Current Projects chat and miscellany

size matters

With hundreds of yards of tube to choose from, they decided to place the bottle cages right next to the BB - must be a bit of a stretch to get a drink.

size matters

Does that have a 650 front? Probably not, but it looks weird.

I had same problem with my Bob jackson. Nuovo Record cranks and centaur 111 BB. Filed the shoulders down, but then found that the bolts caught anyway. So spaced the cup accross about 1.5 - 2 mm (width of a lockring) as I wasn't about to spend another £40 on a BB if I could avoid it. Works fine now is perfectly spaced on both sides.

Did you space the cup with a lockring. Can you get thinner spacers for this. I've got pistas on a 109 BB, but when i put power down, the corner of the spider shaves the paint on the chainstay. However, there is not much thread to play with on the non drive side cup as is, so i'd only be able to space it over maybe half a mm. Any ideas, other than filing the back edges of the spider a little, which i'd rather avoid doing if i can.

You can get slimmer spacers that come with EXP type BBs which should do the job. Not sure where to get em from but sure it won't be hard to find.

Charge Grinder has been updated, very pleased with it now, really comfy to ride.

Crappy phone camera pic.

With hundreds of yards of tube to choose from, they decided to place the bottle cages right next to the BB - must be a bit of a stretch to get a drink.

Reach is alright. The placement gives room for extra mounts above both st and dt. If i use the existing mount under the dt as well, that would make 5 :)

Does that have a 650 front? Probably not, but it looks weird.

Nope, just the angle of the photo.

Charge Grinder has been updated, very pleased with it now, really comfy to ride.

Crappy phone camera pic.

What basket is this?

there is not much thread to play with on the non drive side cup as is, so i'd only be able to space it over maybe half a mm. Any ideas, other than filing the back edges of the spider a little, which i'd rather avoid doing if i can.

I've got some 0.4mm stainless steel spacers which I had manufactured for sprocket spacing. Unfortunately, they cost me £40/10 to have made, so I'd have to charge you £5 each if you want one or two. For whole millimetre spacing, some of the single speed spacer kits come with 1mm spacers, I think.

brooks basket I think

I had same problem with my Bob jackson. Nuovo Record cranks and centaur 111 BB. Filed the shoulders down, but then found that the bolts caught anyway. So spaced the cup accross about 1.5 - 2 mm (width of a lockring) as I wasn't about to spend another £40 on a BB if I could avoid it. Works fine now is perfectly spaced on both sides.

I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem, it's driven me near insane! I tried using spacer but had nothing that quite fitted... I'm trying to find a replacement axle, not feeling a cartridge bb...

Finally I've got (most of) the powdercoat off and after a rattlecan clearcoat my fixie-skidder is coming along.

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/th_2fe9c4b1.jpg?t=1286731312http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/th_08995132.jpg?t=1286731312http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/th_f2b6b045.jpg?t=1286731312

I still need to get a headset - thinking a Miche as it looks different and will match my cranks...
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQI6AyjLBYBsBWbAssBxHeDnnx810Pb1T8lxvtHupI60fmxwSo&t=1&usg=__6kLZBhm_o3L29z8vfZiw7qc_p20=
[URL="[[/URL]"]]http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/7f7f885e.jpg

I'm trying to keep it period correct ('08-09) with the yellow turbo, risers + vstrongs and 28c on the back. Can't afford deeep-veee's so I'm settling for some cxp30s I've got knocking around. Unfortuneately they're plain silver, but I was thinking I could put a red Supreme sticker on before I build them.
http://www.theriotclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/supreme-sticker-archive-6.jpg
Does anyone have a spare Supreme sticker? Or know where you get them from?

1 up - welded cogs - snapped
2 up - free hub jammed with nails - lob sided splines - a problem i'd suspected might happen
3 up - free hub jammed with nails (revised) got it central and fixed but had lash (quite stiff and short travel - but lash never the less - unaccepetable)
4 up (what i should have done after the welded cogs incident) 'JB weld' (6.95 gbp from local car shop )in the free hub - set overnight. - success

2 S3X cogs and a 12t single speed kit sorted the rest. spacing is easier (you space at the rear spline instead of at the crank plus messing with the cups and cones which the welded cogs method demanded )- changing the cogs if you want to is easier (when i get that 35t ring)

the first road test proves it to be zero lash whilst being completely tolerant of some viscous skids in the dry on 28mm tyres with my weight far back :

links for anyone who wanta to give it a go .

this is useful, i'd never been inside a freehub 4 days ago (tip: the bearing cup is counter threaded and can be knocked with hammer and screwdriver - you don't need the special tool shown)

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=45

this is the method - told here for a freewheel - but they are pretty similar inside (good tip : twist the unit clockwise to get pawls to engage in the driving position before it sets)

http://scoplaw.blogs.com/scoplaw/2004/04/how_to_make_a_f.html

added some cages, lights, speedo etc - ready for the hills now

2 Attachments

I'm trying to keep it period correct ('08-09)

lul

no. 6

that looks allot neater, but I'm struggling to work out what you've done.

Did you just jam up the inside of the freehub body? and what does "2 S3X cogs" mean?

Really like this idea.

hugo7 - check the links above they should explain it pretty much,. basically all the excess space in freehub is filled with a metal epoxy jamming and sticking it up tight (be patient before riding - it takes a day or so to harden )

s3x cogs are just cogs for the s3x hub - single speed cogs that fit a shimano spline - see

''Single Cassette Sprockets and Spacers''

at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/singlespeed.html#s3xcog

nothing more special than single speed cogs for shimano free hubs really

even the cogs off a cassette will work (but i didn't have the right sizes here )- single speed cogs are better as designed to keep chain on more. spacers and 12t cog came from a single speed kit - plus 2 more cogs in there too .

ebay for over the odds. or juts not, would be a better idea.

Cheers mdcc. I may well go for that, just packed the bike up to ship away with me, i'll PM you in the week to sort something out.

I've got some 0.4mm stainless steel spacers which I had manufactured for sprocket spacing. Unfortunately, they cost me £40/10 to have made, so I'd have to charge you £5 each if you want one or two. For whole millimetre spacing, some of the single speed spacer kits come with 1mm spacers, I think.

My recently completed Joe Waugh track frame, complete with flouro 80's fade bartape

Tidy :)

number6: Looks really good, great project.

Lovely Mercian Vigorelli a page or 2 back too.

My Bob Jackson - more or less a new drivetrain, as I couldn't resolve the chainstay clearance problem with the previous cranks, at least not when a 42 mm chainline is needed:

Charge Grinder has been updated, very pleased with it now, really comfy to ride.

Crappy phone camera pic.

anyone know what bars these be?

1 up - welded cogs - snapped
2 up - free hub jammed with nails - lob sided splines - a problem i'd suspected might happen
3 up - free hub jammed with nails (revised) got it central and fixed but had lash (quite stiff and short travel - but lash never the less - unaccepetable)
4 up (what i should have done after the welded cogs incident) 'JB weld' (6.95 gbp from local car shop )in the free hub - set overnight. - success

I'm going to upgrade my car piston heads with baked bean cans cos they are lighter and should enable higher RPM. Or maybe not.

With hundreds of yards of tube to choose from, they decided to place the bottle cages right next to the BB - must be a bit of a stretch to get a drink.

I believe the rider has a special trick where they flip the bottle up into the air by hitting it with their heel straight into their waiting hand.

Just picked up this for a very reasonable price :

(Poor photo, iPhone... - It's a Dawes Star Celeste)

I want to convert to SS as a commuter / tourer. Advice more than welcome. Want to do it right.

My Bob Jackson...

Sergeant Pluck - What's the saddle bag on the BJ?

Just picked up this for a very reasonable price :

I want to convert to SS as a commuter / tourer. Advice more than welcome. Want to do it right.

First check how wide the rear dropouts are. If you're going SS then you should be able to just re-use the rear wheel. Take the cassett off and replace with a ss freewheel.

Then get a new crankset. If the rear is 120mm then a 42mm chainline should be fine - check the transmissions database to see what BB works with what what crankset.

The strip off the excess parts.

Also read sheldon brown and check the mech and fixing section one here - there's a list of good websites. There's a really good link to a video on fixedgeargallery in there (this one: p://www.fixedgeargallery.com/colu...age/indexb.htm).

Hope that helps.

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