into work this morning on the cross bike, much lazier angles, layback post, much further back from the pedals and it felt slow as anything- like I could not develop much power at all.

This time I had a power meter, and I was producing ~280 watts, but it felt harder than that should feel, if that makes sense?

Anyway, if I push the saddle forward on the crosser to match the Langster then I'll shorten the effective top tube by quite a bit- just under 3cm I think.

This sounds less than ideal- I last ran a 150mm stem in the min-nineties.

Am I likely just over-estimating the saddle position thing here, where the actual culprit is going from 22mm tubs to 35mm cross tyres?

match the position of the langster on your cross bike and see how it feel.

the position feel fast, but will it be comfortable for several hours?

sat on the internet bored this evening and shocked at how many people are riding around on bikes the wrong size and more upsettingly how many people are riding custom bikes that don't fit! why get custom and still get it wrong?
it is possible to have an unacceptable amount of headset spacers and seat post.

sick of moremoneythansense cyclists. rant over.

Don't you know? Jaunty saddle angle is all in this season.

Anyone have an opinion of Bike Science in Putney? I have emailed bike whisperer to ask about the waiting list, but if it's going to be a while then I might use these instead - I want to sort it out quickly because of a back injury. Its also about 5 minutes away from my house which is nice

Situation: applying power, seated.
Issue: sliding forward on the saddle until perched on the nose
Cause?

Magnets.

A while ago you said Ryan suggested you need a 56cm, can you elaborated more on that?

He thought the 575mm top tube on my road bike was too long for me.

is your saddle pointing down?

No, on my own bikes the saddle is dead level, on the bike where I moved forward the saddle was very slightly nose up.

I wouldn't have though that there's anything unusual about your position shifting with different levels of effort.

If I'm giving it the beans (sustained 13 / 14 mph bursts of 30 or 40 seconds each*), I'll be further forward. And I have a bike fit almost every other week.

• Or, rather, I had a bike fit a few weeks ago that agreed with the bike fit 3 years ago.
  
  

** Downhill - after all, I'm not a machine.

Oh right. You need to ensure your fit triangle is the same as your other bikes. Check the horizontal distance between your BB centreline and your saddle tip for a start. Then your saddle tip to bars, horizontal and drop.

Easy way to measure the BB to saddle tip is to lean your bike against an internal corner in your house, with the edge lining up with your BB centreline. Then get a set square or ruler and measure the distance between the wall edge and your saddle tip

I was really just wondering if sliding forward was a known symptom of some aspect of a bike fit

Look at the next TT in the Giro - They'll be constantly shifting their arses back in the saddle as they slide forward (or backwards - different riders do different things). The UCI even has rules about putting grips on the seats.

If I'm giving it the beans (sustained 13 / 14 mph bursts of 30 or 40 seconds each*), I'll be further forward. And I have a bike fit almost every other week.

This.

Did exactly the same with every bike (also incidentally a bike fit the agree with the fit 3 years ago too).

The TM01 have a 74 degrees seat tube, so it steeper than your Cannondale, so I don't think the saddle set being too far back is the issue*.

*unless of course Evans somehow set it too far back.

I wouldn't have though that there's anything unusual about your position shifting with different levels of effort.

Agreed. In fact that's something I particularly like about the Arione saddle.

I tested them back to back (TMR01 and my S6) and given the same road conditions (dreadful) and the same power, I stayed in one place in the S6 and shifted forward (really dramatically, which is why I mention this) on the TMR01.

Arione on both of them.

It's why I have an Adamo on the TT - so I can sit on the nose, and still have feeling in my nuts a day later.

Sliding forward on the seat with periods of increased effort allows you to sit more over the bottom bracket with your legs over the pedals. You can then sit back into the saddle for a more comfortable ride when you are not going all out. I tend to do this on mine. If you are constantly on the front of the saddle it may be worth trying to adjust the fore-aft a bit or trying out a frame with a steeper seat tube to see if that helps?

There is an interesting article from Dave Moulton about frame geometry on this:

http://www.davemoultonregistry.com/Cycling%2011.13.1976%20Moulton%20Frame%20Article.pdf

I was really just wondering if sliding forward was a known symptom of some aspect of a bad aids

No, it's a known aspect of slevless. The lighter top end means the moon's gravity can't work as well and so you don't follow tide patterns rather you fall to earth, much like a snowflake in January.