Fixed Super Light Super Safe

i want to buy a carbon clincher track wheel set via asia.
to save weight my first option would be a 20mm rim with 24h (front+rear).
as i'm weighing 93kg do i need more holes or should i go for 38mm? spokes 3 crossed?

Why clinchers- ease of puncture repair I assume?

exactly. sold the ffwd f5r due to punctures. i only ride the seta in the city.

i want to buy a carbon clincher track wheel set via asia.
to save weight my first option would be a 20mm rim with 24h (front+rear).
as i'm weighing 93kg do i need more holes or should i go for 38mm? spokes 3 crossed?

You still didn't tell us what they are for

to be honest: city riding, as i quit riding touring on a fixed bike.
but careful city riding, not smashing cobbles or curbes

Eingang what tyres did you try? I am aware that you binned the tubular wheel, so not trying to be a pain in the arse but just wondering if you had tried (for example) the Sprinter Gatorskin (as I am trying those next).

i just tried the conti sprinter, as the wheel came with them. but after walking 2km to the next subway station while i had a big puncture i decided to sell it and buy a complete clincher wheelset

Clinchers are much more suitable for around town riding.

Agreed. However, if you are going for carbon fibre and lightweight, I think tubs make more sense.

If you were trying to be sensible then you'd get open pro's, or similar.

Tom rode my Open Pro CD's on the Paris-Roubaix and they were fine, plenty strong enough.

i always had a look at the "old" rims like open-pro, ambrosio, campa omega.

but between all my searches i wanted to get feedback or suggestions from here/mdcc

Farsports FSW20-T 20mm tubular rim is 300g +/-10g.
Farsports FSW20-C 20mm clincher rim is 345g +/-10g.
Mavic Open Pro clincher rim is 425g +/-10g.

That's according to info sent to me by Farsports for the carbon rims, and the Weight Weenies listings for the Mavic rim.

so at most a 200g difference?

found the ww list in parallel, 357g for american classic 350 rims, but i don't want to have an unanodized braking surface

The carbon rims are drilled 20 or 24 holes, the mavics 32H.

At Eingangs weight I'd feel uncomfortable running 20mm rims with 20 spokes though.

My superlight 50mm tubular rims are ~310g.

20mm rims with 28spokes? 32 spokes? or 38mm with 20 spokes?

to be honest: city riding

Mavic A719* on Novatec** hubs, 32h, ACI ss db spokes 3x all round.

*or any of the obvious options, Velocity A23, Salsa Delgado X, H+ TB14 etc.
** or whatever more bling hub you want to waste your money on

As long as you don't have to come back down the hill.
As long as it's steep enough to drop your speed below 20km/h
As long as your non-aero wheels save at least 500g

Then yes, lighter wheels would be faster than aero wheels.

Fair enough. Kinda justifys my own wheel choice, which is nice.

i want to buy a carbon clincher track wheel set via asia.
to save weight my first option would be a 20mm rim with 24h (front+rear).
as i'm weighing 93kg do i need more holes or should i go for 38mm? spokes 3 crossed?

Why do you want 3x? Simply crossing the spokes more times does not add strength. Having the spoke leave the hub flange perpendicular to the radial does. On a 24 or 28 spoked wheel 2x will get you closest to this. On a 32 or 36 spoked wheel 3x will get you closest to this.

Agreed. However, if you are going for carbon fibre and lightweight, I think tubs make more sense.

If you were trying to be sensible then you'd get open pro's, or similar.

Tom rode my Open Pro CD's on the Paris-Roubaix and they were fine, plenty strong enough.

This^
You will need to do a lot of walking if you flat suddenly, and then hit a bump. I worry about the sort of impact a carbon rim bead can take, once the tyres flat.

20mm rims with 28spokes? 32 spokes? or 38mm with 20 spokes?

You should be looking at the front and rear separately.

Front - 38mm with 20 or 18 radial spokes, 20mm with 24 or 28.

Rear - 50mm with 24, 38mm with 28, 20mm with 32

All these would work for your weight.

I would advise strongly against underbuilding the rear. If you build a flexi rear wheel. You might as well trade your nice carbon bike in for a noodle.

My chioce would be 38mm front with 20 radial spokes, and 50mm rear with 24 2x spokes. Thats a pretty versitile performance wheelset right there.

Ultimatly for city riding you should be looking at an alu clincher wheelset though.

Stans alpha road rims, laced 24 radial front, 32 3x rear.

you don't need a spreadsheet to build a bike you need spanners and wrenches

No, ed said we must. Please don't argue.

I wouldn't worry about it, Ed just copied what someone else wrote but added some poor grammar and an insult (Additionally, your spreadsheet wouldn't be up to par, it's best to leave shit like that to the professional geeks).

Em, can you make me a spreadsheet?

Geeky as it might sound. A spreadsheet would really help here. Its a good idea to get everything noted down so you can fine tune it.

don't forget to autosave and back up weekly chainbreaker

Agreed. However, if you are going for carbon fibre and lightweight, I think tubs make more sense.

If you were trying to be sensible then you'd get open pro's, or similar.

Tom rode my Open Pro CD's on the Paris-Roubaix and they were fine, plenty strong enough.

Cabron for around town isn't sensible though.

I rode Open Pros over P-R too without any issues but even though I'm heavier I have mad skillz and ride cobbles smooth as buttah.

You will need to do a lot of walking if you flat suddenly, and then hit a bump. I worry about the sort of impact a carbon rim bead can take, once the tyres flat.

If you 'flat suddenly' you've probably already hit a bump and pinched. Unless you're prone to incorrectly installing tubes or incorrectly aligning brake pads, most flats will give you plenty of time to slow down. It's not like he's racing on 'em.