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• #55427
We talking deep section carbon aero or twinned spokkk aero?
grey TB14s would look good as well, gots to go down the HHSB route though in my humble opinion...
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• #55428
(tri)spok aero, it is certainly what my heart tells me to do
One problem though is all the other people saying they're looking for the same since you started that thread...
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• #55429
ha.... I've been looking for one I can afford for a while.... Ideally would have a corima 4 spokk but a tri spoke of some description would do me nicely. Guess I've kind of shot myself in the foot?
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• #55430
Check out the respray topic. I posted about some stuff that apparently is perfect for raw frames. Gibbs ... something.
I just bought some NOS D-A 7402 levers for the Feather. Probably paid over the odds but they are just perfect for it. The curse of having a 'best' bike: you end up spending a fortune if you change parts.
I recently missed out on a practically NOS pair for €25,- and whilst moving house on a pair that went for £15 on eBay, although not perfect.
So I rather wait a bit longer for something cheap to show up then end up going your route. -
• #55431
A VGC set just went on eBay for about £55 posted. €25 would have been a real bargain. Proper NOS ones don't pop up too often and I couldn't resist. I don't usually do the money-no-object thing, I should point out... sadly I think I'm going to have to cough up for the Nitto M106 bars from somewhere, because as nice as the Soma Hwy One are, I don't think I could bear to put them on the Feather (which is Nitto / Dura-Ace throughout). I'm becoming such a tart. :(
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• #55432
Yeah I went and got some today (wd40), I've also been thinking about linseed oil which I remember someone describing in either this or the rat bike thread.
Yes that was me - it forms a hard layer that won't rub off - the protection is excellent, but problem is that if you get the really yellow thick stuff it turns yellow. I got some really thin pale-straw coloured stuff from a woodworker.
Alternatively you could use poppyseed oil which also dries, but I think it's quite expensive (art shops sell it for mixing your own oil paints).
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• #55433
oh no, not this mix-and-match again!
=))Sorry i'm not quiet following?
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• #55434
Yes that was me - it forms a hard layer that won't rub off - the protection is excellent, but problem is that if you get the really yellow thick stuff it turns yellow. I got some really thin pale-straw coloured stuff from a woodworker.
Alternatively you could use poppyseed oil which also dries, but I think it's quite expensive (art shops sell it for mixing your own oil paints).
Or alternatively you can try Gibbs, which I now posted about three times..
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• #55435
The finished article!
Was wondering why you have a chain tensioner with horizontal dropouts but then I recall that the Raleigh 501's of that era were not cut all the way out, I had to take a drill and hacksaw to mine. Worth the time and effort though for the aesthetics.
Looks nice anyway.
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• #55436
Does anyone know which shop I can go to that will be able to grind/cut out an old rivnut/Nutsert and install a new one for me?
Cheers
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• #55437
Was wondering why you have a chain tensioner with horizontal dropouts but then I recall that the Raleigh 501's of that era were not cut all the way out, I had to take a drill and hacksaw to mine. Worth the time and effort though for the aesthetics.
Looks nice anyway.
I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for the explanation.
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• #55438
Just picked this up, plan to attempt to get it back on the road, it's a Claud Butler, but I'm not sure of the age:
Apologies for the photo. Plan to get it stripped, dink on the top tube filled, re-chromed (including the lugs if possible) and resprayed.
Came with a bag of period and later components which I hope are salvageable. Now just to find somehwere to hide it from my girlfriend...
Balls, first image too large. Trying again.
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• #55439
^ Wow! That will be worth the effort for sure! Lovely.
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• #55440
Aye. Lovely lugs.
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• #55441
that track frame could look awesome
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• #55442
Or alternatively you can try Gibbs, which I now posted about three times..
A friend of mine has used it on car parts - it rubs off (or is degraded by sweat/skin oils) very easily in places where you touch it often. On his car, that's around the door handles, door edges, boot latch etc - he says it's great for a show car but not one that gets ridden. On a bike, that would be the top tube where your jeans rub on it, seattube when you pick it up etc. Linseed oil rubs off, but over a period of weeks, not days.
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• #55443
Ok, nice to have some feedback. Sounded (too) good..
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• #55444
Sorry i'm not quiet following?
Ok let me explain myself
To me, and i guess, to some more folks on this forum, building your bike with modern campagnolo pista cranks and 60ies to 80ies campagnolo recorc/super recorcd/nuovo record hubs would be very similar to buildibg itupwith sugino75s and vintage gipiemme hubs
Catch my drift? -
• #55445
Ok, nice to have some feedback. Sounded (too) good..
Yeah, especially the bit where they said that it 'actually reversed oxidation'. Spray it on a rusty hole and it disappears - spray it on a piece of scrap iron you find at the beach, give it a few days - a whole ship appears!
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• #55446
Spray it on a rusty hole and it disappears - spray it on a piece of scrap iron you find at the beach, give it a few days - a whole ship appears!
repped
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• #55447
A friend of mine has used it on car parts - it rubs off (or is degraded by sweat/skin oils) very easily in places where you touch it often. On his car, that's around the door handles, door edges, boot latch etc - he says it's great for a show car but not one that gets ridden. On a bike, that would be the top tube where your jeans rub on it, seattube when you pick it up etc. Linseed oil rubs off, but over a period of weeks, not days.
That's not what I've found so far, an it's not pissy yellow..
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• #55448
Are you talking about linseed oil or Gibbs?
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• #55449
Are you talking about linseed oil or Gibbs?
I'm currently using Gibbs, thanks again to Bjorn.
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• #55450
I've had to go over to gears from SS again on my current build, as its my only means of transport and it was starting to cause issues with old knee injury again. A bit bummed by how easily knee has started playing up. :(
Just finished fitting shimano HG80 11-28 cassette, 105 mech, and a SLX shifter. Hoping that'll help.
Will be starting another project later in year when I have some more money based on a proper track frame of some description, so that will be my first fixed. I can enjoy that one and have current as a daily rat.
Cool, I will probably try the linseed oil if I feel lazy as it seems it lasts longer.
Also thinking of looking for some kind of comedy HHSB aero wheels and passing the current ones on to another bike in need of new wheelset... but maybe I want some classy low profile rims for that and I can't really justify/afford both.