Furry's fat and long bikes

^ You just thought that the bike was somehow lacking in complexity & so decided to add some more ;-)

Its ironic really.

The frame is designed with a 90mm stem in mind. Not really new school hardtail design. But then this was'nt originally a hard tail.

I then picked up some Cut-H bars, which required a 30-40mm shorter stem (doesnt feel like that, but its what the Jones site says).

Then my Lefty arrived and I find I need 90mm of stem for the bars to clear the strut....

Like raaaaiiiiiiaaaaan on your........

I would have thought those kind of bars gave you more options for reach? Just looked at the info on the Jones site. I'm sure I've seen some people use 100mm+ stems with similar bars.

Just a case of trying them out I guess. If they don't work, I'll give you £20 for them :-)

Can't wait to see the fat bike built up SF.

Just think there's me planning a Nature Boy build around winter with 32c tyres - they seem tiny in comparison!

Are they're many cyclists around your neck of the woods during winter?

The brake mount is somewhat forward. But they sweep back nearly to the steerer. So yeah, I'll just have to see.

Very tempted to chuck my midge bars on. Run it with cable discs and v-brake drop levers (which I already have), and drop the Paul thumbie. Running the TT level as a bar-end instead.

Anyway. Headset ordered. Just brakes left.

Frame - Triton Ti Custom
Fork Cannondale Lefty max 140 PBR
Headset - Hope
Seatpost - Triton Ti 0 offset
Handlebars - Jones CutH
Stem - J&L OversizeTi 90mm, 5deg
Saddle - Fizik GobiXM
Handlebartape - Fizik Microtex + gel
Crankset - RaceFace Atlas
Bottom Bracket - RaceFace Ext bearing
Chainring - Homegrown Single speed 31T
Chain - Shimano XTR
Cassette - Shimano XTR 11-36T
Levers Sram TT900 + Paul thumbie
Cableouters - Gore Sealed, Ride on
Cableinners - Gore Sealed, Ride on
Front mech - Superstar components Chainkeeper
Rear mech - Sram X.0
Rim Tape - Surly Fattape
Brakes - Hope M4
Rims - Vicious Cycles Graceful fat sheba
Hubs - Project 321 Lefty
Hubs - Hope Pro II Fatsnow
Skewers - Salsa QR
Spokes - DT Swiss SuperComp
Nipples - DT Swiss alloy
Tyre(front) - Surly Big fat larry (home studded)
Tyre (back) - Surly Big fat larry (home studded)
Tube(front) - Nokian Gazzaloddi
Tube (back) - Nokian Gazzaloddi
Pedals - Crank Bros Mallet

Can't wait to see the fat bike built up SF.

Just think there's me planning a Nature Boy build around winter with 32c tyres - they seem tiny in comparison!

Are they're many cyclists around your neck of the woods during winter?

I've done several nordic winters on 45mm tyres, and that includes weekly circuits of the local water reservare. Where the roads become packed snow, due to salting restrictions.

The city I live in has been deemed Europes worst cycling town for several years running. People just dont cycle here. Cnuts.

this is an awesome thread, so over the top and so much fun. one day i will own a fat bike and i will be happy

http://www.photoboxgallery.com/cw-photos/photo?photo_id=3554588775&vendor%5Fid=3013738

Now that looks like fun.

4hrs 10mins for the end 2 end. Chapeau.

http://www.photoboxgallery.com/cw-photos/photo?photo_id=3554588775&vendor%5Fid=3013738

Now that looks like fun.

4hrs 10mins for the end 2 end. Chapeau.

Was looking at that on MTBR.

I kinda expected a fat bike to require a little more man handling. As well as having horrible rolling weight + resistance. Which would make 4+ hours sound bloody hard work. Not that I would know.

.....Yet

Link?

He went past me on the road section like I was standing still.

He was 59th overall.

#musttrainharder.

Fatbikes aren't as hard work as people think. I almost feel faster on mine. Not that I ride it much. It's bramble season, and those fucking huge tyres get a shit load of punctures.

Link?

He went past me on the road section like I was standing still.

He was 59th overall.

#musttrainharder.

Just a single post.

http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat-bike-air-action-shots-tech-terrain-794662-4.htm

Some small bits have started arriving....

top deck for the longbike, with an extra seat, and a strap to grab. So thats ready for child seat removal. (Well it would be if my replacement crank arrived, and I had the wheel covers sorted.)

Hope 1 1/8" external headset, hope grip doctors, and a hope seatpost clamp.

Did mock ups of various bar set-ups. If I mount the brakes forward of the crossbar, and the thumbie on the crossbar. I get to use all the hand positions without hinderance, use the brakes while gripping the bars with lobster gloves on, and both gear lever, and lefty lock-out are pretty close to my thumbs (usable without realeasing the bar).

Seems like over planning. But I spent ages thinking this through. The downside being, that I can no longer run pogies.

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^ Had to google "pogies". Have you seen the new Surly Moloko bars?

I like the extra crossbar for fitting lights & stuff. Steel though, so no good for a weight weenie like you* ;-)

• Longbike excepted.
  

I havent really decided my light mounting. I want to buy a second MagicShine 900 lumen LED. Then mount one on the underside of the bars, just stem side of the thumbie, and one on the lefty fork.

So I get a big spread for general riding. Plus I can turn off the bar mounted light for better terrain judgement with the lower mounted light.

Like mudguards, light mounting always ends up being far more of a PITA than you'd ever expect though. So we'll see.

^ Had to google "pogies". Have you seen the new Surly Moloko bars?

I like the extra crossbar for fitting lights & stuff. Steel though, so no good for a weight weenie like you* ;-)

• Longbike excepted.
  
  

An extra bar for lights is cool, i remember a fad back at school for mounting as many lights as possible on the front bars. Like a bike version of a Vespa/Lambretta.

I've commuting with a total of 6 lights for a while (3 front, 3 rear). When it comes to being seen

Quantity > Quality.

Plus I can turn off the bar mounted light for better terrain judgement with the lower mounted light.

Does this work for you? My experience is that a bright light highlights the front of an obstacle/ bump but leaves the back completely black and invisible. Maybe it's just my reaction time is slow, but I sort of like to know in advance if there is anything lurking in that blackness like a tree root or a pothole.

Does this work for you? My experience is that a bright light highlights the front of an obstacle/ bump but leaves the back completely black and invisible. Maybe it's just my reaction time is slow, but I sort of like to know in advance if there is anything lurking in that blackness like a tree root or a pothole.

Sorry that was pretty unclear.

I was thinking specifically of winter road/trail riding. A powerful light, mounted high up, gives a kind of white out effect on ice and snow. A lower light causes small shadows that allow you to better judge the snow or ice.

Off road. Yeah its nice to have both angles, and eliminate any shadows. the ability to switch between these situation is kinda what I'm looking for.

OK...quick question.

In my mind it's perfectly possible to run a non offset 135mm rear on a fatbike with a 1OOmm BB, so long as it's only ever going to use either SS or internal geared rear hubs and single ring chainset right?

The only reason a Pugsley is offset is for chain clearance with triple chainsets and full cassettes right?

OK...quick question.

In my mind it's perfectly possible to run a non offset 135mm rear on a fatbike with a 1OOmm BB, so long as it's only ever going to use either SS or internal geared rear hubs and single ring chainset right?

The only reason a Pugsley is offset is for chain clearance with triple chainsets and full cassettes right?

Might be doable. Like you say you just need to clear the tyre. Chainline would likely be better with a 170mm rear I guess.

Math time.

Standard MTB chainline = 47.5, with 68mm BB
So Fattbike chainline with 100mm BB = 32/2 + 47.5 = 63.5mm
width of 3.8"(4") fat tyre on 80mm rim = 100mm (ish)
width of chain = 6mm (?)
Radius at max tyre width 372mm

You have 44.5mm clearance at the sprocket.
You have 60.5mm clearance at the chainring.
You need at least 50mm tyre clearance 372mm from the rear axle.
Your chainstays are Xmm in length.

Probably easiest to draw it out on some graph paper. But my guess is it would work. (That example uses the middle position of a triple chainset). But the chainline looks nasty.

I'm thinking that my Pugsley was offset 17.5mm, but again, this was to allow for clearance in all gears. With an Alfine out back, and a single ring up front I reckon it's do-able, and should mean a non dished rear wheel. So even though the hub stance is narrower, the lack of dish should keep it plenty strong. Certainly more so than my old offset pugsley rear, which never gave me trouble anyway.

I'm thinking that my Pugsley was offset 17.5mm, but again, this was to allow for clearance in all gears. With an Alfine out back, and a single ring up front I reckon it's do-able, and should mean a non dished rear wheel. So even though the hub stance is narrower, the lack of dish should keep it plenty strong. Certainly more so than my old offset pugsley rear, which never gave me trouble anyway.

I instinctively worried that spoke bracing angle would be poor, as the rim drillings are reall far apart. But the flange spacing of an alfine might well be as good as a 170mm cassette hub.

As my muddled post shows (kinda) the fattest par of the tyre is closest to the chainring.

I've seen a Mundo running a fat rear with IGH, and standard BB. It involved using a roller to coax the chain away from the tyre.

Without a bike to try it on I can't be sure...But I would guess that even non offset, the chain should be at least as far from the tyre as a middle ring/lower gears combo with the 17.5mm offset?

Without a bike to try it on I can't be sure...But I would guess that even non offset, the chain should be at least as far from the tyre as a middle ring/lower gears combo with the 17.5mm offset?

At the hub
I'm guessing the Alfine has something like a 47.5mm chainline. So you're going to need to buy say 6mm to clear a 100mm tyre.

At the BB
The outer chainring is 7mm out fro the center ring. so the chainline there is 54.5mm (with standard BB). Which is enough to clear the 100mm tyre already. But its bloody close.

Thats^ assuming a perfectly flat chainline. Pulling the BB end out will have a good effect, as that closest to the tyres widest point.

Have you considered a DH standard 83mm BB width?
Would give you better Q-factor.
Plus the chainline of a single outer mounted ring is 62mm.

I think 100mm is too out of balance witht the rear end.

The problem comes back to tyre clearance again then though.