Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Sounds the wrong way round if you're looking to improve the spoke bracing angle on the dished side. Just stick to 3x all round and one kind of spoke, keeping it simple has worked fine for generations.

I'd take DT Alpine III over Sapim Strong, the thin middles on the DT spokes promote load sharing by being more stretchy

Sapim do an "Alpine III" style triple butted spoked called Force, which has 'forced' it's way through Sapim's lamentable distribution into an actual shop

Wonders will never cease

Sounds the wrong way round if you're looking to improve the spoke bracing angle on the dished side. Just stick to 3x all round and one kind of spoke, keeping it simple has worked fine for generations.

I'd take DT Alpine III over Sapim Strong, the thin middles on the DT spokes promote load sharing by being more stretchy

Thanks for that:)
I though it was simply to reduce the length of the off side spokes (thereby equalising tension), hadn't considered the bracing angle... Been making most of my wheels 3x for years just wondered if this might improve things.
If it ain't broke and all that:)
Though mine is, hence the project:(

Thanks for the advice on the DT Alpines, they sound like a good bet, do you happen to know their max dia?

Cheers,
Ivan

Alpine IIIs are 2.3mm at the bend, haven't found a hub yet that I couldn't lace with them.

Alpine IIIs are 2.3mm at the bend, haven't found a hub yet that I couldn't lace with them.

Ordered:)

Not sure if I'm going mad but I'm sure I've seen a table that listed guides to spoke tensions based on the number of spokes and lacing patterns. Anyone know what I'm on about (and no, I'm not talking about the table park have for the TM-1)?

So tensions listed in Nm?

Not sure if I'm going mad but I'm sure I've seen a table that listed guides to spoke tensions based on the number of spokes and lacing patterns.

Yes, you're going mad. Spoke count and lacing on their own are not determinants of spoke tension. Spoke guage/material and principally rim strength are the determinants of maximal spoke tension. The combination of geometry (flange sizes, rim size, count/lacing etc.) with load regime will give the minimum spoke tension at which no spoke will lose all of its tension while the wheel load is within the design envelope.

Yes, you're going mad. Spoke count and lacing on their own are not determinants of spoke tension. Spoke guage/material and principally rim strength are the determinants of maximal spoke tension. The combination of geometry (flange sizes, rim size, count/lacing etc.) with load regime will give the minimum spoke tension at which no spoke will lose all of its tension while the wheel load is within the design envelope.

From what I remember spoke type/material/gauges were also listed. But ultimately it is down to rim manufacturer's ratings.

Going to be building new wheels soon. Probablly Campag record / DT competition / Open pro CD.

I've already bought the hubs and they're 32h front and rear. Can anyone recommend what would be the best lacing patterns for general road riding or point me towards an article that does?

i always thought 3x was a good strong standard wheel build
they way bikes come out of the shops

sheldon brown will advise you of the various reasons for various lacing patterns

3-cross all round, it's what Campag assumed you'd so when they made the hubs. 32-spokes counts as more than plenty these days, so there is no need to go chasing after the tiny axial stiffness gains available with other patterns, which come with detriments which make them not worthwhile unless you're down to very low spoke counts and are getting desperate.

Hi - anyone recommend a forumonger or shop in Camden area for a wheel build (set) in a short timeframe?

Cheers

Hello all. My first post. A question: I have Ofmega high flange hubs on Ambrosio Extra Rims. They are a nightmare to fit a modern tyre onto. Is it a good idea to replace the old rims with something modern? Thanks

Hi - anyone recommend a forumonger or shop in Camden area for a wheel build (set) in a short timeframe?

Cheers

http://lunarcycles.co.uk/

Hello all. My first post. A question: I have Ofmega high flange hubs on Ambrosio Extra Rims. They are a nightmare to fit a modern tyre onto. Is it a good idea to replace the old rims with something modern? Thanks

If your rims are 700c (622mm) which I believe they are, then HTFU and learn how to fit tyres properly. Yes, some tyre/rim combinations can be a bit of a bitch but, generally, you should be able to fit tyres to rims without using tyre levers. If you are trying to fit 700c tyres to older 27x1-1/4 (630mm) rims then you are indeed an idiot.

Hope that helps and sorry if I've misjudged you.....

I was going to post:

"99% of tyre fitting problems are due to poor technique"

but I thought it might be a bit presumptuous. How wrong I was.

Tell it how it is, I reckon.
Besides, it's not like the tester to hold back ;)

It's always possible that cauchi8 just caught me on a bad night when my patience for this kind of nonsense is at a particularly low point, but people who know me say that I'm always like this and that I'm just a curmudgeonly old cunt....

Sometimes I think that 99% of questions in 'mechanics & fixin' deserve the response 'you are indeed an idiot', but then again, I'm just an idiot.

Wham, bam, thank you mam. Just dive in sans lube.

I believe the wheels are 700c. No markings (I can find) but velobase said Ambrosio 19 Extra are 700c (622mm) (http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=4540eb2f-e7b5-49ea-97c9-a692b39a2ec4.

There is a massive effort/time taken (using levers) versus fitting the same tyre (Continental Ultra Race 700c) to a Mavic Open Sport. Maybe, I should hit the protein shakes and stop worrying about braking a nail.

I probably should have added that the front rim is bent. I want to keep the hub but wasn't sure whether to source another Ambrosio rim, replace with a new rim or a complete wheel instead.

Idiotically yours.

No offence meant, I'm pretty sure none was taken.
You have entered forum life at the deep end and have taken to it very well. Keep treading water, pretty soon you'll be doing lengths (fnar, fnar. Lube optional).

Keep practicing mounting tyres. Get someone with experience of a good technique to show you how. Someone local is bound to be along soon.

Although with some rim tyre combo's you will still probably prefer to use levers and learn to be careful.

How to fit a Marathon Plus Tyre.mp4 - YouTube

This Murray Walker impersonator offers some good tips for fitting tight tyres.

I'm looking for some light silver rims for my Mack's. Is there some lighter option than open pro's (435g)? 32h (700c) Clincher and silver color.

Kinlin XR-200 @ 385 grams

Kinlin XR-200 @ 385 grams

Have someody tried those rims? Is these any good?