Any question answered...

Lovely shoes...

And excellent heroin...

Bognor Regis.

Bugger Bognor

Mansfield. Derby. Coventry.
Most English towns are pretty shite actually.

Derby is bad beyond parody, true.

Liverpool

Nearly forgot Dudley. Seriously awful place.

Wigan

Blackburn

Burnley

Bradford

Pretty much anywhere on the Leeds - Liverpool canal, apart from Leeds, and Skipton....

So basically, England's a shithole

Apparently Surrey is nice...

Portsmouth is really, really bad as well. And I've not been there but I'm told Plymouth is horrendous.

Plymouth is my hometown and indeed, it is not the nicest place I have been. The countryside/seaside surrounding it however, is lovely.

France

Fail

Pontefract is pretty dire but it's no croydon

sumo is winning with Hull so far

right then, im gonna need a bit of advice but il spin you a bit of yarn first: i bought my njs bridgestone track frame complete about three months ago and it was obvious that the previous had slightly neglected the bike, not terribly, but in a way that meant he hadnt touched anything in a long time. I recently got a flat, when i went to change it i couldnt get the wheel out (this is the rear.) at first i thought that the axle or the track nuts had corroded to the dropouts but then i unscrewed the nuts and gave the wheel a bit of force and the wheel would move backwards in the dropouts. i finally got the wheel out with a lot of force and it turned out that a 120mm spaced wheel had been jammed in the dropouts that were 110mm. what should i do? could i re-space the hub (high flange dura-ace 7600) to 110mm? is this even possible? what cold-setting the frame be an option? would it be expensive? or should i just sell the wheels i have and buy some 110mm wheels (i'd ideally be looking for the 7600 hubs)? are 110mm hubs or wheelsets quite rare?
cheers in advance
joe

I have the same problem on an old track frame. As mine is my beater I removed the spacers from the hub which brought it down to about 115mm and can live with then squeezing the rear wheel into the frame. Not sure that you can do that on a DA hub. I think your options are to get one of these:

http://www.tracksupermarket.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=600

or as you say get your LBS to cold-set the frame which should be cheaper (although I found many places are reluctant to do it).

You can but 110mm hubs but as you know they are not where near as common as 120mm and can be quite hard to come by. Someone on here probably has some though....

is chrome's footwear any good( the cycling specific non clipless ones)?

Well if you check the WW rims listings page you can compare weights.

OP's are around 430g a rim - which is a good weight for a clincher rim when you look at the rest. I think there are now some light weight cx rims which would be good as they're wider - not sure what their availability in the UK is tho. Velocity A23's are wider and a 'normal' road rim weight. But bang for the buck and in terms of their availability, OP's are one of the best options.

Hub weight is less important, as they're in the middle.

From memory Mdcctester often recommends rigidas(?), as they're cheaper and just as good in his opinion.

From my limited experience and the more I read, I think that for the average cyclist, any half decent 32 hole rim, built 3 cross, to a reasonable standard, with a tyre that isn't shit will do the job well 99% of the time. Further, I think that anything beyond that mainly comes down to pure bike geekery*.

EDIT: also see this thread: http://www.lfgss.com/thread41982.html

*my next set of wheels will definitely be one of these useless constructions.

If you can find a good deal get some DT swiss rims. They seem bombproof, really stiff.

105 hubs will be fine, just as most shimano ones would be. Id suggest that you get 36h at least on the rear if you are normal sized bloke. I realise that 32h and even 28h can be perfectly durable on workhorse bikes. But 36h is even more!

A good quality rim, tensioned well with 36 spokes never seems to go out of true. I had a major vehicle impact to the rear and my DT wheel was still perfect afterwards.

I had a front impact where a car reversed over my wheel (rim got jammed under car bumper). The whole weight off the car pinned my rim onto the ground, seemingly bending/crushing it. But after the car got off, it sprung back straight. Only a little 6mm notch where rim was crushed into ground. It was a old Campag omega V 36h. Been riding it since (july) when it happened without fixing it. Perfectly solid.

The extra 4 spokes makes a big difference in my opinion as Ive not had this luck with my 32h wheels.

Thanks guys, 36h seems like the way to go as well. Should be strong enough for audax but light enough for training/ club riding.

Stokes a bit of a hole

Thanks guys, 36h seems like the way to go as well. Should be strong enough for audax but light enough for training/ club riding.

i am a 14 stone lump

have build 32h open pros for myself and they have been more than adequate, and i am in no way delicate on bikes

a well built wheel should be fine (especially when you think that mine were built by me without a great deal of experience but i was lucky, hillbilly checked my first couple of efforts and Zed was very patient in giving me advice too)

Would 32h be enough for audax though with a rack and more weight on the back wheel than just me?

I bought this

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/campagnolo/rear-mech-adjuster-ec031376

as a replacement for my Mirage 9spd rear mech but the thread seems too fine to screw in. Have Campagnolo changed the thread pitch on newer rear mechs?

IMO yes, but how much do you weigh?

To be honest I'm sure that 28h/32h would be fine. My main fixed wheels that get ridden around London are 28h/28h open pros and I haven't had any problems (I'm 13st ish).

IMO a much better reason for not choosing 28h on the front is that it usually seems to be a ball ache finding 28h and 32h in the same rim.

If you do have any concerns maybe get a 36h on the rear and 32h front, but my earlier comment still stands:

From my limited experience and the more I read, I think that for the average cyclist, any half decent 32 hole rim, built 3 cross, to a reasonable standard, with a tyre that isn't shit will do the job well 99% of the time. Further, I think that anything beyond that mainly comes down to pure bike geekery*.