Any question answered...

Tubeless FTW.

Not really sold on the whole tubeless thing. This Afan trip for instance, there were lots of rocks, but I had no pinch flats. I was running about 40psi and don't think that anything lower would've helped. And it's messy isn't it? Plus if you get a puncture you still lose pressure before the sealant works? And what if you rip the tyre?

Would'nt be messy with decent rims and tyres. I used veloity blunt 29er rims + a 26er FR rim strips + 2.55 Weirwolf tyres. Proper ghetto. Worked on the front but not the rear. But then the tyres were on clearance and the folding bead looked a bit fecked.

You dont lose much pressure with a small puncture. If your tyre rips you're buggered either way.

My issue is that our climate is such that the 29er gets sporatic use. So I've chucked a tube back in the front. I'll go back to tubeless when I replace the rear tyre (need more clearance).

The lower pressure and better rolling is noticable. The puncture protection is more dependant on use I suppose.

Sparky - Go read this. https://www.lfgss.com/thread2639.html

Search for tubeless.

One of the best upgrades I have made.

All of my cycling caps are dead.

Are there any really well made caps out there that aren't the douchey Rapha ones?

Just want to buy something where the shape or elastic isn't going to go after a few weeks.

You know, they'd last longer if you didn't wear them 100% of the time. :)

#neverseenstonehedgewithoutacapon

Considering that I swore I'd never wear one about a year ago its a remarkable change of heart.

Have been wearing them under a helmet during the winter. Might just treat myself to a new lid and get better at wearing a helmet around town this summer. Sort of solves the problem.

#neverseenstonehedgewithoutacapon

That is strange the only time I met stonehedge I saw no sign whatsoever of a castrated rooster.

Considering that I swore I'd never wear one about a year ago its a remarkable change of heart.

Have been wearing them under a helmet during the winter. Might just treat myself to a new lid and get better at wearing a helmet around town this summer. Sort of solves the problem.

Get one of these, solves both problems, and mad aero.

Right, I need a compact cranks, a very compact cranks.

the standard is 50/34, but I like to be able to have a 30t inner that are readily available, especially with a 48t big ring.

A lots of the compact cranks I see doesn't look it can go lower than 34t in the inside.

Have you looked for something dedicated to cyclocross? There were Rotor cranks on eBay for £125 the other day and you can get 40/25T chainrings.

Get one of these, solves both problems, and mad aero.

[URL="http://www.yakkayshop.com/publikationer/publikationsdetaljer.aspx?PId=8331d87f-e6d8-4f84-9916-b0ece922964c"][/URL]

Tweed is for fancy dress on crappy bikes. I've got a Mk7 British Army kevlar lid knocking around somewhere. Wonder if that'd do the trick?

I have two main bikes. One 653 racer. And one heavy kona 700c, disc braked winter/shopping/wet weather/touring kind of bike. This kona is very stiff and harsh, the racer is flexy and forgiving.

The question is regarding a tyre choice. I currently own, two Maxxis Detonators, Two Specialized Armadillo's all weather and one Conti gatorskin. They are all 25c and all wire bead.

Now, does anyone have an idea of which tyre would suit each bike the best ?

Just doing the 60 minutes of the 90 minute ride seems the most sensible and practical. Use the rest of it to warm up and warm down.

This may have to be the way I go. Trouble is I'm like that fella from the lamb chop botanising quote...find it very difficult to take it easy before/after. I'm just down the road from an abandoned velodrome though, so may just have to make the time to go down there and just hammer out a max 60 minute effort. Hoped to avoid the boredom/suffering of that though, plus the fact that if there were a conversion factor I could use, I'd have a back log of data I could look at and track improvements and trends etc. Geeky, but it entertains me.

[QUOTE=Booga;2787182]I'm thinking of putting a shorter stem on my bike, probably about 80mm. Would this be a fairly normal size stem for a 50cm frame or would it be considered a bit short and possibly a sign that the frame is too long for me?

50cm with a horizontal top tube? as other said, likely so, there are 47cm frame that come with 70mm stem.[/QUOTE]

Hi Ed, yes, with a horizontal top tube. So an 80mm stem would be acceptable?

I just had a nasty altercation with a van driver (P11 SBJ) who nearly squashed me by changing lanes (into me) whilst on his phone and without signalling. Remonstrating with him, calmly, resulting in him using his vehicle to try to run me and another cyclist off the road.

Is it worth reporting it? If so, who to? I have the other cyclists details...

I've bought a used cycle computer from eBay. The battery cover is one of those where you use a large coin to turn it loose. The groove for the coin has sheared and I can't open the cover. I was planning on filling the groove with 2 part epoxy (araldite) and cutting a new groove in that.
Is there something better (stronger) I could be using as a filler?

I just had a nasty altercation with a van driver (P11 SBJ) who nearly squashed me by changing lanes (into me) whilst on his phone and without signalling. Remonstrating with him, calmly, resulting in him using his vehicle to try to run me and another cyclist off the road.

Is it worth reporting it? If so, who to? I have the other cyclists details...

If there's a witness report him to Police.
I'm sure I've read about a similar case on here and they caught up with the guy some time later and he was cautioned/charged.

I just had a nasty altercation with a van driver (P11 SBJ) who nearly squashed me by changing lanes (into me) whilst on his phone and without signalling. Remonstrating with him, calmly, resulting in him using his vehicle to try to run me and another cyclist off the road.

Is it worth reporting it? If so, who to? I have the other cyclists details...

shop the cunt

Did Campag change the thread on their lockrings between 9 and 10 speed?

As I cannot get the lockring on a 10 speed cassette to go on the mystery wheels, which is a pain in the fucking arse.

Not sure if it was a 9 to 10 speed change, but they definitely changed the threading at some point.

here's a possible answer, read down the thread > http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=43720&start=0

Is it ok to use PVC tape as a substitute for rim tape when running 120psi?

Only if you use so many layers that you can't get the tyres on. PVC tape is very stretchy, which is fine and dandy for its intended purpose but makes it completely useless as a high pressure rim tape.

PVC tape also perishes. I used it on my dad's Dutch bike and a year later it was a mess - singed stiff tape with sand embedded in bends. Inners punctured.

Hi Ed, yes, with a horizontal top tube. So an 80mm stem would be acceptable?

Should be fine, it'll handle slightly twitchy but that's about it.

I need a 26mm lockring, and have 2 X 27's and 1 X 29.

Fucksticks.

Anyone got a 9 speed/26mm lockring, or know where I can get one?

I wanted to ride this bike tomorrow, godamnit!

£37!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Campagnolo-lock-ring-26mm-9speed-NIB-/170814551912?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c5573768#ht_500wt_1287