Polo Bikes

I'd be surprised if the dropouts came as standard in 14mm.
Swapping a hollow axle for a solid one, the ease with which you can do this will probably vary from hub to hub.
Whilst disc hubs will have less distance between the flanges than the equivalent non-disc hub, I would guess that the difference between a 135mm disc hub and a 120mm track hub will be negligible.

Thanks for your help. So, in conclusion then, a 135 spacing so I can use MTB hubs/wheels is fine. There shouldn't be any comparability issues.

#worldsworstmechanic

135mm if using discs (or a combination of discs and sometimes rim brakes).
120mm if not (more aerodynamic with less ankle bashing).

135mm if using discs (or a combination of discs and sometimes rim brakes).
120mm if not (more aerodynamic with less ankle bashing).

The reason I thought 135 was best was because I could swap out rear wheels fairly easily/cheaply. With 120 you're more limited. Plus I would need to have a wheel built initially.

That's the main reason I wanted to go for MTB sizes, a myriad of available parts should I break anything

...more aerodynamic...
Oi! Haven't you read the rules thread recently?

I've put it on ignore since it got silly.

That's the main reason I wanted to go for MTB sizes, a myriad of available parts should I break anything

Fair enough, agreed that you are more likely to source spare 135mm 26" wheels than 120mm.

An undished 3-cross wheel is pretty easy to build yourself if you're looking to save some cash.

I am going for V brakes

Big mistake right there. Anyone not using disks in polo is doing it wrong.

#justsayin

Are you trying to prop up the share price of the family business or summat?

Anyone not using disks in polo is doing it wrong.

Really? Discs are far superior in the wet, but offer little-to-no advantage in the dry in my opinion.

If you struggle to keep your wheels true, then yep, run discs, but otherwise spend your money elsewhere. We travel too slowly in bike polo to take advantage of them and they come with a weight penalty.

ANY v-brake will be able to unweight the rider and provide optimal braking up to about 15mph. The additional stopping power of discs will cost you more money and will simply result in an endo, or skid.

Big mistake right there. Anyone not using disks in polo is doing it wrong.

#justsayin

Pfffft

I love my dual v-brakes, but they require mega-true wheels to work how I want them to, which in turn requires wheelcovers. And normal cables are vulnerable in crashes.

I'm thinking of front hyrdaulic disc only, hose routed through the top cap, no wheelcovers. I reckon it would be bike-weight neutral, reduce wheel weight by losing the wheelcovers, and allow one-finger braking which I hope would improve stability/control.

That's weird - it looks like it's brakeless.

it was brakeless, it's not anymore.

I've tried all types of brakes for polo, hydraulic FBO so far performs best. One finger braking, and the modulation is amazing compared to V's. brake never grabs unexpectedly, it just works. I carry an old avid BB7 attached to an old lever just in case it gets fcked but so far it's awesome. The holy grail for me would be a MAX setup through the top cap, just not practical tho.

I'm selling a pair (front/back) of brand new/unused Max Power disk brake bash guards, powdercoated black... £40... Come get 'em... Call me... You got my number, right?
#disksaregay
#reflounce

I've tried all types of brakes for polo, hydraulic FBO so far performs best. One finger braking, and the modulation is amazing compared to V's. brake never grabs unexpectedly, it just works. I carry an old avid BB7 attached to an old lever just in case it gets fcked but so far it's awesome. The holy grail for me would be a MAX setup through the top cap, just not practical tho.

+100

Why isn't it practical? I'm going to do it with hydro disk as soon as i can get mike to help me bleed them, surely you want that hose as safe as possible. But deffo carry spare brake setup, my hose kinked and started pissing dot fluid.

I just bought the hollow star nut/bolt on CRC for 3.99. Dead easy.
Also going to look into braided hosing.

found some, 3.99 from CRC

Only reason its not practical for me is not being able to remove the brake complete without disassembling. I guess that doesn't really matter if it breaks, just rip the hose out of the lever... Plus it means defacing my nice red cosmic cap.

Oh, you don't need to mod the cap? Now I'm interested...

Only reason its not practical for me is not being able to remove the brake complete without disassembling. I guess that doesn't really matter if it breaks, just rip the hose out of the lever... Plus it means defacing my nice red cosmic cap.

exactly.

I just made my cargo bike more cosmic

Oh, you don't need to mod the cap? Now I'm interested...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=57624

Do FBOers find that they miss the ability to skid? I don't skid much, just the odd little whip here and there, but it feels like it helps with positioning sometimes. Maybe you just get used to stoppying instead?

Looks like your BMW.

But way more awesome.

I see Paul CowHen lurking, has your new frame arrived yet?

Nah, deposit is payed so it's just a waiting game now. Still a month or so before I can ride it anyway.

Skids make you look cool.