Any question answered...

Acetone.

ta

Sorry, yes cartridge. I can't read the code. It looks like 6000 S2 but it's not.

Why is it not the 6000 series?

From this chart the bearing looks to be around the right size for a hub.
http://www.rbibearing.com/radial/6000.htm

Get a tatooist to do it

That actually sounds quite logical. But I'm still going to ask...

really?

really?

No, not really. The bit of skin (dermis) which actually takes the colour in a tattoo is not present in leather, which is just the epidermis. Also, tattoos are only visible because of the translucency of human epidermis, and most leather is dyed with quite opaque colours.

Hay peeps, You have probably missed me for a while.

Right! I sent my bike in to LBS and he put my groupset on my bike but I'm not happy with what he's done.

Question! When i try to change gear with the dual brake/gear levers they are really hard to push not smooth movement as they should be, would you know of a way i can fix this?

I was thinking it might be the tension in the cable or maybe (bike has no cable stopper under BB) he used what I can only describe as a jubilee clip but not put it on top of the cable (outer housing) he's just jubileed the cable. As a way to stop the outer housing to move to maybe this is why changing gear is so hard?

Greenracer, does your frame not have downtube gear mounts further up the tube?
If not then that's what you need.

Here you could buy this setup for £9 then remove the shifters and replace them with these. They fit onto the same bosses so you shouldn't have any problems.

Or you could get the non adjustable band on clamp - from SJS. You'll need to choose which one you need for the size of your downtube. Probably the smallest available. Best thing to do with SJS is to phone them and explain.

Your local LBS sounds absolutely clueless. I suggest you don't go back to him unless you're going to ask for your money back.

As you already have STi's I don't see the point of you buying a set of downtube shifters, you just need someone who knows a little about bikes to get what you need.

^^^ Ah, you.. with your answers.

So if I wanted something like this done:

would it be embroidered? or dyed in a particularly fiddly manner? Or would I just print it out on bits of paper and use pritt-stick and staples?

I've got your number sunshine. I'm onto you.

Although...

^^^ paint it with acrylics? needs to be something with opaque colour. or if that's too fiddly, a spot of decoupage-style should work ok, but not very durable. print on thin paper, if possible laser print or use inkjet inks that won't wash out easily, then use a flexible varnish.

I've painted on leather with acrylic artists' paints before now, seems to work.

If you want something hard wearing I'd dye it, or print on it with indelible inks.

Just a quick one, my rear hub has a bit of play in it, so the wheel is slightly wobbly, this is after 1000 miles or so, just paranoid that its not safe to ride, and is it likely to be a quick fix?

It is most likely a quick fix with some cone spanners.

OZ

I have the cable stops and even gave them to my LBS and they did nothing with them. I dont want downtube shift lever thats why i have sti levers. The only thing is i now have four holes in the downtube for the cables to go through. And now have to plug them up if i use the cable stops as the BB can get water in. With the cable stops i just screw them into the old lever holes and thread the cable thru?

Is this crank about to snap?

I think that's a decorative plastic "spider" and the rings are actually swaged to the crank boss.

Here we go

Scoble did this, didn't he.

Truly awful.

Go back to the shop and get your pennies back. If they won't give them back, call trading standards.

^^^ paint it with acrylics? needs to be something with opaque colour. or if that's too fiddly, a spot of decoupage-style should work ok, but not very durable. print on thin paper, if possible laser print or use inkjet inks that won't wash out easily, then use a flexible varnish.

I've painted on leather with acrylic artists' paints before now, seems to work.

If you want something hard wearing I'd dye it, or print on it with indelible inks.

Thanks all, extremely helpful. :)

Greenracer. Whut? You gave them the stops buy they didn't use them!? I now feel like I want to slap them on your behalf.

4 holes? Would these be holes they drilled for the cables to go down? Either my brain is still frazzled from lack of sleep and I've misunderstood you or you really need to avoid that LBS.

Part of the problem you have is that so much of the cable is in the outer causing more friction. On top of that you have nasty bends by the clamp and the cable rubbing on the frame.

Just so we have everything straight and I don't go off on one I'll ask these questions -
The clamp on cable stop that you already have, does it have square block on either side like this? If so, good. If not show us a picture.
If you do have the clamp with the square blocks on it you'll want the adjusters like I linked in my earlier post. IIRC, those adjusters come with a new groupset anyway. When they're all on the cable threads straight through and goes down to the plastic thing under the BB.

If I lived anywhere near you I would offer to come up and help.

I want to make my BMC lighter, how do I go about this? It currently has a Record/Chorus groupset, Easton ea70 wheels, ea90 stem, FSA Omega bars and a spec romin saddle. I know the wheels would be where I could save weight easily, but they're also really expensive. I cant' change the seatpost so I guess it's down to the groupset and stem/bars/skewers/saddle(not exactly heavy anyway).

Why?

because

Got to be wheels, my carbon wheels/tyres/ cassette pair are just under 1kg lighter than my OpenPro's, loads of rotating weight gone.