Langster / Langster Pro / Langster Steel

well, compared to the days i was riding bmx 23c feels like breaking everytime when i jump a curb ;)

that's what i said, i still like the frame (stickers removed) but not the components.

maybe it the tyres then, but somehow when it rains the bike it sooo slippery

700x23C is a fast road tyre size designed for low rolling resistance / high speed. They're not designed for bump absorption - you'll have to do a lot more of that with your legs.

To be honest, any road tyre is going to be slippery in the wet on drain covers and white lines. I saw a guy go epicly sideways on a Boris Bike last week because he was unfamiliar with this particular branch of physics. But if you're slipping on normal asphalt then some better tyres are definitely in order.

Oh, and also I've found that handbuilt wheels often feel a lot more solid riding off a kerb than stock wheels.

I got a Langster a few months ago on ride to work, and I've just switched it over the other day to fixed. Which is nice. The thing is, there's a disconcerting creaking noise coming from the crank region when I slow down using my leggy wegs. In the opinion of more knowledgeable forum members, is that the region I need to upgrade? I'm a big heavy fucker so that may be an issue.

Check to make sure stuff like cranks, chainring bolts, etc are tight. Did you do the cog up nice and tight? Did the lockring also go on tight? After riding it a bit, are they still tight? You better have the tools to be able to check this or we'll hurt you.

Yeah it's all tightened up nice and proper. I've got the tools, but to be honest you probably won't need to hurt me if I've done it wrong- I'll end up hurting myself. Hopefully it'll stop sounding like an old wooden ship tomorrow. On a slightly related topic... I want to do a maintenance course so I can be a bit more specific in future. I work in London Bridge so I've got Evans and On Your Bike nearby. Anyone have any thoughts on which is preferable? Or neither? FANKS.

pictures with braklessss because it's cooool....

Brakeless and freewheel no less!

You like wheeling this pic out don't you. Bless.

Hi all

A newbie here : I have just bought a 2011 Specialzed Langster steel for playing around in the countryside around my home, I don't live in a town, this is only for road riding not town riding.

I am only using the bike for fitness purposes or riding to work, as it's only a 20km ride from home.

I am starting to get used to the position, the bike, the 1 gear (42/16) ... etc.

As I only ride MTBs normally, the only thing that I don't like with this setup are the brakes as they are crap, I'm used to XTR disc brakes,

Not being used to singlespeeds or roadies bikes, I haven't a clue what to brakes I could buy to replace the original ones, I can live with the brakes on the top of the drop bars, I would just like some real stopping power.

Any suggestions would be really nice, many thanks

For info, these are fitted for the moment - Light dual pivot brake, Teflon pivots, forged alloy, w/ standard angle adjustable pads

First, you've got to remember that they're not disc brakes and are never going to be close.

The first and cheapest option is checking they're properly set up and buy new brake pads (fibrax for cheap or Swissstop for +$).

Next is upgrading to better calipers. Shimano are always good. 105s with decent pads should be fine n

Next is upgrading to ceramic rims. To my knowledge mavic open pros are the only ones ~£80 a rim. You will also need ceramic specific pads and I think the main benefit is only really in the wet.

You like wheeling this pic out don't you. Bless.

You have no idea. Bless.

Ha! ^^^^twatster ;)

Hugo7 many thanks

These then ? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13602

and while I'm at asking about modifications, what about these Schawlbe tires, Schwalbe Marathon Plus, 700 * 25c, slightly wider than my 23c, but apparently very good, I am only using the bike on small country roads, no town biking, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=24544

I would get some cyclocross forks and some decent canti's

^^ yes the general consensus is they are the price point - but obviously the Ultegra ones will be better and the DA better than those... and I'm sure there are some boutique ones which are even better.

I'd start with pads and checking your cables/setup, bc the stock shimano pads are a bit shit anyway so you'd be stupid not to get new ones if you're upgrading. One of the good things about the fibrax ones* is they're cheap and you can get replacement pads for the holders. The only bad thing is they wear out quick... but then you've got to weigh up your riding style (ie you're riding out of town, not stopping every 5mins2mins for lights).

TBH it might be worth going to your lbs and trying to blag a test ride on a road bike with topend kit - so you have an idea of the limits of callipers.

I've never used really shit hot road brakes and its been ages since I've been on an MTB, but it seemed to me that when it comes to braking you're taking a whole different league...but then you'd wouldn't complain about a mtb having too much rolling resistance on the roads would you?

I guess my point is unless you get brazeons for disc brakes, you're not going to have disc brakes, so just learn to accept the limits.

*Chainreaction sell them

I've got a 2007 Langster, and yes, the brakes are pretty shit. Easiest way to improve the braking is to flip the rear wheel around and go fixed.
If you don't want to do this, the next option is to get a new front brake, most of the stopping power comes from the front, so I wouldn't bother wasting money on getting a new rear brake as well. !05s are decent enough, you should be able to get one secondhand pretty cheaply.

And Schwalbe Marathon Plus are good puncture resistant tyres.

RE 25c's...

Schwalbe make good tyres. Marathon's have a good rep (altho they're meant to be a bitch to get on... but then you're not meant to have to take them off until they're dead) - I've never used them tho, but I liked the lugano's.

I run 25c maxxis refuse in london, for the puncture resistance and to give a little bit of extra comfort but without compromising rolling resistance (and bc a forumunger who's opinion I respect rates them)... I like the set up.

My road bike has ~20c I think (veloflex paves), and that spends more time in the countryside... so if it was me rolling around country lanes, I'd just stick to 23c. I don't know what the langster's tyres are like, but stock tyres are usually a bit shit and my *very *limited experience says wheel stuff generally seems to be money well spent.

If you search you'll find the tyres list which has plenty of information.

^^ yes the general consensus is they are the price point - but obviously the Ultegra ones will be better and the DA better than those... and I'm sure there are some boutique ones which are even better.

I'd start with pads and checking your cables/setup, bc the stock shimano pads are a bit shit anyway so you'd be stupid not to get new ones if you're upgrading. One of the good things about the fibrax ones* is they're cheap and you can get replacement pads for the holders. The only bad thing is they wear out quick... but then you've got to weigh up your riding style (ie you're riding out of town, not stopping every 5mins2mins for lights).

TBH it might be worth going to your lbs and trying to blag a test ride on a road bike with topend kit - so you have an idea of the limits of callipers.

I've never used really shit hot road brakes and its been ages since I've been on an MTB, but it seemed to me that when it comes to braking you're taking a whole different league...but then you'd wouldn't complain about a mtb having too much rolling resistance on the roads would you?

I guess my point is unless you get brazeons for disc brakes, you're not going to have disc brakes, so just learn to accept the limits.
*Chainreaction sell them

My relatively unexperienced view of road brakes was that yes it's worth spending so much, up to (£30ish a caliper) but after that point, the advantages are slight and mainly down to pad/rim combination and you might be better spending your cash on some fancy pads and cables (ceramic openpro's are twice the regular price). Shit tektro calipers and aztec pads are enough for me to lift the back wheel at the lights, fully seated, day in day out.

Check the pads still don't have the shiny box fresh coating on them and how they are contacting the rim before doing anything else. The setup on langsters is v-similar to most otp's, the brakes might not be stellar but they work.

^ +100

Good point about the coating. Maybe take a bit of sandpaper to them.

OK, the 105s have been ordered, I'm pretty sure that they will be better than the tekto original ones, I'll keep on looking for tires, I'm a little against paying 25quid a tyre, my MTB has 3 times more rubber on them for the same price.... but will pay if need be.
I do not really care about rolling resistance, being used to MTB with 2.1 inch wide tires, any road bike tires roll to me, so any more suggestions for the perfect road, with winter coming up so not slippery in the wet, puncture resistant tyre would be useful

Thanks to all
http://minty95.wordpress.com/2010/09/15/singlespeed/

Your MTB have three time more rubber because it's three time more likely to get punctured off-road.

On the road, you don't really need that much, at least when being assertive and taking the primary position when needed (i.e. not riding in the gutter which increase the likeihood of getting a puncture).

My personal recommendation is a 25-28c Conti Grand Prix 4 season, it give me huge amount of grip while being puncture resistance, but ride with your current tyres so you can get the idea of how it feel, skinny 23c tyres are not recommended especially in cities/town with poor road surface.

You will feel the bike will be a lots faster to ride than your MTB and easily get up to speed with the least effort.

Also, there's no 'dark side', there's no segregation between different rider here (like roadie, MTber, TT, etc.), the only thing we have in common is that we ride a bike, that's it.

Edscoble thanks for the info on the tires, don't worry about the 'darkside' it's only a joke, as long as I'm on a bike I'm happy

stick it fixed then put a 105 front caliper on with tektro areo levers for emergancies...... i use bontrager race xlites 25mm on my winter langster and they seem happy enough. I live in wilts so use country lanes and up down big hills on a 42 14 and they stick well and no punctures. cheap cheerful and plenty of life. BTW i love the Twatster sticker........nice

Recently changed the stock calipers for Ultegras. Fantastic difference. The stock ones were absolutely dire.

I'd stick with 23mm tyres for decent clearance - at least on my 2007 model.

If you really want cantis or discs (and I would), then get a Pompino F&F for cantis, or try and track down a Singlecross (same as Langster but CX clearances & canti brakes). No idea what to recommend for discs though.

email from web site saying calipers have shipped, should recieve them in a week or so, I live in France, once they are fitted maybe I'll try the fixed pignon,

have 2 weeks MTBing coming up with the Gamel Trophy and the Roc d'Azur so no way to test the,Langster for a while

Once back I'll test the Shimano's 105 and if I have the courage, the fixed wheel

still looking for tires so keep the advice coming please