Any question answered...

Cool. Now I know what I want, all I need to do is find some money for them.

;)

Just got back from a great mountain biking trip to Afan. My Reba forks held up really nicely, so thanks to everyone on here for the advice about those. I think that some of those descents would have been really unwise on the old Dart bouncers.

Most of the other stuff held up pretty decently on the trip, considering that the bike has some pretty entry-level parts. The front hub is pretty much toast though, really grindy. Also the rim has a little kink. As they're no-name, heavy OEM parts I'm thinking about a new wheelset. Was looking at Hope Hoops. What do people think? Is it worth choosing a stronger rear rim as I have a hardtail? What rims are a good bet for a ~85kg rider? Are there any better options for wheels?
Will they still make that lovely angry-wasp noise?

85Kg isnt that heavy (I hope).

If you want something light'n'fast.
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/WPFRMURXCT/frm_urano_xc_team_wheelset
or
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=497

Personally I'd get some Hope ProIII hubs and lace them to some Velocity P35 rims, with super comp spokes. But I have a thing for wide rims at the moment.

I'm thinking of putting a shorter stem on my bike, probably about 80mm. Would this be a fairly normal size stem for a 50cm frame or would it be considered a bit short and possibly a sign that the frame is too long for me?

I'm veering towards Hope because I like the company and the noise they make. Also, I've never heard anyone, ever, say anything negative about Hope hubs.

I was amazed at what the current wheels stood up to: 20mph over sharp rocks the size of two fists. Brilliant. You really can have a lot of fun on a cheap mountain bike. Just not for that long...

I guess 90mm is the most common for a modern size Small. So its fine.

Anybody know where I can buy some black (preferably alloy) M5 allen bolts in London's famous London? Preferably ones pretty much like the one on the left below, probably 16mm, not sure. Ideally somewhere with a selection:

I also need some M5 nuts in black, preferably nyloc ones like this one:

Cheers. I've got a 90mm one at the moment but the position feels a tiny bit too stretched. When riding on the hoods I want to put my hands 1 - 2cm further back.

have you considered yoga?

Cheers. I've got a 90mm one at the moment but the position feels a tiny bit too stretched. When riding on the hoods I want to put my hands 1 - 2cm further back.

I'm the same mate, riding with a 100mm at the moment though, could do with a 90mm. Is yours oversized?

I'm veering towards Hope because I like the company and the noise they make. Also, I've never heard anyone, ever, say anything negative about Hope hubs.

I was amazed at what the current wheels stood up to: 20mph over sharp rocks the size of two fists. Brilliant. You really can have a lot of fun on a cheap mountain bike. Just not for that long...

I have Hope everything on the 29er, and will be doing the same on the fatty hard tail (well, except the project 321 front hub for the lefty fork). Their stuff just works, is kinda light OTP, and is servicable when it dosent work.

Its also pretty, and the hubs asound nice.

Want!

Exactly. I'd rather buy kit that I can service easily, and I love that it's made in the UK. I have Pro 2s on my road bike and a spattering of Hope elsewhere too.

Hope - Technology to a tea - YouTube

Sparky - you're up for servicing a fancy Hope hub, but are replacing your current one just 'cos it's a bit grindy? I'd strip it, if it's cup and cone it'll take a few minutes, give it a good clean and regrease and bang it back together again. They're so simple to work on and the hub may well feel like new again. All it'll cost you is a hour of your time and a bit of grease. Sealed bearings are even easier if you can source new ones. Take an adjustable spanner to that kinked rim, there's a good chance you'll have it straightened with no fuss, and I'm assuming you're running disk brakes so the kink will have no effect on braking.

Of course, if you just want new blinging wheels...

And Hope's clacketty racket is overrated.

I'm thinking of putting a shorter stem on my bike, probably about 80mm. Would this be a fairly normal size stem for a 50cm frame or would it be considered a bit short and possibly a sign that the frame is too long for me?

50cm with a horizontal top tube? as other said, likely so, there are 47cm frame that come with 70mm stem.

Sparky - you're up for servicing a fancy Hope hub, but are replacing your current one just 'cos it's a bit grindy? I'd strip it, if it's cup and cone it'll take a few minutes, give it a good clean and regrease and bang it back together again. They're so simple to work on and the hub may well feel like new again. All it'll cost you is a hour of your time and a bit of grease. Sealed bearings are even easier if you can source new ones. Take an adjustable spanner to that kinked rim, there's a good chance you'll have it straightened with no fuss, and I'm assuming you're running disk brakes so the kink will have no effect on braking.

Of course, if you just want new blinging wheels...

And Hope's clacketty racket is overrated.

This is the wheel that came fitted to a £230 mountain bike. The rubber seals over the bearings got shredded, the bearings need replacing, the wheel wants truing and a few of the spokes have completely lost tension. The nipples are also cheap and will probably be a pain in the arse to get a key on to.

I'm also planning another trip soon that will give them a good punishing. I'd like something nice that'll drop a bit of weight, as well as adding a bit of strength and rigidity.

fair enough, they sound a bit shit to me...

But at £230 all in, don't spend the same again on some fancy wheels, keep it running nicely and save for a better specimen, there's often well specced mtbs on here for sensible prices.

That's it on the left: https://twitter.com/#!/Sparkes/status/183640887287492608/photo/1

Is it ok to use PVC tape as a substitute for rim tape when running 120psi?

fair enough, they sound a bit shit to me...

But at £230 all in, don't spend the same again on some fancy wheels, keep it running nicely and save for a better specimen, there's often well specced mtbs on here for sensible prices.

Tis a good point.

You get loads more for your pennys buying complete bikes. There still a few 9 sp bargins knockin around for example

But some solid wheels with an convertable front hub (incase you upgrae to a different front axle spec). Can moved onto a new frame. If you like upgraing bit by bit.

I've been really happy with the way I've done it. Started with a 2009 Fire Mountain from Kona, bent the seatpost on a tree stump and fitted a Thomson, put some decent tires on, ditched the Darts for Rebas and now the wheels will be sorted. The frame itself has been great. Really enjoy riding it now. Brakes will want sorting eventually as well, but that can wait a while.

I thought we'd come to the conclusion that in order to justify new wheels. You needed a new frame....

Hope Hoops on XC717s here for under £300...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hope-Hoops-Pro-2-Evo-Wheels-Mavic-XC717-Rim-/140713138668?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item20c32819ec#ht_572wt_1270

Smallfurry, why would I need a new frame? I'll ride this one until it snaps.

Smallfurry, why would I need a new frame? I'll ride this one until it snaps.

Sorry. Mild trolling.

I have dozens of parts on order for two very exciting builds. Yet I'm not expecting much to arrive soon. So I'm window shopping. Sightly frustrating.

Have you looked into the Stans Crest rims?

Tubeless really is worth a little effort.

All of my cycling caps are dead.

Are there any really well made caps out there that aren't the douchey Rapha ones?

Just want to buy something where the shape or elastic isn't going to go after a few weeks.

Not really sold on the whole tubeless thing. This Afan trip for instance, there were lots of rocks, but I had no pinch flats. I was running about 40psi and don't think that anything lower would've helped. And it's messy isn't it? Plus if you get a puncture you still lose pressure before the sealant works? And what if you rip the tyre?