Fixed Super Light Super Safe

He does have a spreadsheet, i've seen it! He must have been watching youtube videos on how to insert hyperlinks as it was full of 'em.

Spreadsheet full of porn site usernames and passwords doesn't count.

He's unemployed. He has time for both spreadsheets.

If you 'flat suddenly' you've probably already hit a bump and pinched. Unless you're prone to incorrectly installing tubes or incorrectly aligning brake pads, most flats will give you plenty of time to slow down. It's not like he's racing on 'em.

Just being paraniod about my own carbon clinchers.

20mm rims with 28spokes? 32 spokes? or 38mm with 20 spokes?

Who are you looking at for the rims?

If it's farsports then I stand by my earlier point....

This 50mm is meant to be 410-30g: http://www.farsports.cn/ViewProduct.aspx?id=576

Are there any other cheap carbon clinchers that come much under that? Quick look shows 20mm being 395-415g...

...if spokes are c. 5g then you should be be able to drop the front to something like 16h and still be lighter. Then 24h rear - maybe in some funky half radial lacing patern using a 36h(????) hub.

http://www.farsports.cn/ViewProduct.aspx?id=536

Item No. FSW20-C
Depth: 20mm
Weight: 405g+/-10g

http://www.farsports.cn/ViewProduct.aspx?id=533

Item No. FSW38-C
Depth: 38mm

Weight: 430g+/-10g

http://www.farsports.cn/ViewProduct.aspx?id=576

Item No. FSP50-C

Depth: 50mm

Weight: 420g+/-10g

As smallfurry said it's not worth under-building the rear, With 50mm and the right spokes I'd *guess *24h would be cool. On the front I guess just work out what the lowest spoke count you can go with a 20mm rim is... if 16 exists I guess it's possible... but I'd still go with those FSP50-C's things in a 28/16h to Tune hubs (as per 'tester's suggestion), internal alu nips, veloplugs, and ultremos.

I'd also add that deeper rims = shorter spokes = less weight.

Internal nips might sound like a PITA (cuz they are). But the contact surface with the rim is probably 60% bigger. So for heavier cyclist demanding higher spoke tensions (esp with low spoke counts). Its a nice idea. I even went as far as using nipple washers. Threading them onto the second half of the spokes, when you could no longer poke the spoke all the way through the rim, was fecking horrible.

NB: My veloplugs are getting a touch loose now. So its really important after a few retensions. To check the plugs as you refit the inner.

Are the velo plugs lighter than rim tape?

Yarp

Wow, didn't see that coming, rimtape is hardly the heaviest stuff around. What's the difference out of interest?

EDIT - googled it, 5g vs 20g. I am actually astounded by this. I need to get out more.

Not a vast amount but it is rotational weight at the rim edge .. and as a store says every little counts ;) or something like that!

I need those in my life

What, more p_nct_res?

Just leave the bike at home and walk. 0 grams.

and, with iain, probably faster. just as much chance of hitting a bus though.

great wheel advices, many thx. have to ask for prices now.

Veloplugs are handy if you have internal nipples. I have them on a couple of bikes and never had an issue with them.

Eingang what tyres did you try? I am aware that you binned the tubular wheel, so not trying to be a pain in the arse but just wondering if you had tried (for example) the Sprinter Gatorskin (as I am trying those next).

after the sale of the wheel crashed i decided to order the gatorskin and give the front tub another try. now i just need a light rearwheel :)

Veloplugs are handy if you have internal nipples

How hard is it to pull a plastic tape off? Sure, Veloplugs are more convenient than Velox cloth tape, but snap-on plastic rim tapes are more convenient than either.

How hard is it to pull a plastic tape off? Sure, Veloplugs are more convenient than Velox cloth tape, but snap-on plastic rim tapes are more convenient than either.

My only experiance with snap-on non adhesive tape. Is with Surly 65mm wide stuff and a Gracious Fat Sheba rim.

There's a C work to describe it.....

.....it aint 'Convenient'

Maybe it gets easier to use in more normal sizings.

^^ I've only had a couple of experiences with plastic tape and both put me off it for life... it reminded me of the stuff boxes of printing paper are wrapped in. The elastic band stuff is probably better, but I'd rather have velox.

cutted the fork today, only 1 small spacer left . next will be changing the front tub tire and ordering the parts for the rear wheel.

current weight: 6.67kg (with mavic ellipse wheel set!)
could be close to 6kg with the new wheel set.

if you sell the ellipse's id probably be interested in the front ;)

cutted the fork today, only 1 small spacer left . next will be changing the front tub tire and ordering the parts for the rear wheel.

current weight: 6.67kg (with mavic ellipse wheel set!)
could be close to 6kg with the new wheel set.

I'd like to build one of these frame up to under 6Kg. Using the budget friendly components I've listed on this thread it would be doable.

Soon.

found another part were I can save weight: quick release skewer (front wheel)

currently: original ffwd -> 44g
asap: tune u20 -> 10.5g

80 euro for one front quick release skewer :o