Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

If you have a truing stand or similar you can just tape the new rim to old wheel and move spokes across one by one.

thanks it worked a treat, I also taped the crossed over spokes to help maintain the pattern.

I've got no stand so truing got really triesome really quickly. will be popping down the lbs when I can to get it finished

I have some cheapy shimano road wheels which I think could do with being trued and generally tightened up. I could have a go but I would rather someone with a bit more experience did it. Does anyone have any suggestion where I should go? Would consider good value specialists or even a forum member that would do it for cash and/or beers.

Where you based?

I'm in Islington.

I could do them for you but I'm based in rotherhithe.

I'm in Islington.
Holloway cycles. Probably looking at 20 quid for the pair. Why not give it a go yourself first. Good practice and lbs will sort it if it goes wrong!

Which rims could I use to replace some knackered a57 sp pros from Planet x (whilst keeping same hubs and spokes) - and where would be best to get them?

You'll need to ask PX what the rim's ERD is if you don't want to try and measure yourself

I'll be up at Racer Rosa bicycles in Walthamstow E17 tomorrow building wheels from 11.00 ish. Drop in if you need any advice or help. And check out the lovely made to measure frames.

I could do them for you but I'm based in rotherhithe.

That would be nice, but I might go with the local choice first - I haven't transport to be running around with wheels.

OTOH, I have sent you a PM.

Holloway cycles. Probably looking at 20 quid for the pair. Why not give it a go yourself first. Good practice and lbs will sort it if it goes wrong!

Thanks, will look into that. I have thought about doing it myself, and have successfully built wheels before, but I reckon my skills would only get me to where they are now.... so looking for someone who can get them that extra little bit to properly tight and true.

Looking for advice on a rear wheel build, 2 questions: First I have two wheels to take apart for the rims, one is a Mavic 195 and the other is a Fir Net 97, which one would you go for? I can't find much on the Mavic and the Net 97's are heavy. And for spoke pattern, should I just do regular 3cross, or is it ok to run a 3leading 3 trailing on the rear?

^ I built some wheels once..... but anyhow I spent a lot of time looking into the 3 leading 3 trailing pattern, and that is what I did in the end. It has the same strength as the normal 3cross pattern give or take a bit. There are the same number of spokes at the same angle across the radius, so it has the same rotational strength.

That was what I was told. And I used it on a rear, fixed as well, and had no probs with it.

EDIT: I did say "once", so take the advice with that in mind.

Will do, Thanks

brake wear should be a factor in your choice. Hold a straight edge against the rim and try to see how much metal has gone from each.

3leading 3 trailing

Utterly pointless. While it's true that the spokes won't notice the difference (unless, like most of the morons who proudly post they 3L/3R pics on teh internetz, you fuck up the interlacing), the hub flanges will.

Ok, is the normal 3cross is better because the lateral forces on the hub flange is more even, rather than having 3 pulling in and 3 pulling out?
Front wheel:

And the wear on the braking surfaces is negligible

Ok, is the normal 3cross is better because the lateral forces on the hub flange is more even, rather than having 3 pulling in and 3 pulling out?

It's about the tangential forces in the flange. With alternating lead/trail, every spoke is adjacent to one pulling in the opposite direction, so the stresses (circumferential component) largely cancel out, leaving just the radial component.

Anyway, it's your funeral, but we haven't arrived at the common lacings by accident.

Cool Cool, I will head your advice for the rear wheel, it is going to be built up on a system ex hub, so rather not test how strong that metal is and I am riding a 4cross front wheel at the moment so will stick with that, do you have any wisdom on the rim selection?

This is exactly what I was talking about

1 Attachment

I see the folly of my ways, if I wanted to remedy that, I would unlace the spokes? Or just build it three cross? haha, and I take that as there is no real difference in those rims other than one has a slightly deeper section making it stiffer, but heavier?

Just making sure, this is bad?

Yes, there are outbound spokes going inside inbound spokes at the first crossing. If you interlace at all (and it isn't necessarily suitable for every build), the only place it should happen is at the last crossing before the rim.

Ok, thank you mdcc_tester, off to build my 3cross rear.

anyone have experience building with these?

I'm guessing that you'd add 7-8mm of spoke length to use them?

http://www.royceuk.co.uk/Stealth-Nipples-each.html

anyone have experience building with these?

I'm guessing that you'd add 7-8mm of spoke length to use them?

http://www.royceuk.co.uk/Stealth-Nipples-each.html

have wanted to try them but the price is too much for me. with longer nipples you have extra rotational weight, not a problem during a steady time trail, especially indoors.

i just got these today http://www.amclassic.com/en/products/components/spokenipples.php

they own the patent but Pillar and CN Spoke make them too. it might be possible to modify the 16mm version so that the nipple is hidden inside the rim. the long squared area would need to be cut off, the spoke would still have support in the hole. Ill check the thread length on the 14mm nipples I have later