Current Projects chat and miscellany

try using a soldering iron to warm the filler to soften it to get it off using a tough wire brush.
It worked for me and it's a good way cos you can aim the heat very accurately where you want it,
rather than blast the whole area as you would with a blow torch and degrade the aluminium.

finished:

http://velospace.org/node/23448

http://velospace.org/files/krabofinished01.jpg

lower the stem!!!

wait a second. BIANCHI filled over the welds!? Not some quack in a basement?! Am i being thick?

wait a second. BIANCHI filled over the welds!? Not some quack in a basement?! Am i being thick?

I prefer the look of the filled welds as gives a seamless appearance over the ridged large 'open' wleds. Guess Bianchi prefer it too.

Not so good if after a bare metal look though.

try using a soldering iron to warm the filler to soften it to get it off using a tough wire brush.
It worked for me and it's a good way cos you can aim the heat very accurately where you want it,
rather than blast the whole area as you would with a blow torch and degrade the aluminium.

Thanks for the tip mate but it's fine - I've dropped it off to a 'professional' to do :-)

I picked up this practically unused Vigorelli F & F from my LBS for £175.
I just need a front caliper that fits and a new set of wheels, these are borrowed off my other bike, i'm thinking lower profile black rims.
I'll probably change the stem to a Thomson Elite.

Bloody hell thats a steal. Nice. Silver Thomson (plus silver spacers, maybe a few less of them actually) and silver seatpost would sort that bike right out...

I prefer the look of the filled welds as gives a seamless appearance over the ridged large 'open' wleds. Guess Bianchi prefer it too.

Not so good if after a bare metal look though.

yeeeaaaa but i've never come across this method of forming smooth junctions before. it's just so sleazy.

yeeeaaaa but i've never come across this method of forming smooth junctions before. it's just so sleazy.

No. That's economics. You want to buy a bike a price point, those are the decisions that have to be made - 99.999% of the buyers would never know it. Pisti is the exception.

If you want smooth welds, then that takes a whole different skills which adds significant cost. Then people would slag them off for being expensive for what it is.

All aerodynamics body kits for cars are all fiberglass and body filler - people expect that and don't expect it to be structural. Why not use the same technology for smoothing out welds on bikes?

My next project would require something like this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3438/3909201562_022296910e_o.png

Doe anyone other than Paul make these?

I've also bought the same frame - Singular Peregrine and faced the same dilema, don't need two brakes but need two brake levers.

Using the 'search' i have tracked down these:-

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HU287F00-Surly+New+Discfixed+Hub.aspx

which i have just bought from charliethebikemonger.

i have also ordered some Phil Woods Kiss Off Hubs with fixed/disc from Hubjub as a custom order. Should be here in 3/4 weeks so may end up selling the Surly ones.....

ordered my Singular frame/forks from Holland as I couldn't wait till end of November, arrived last week

No. That's economics. You want to buy a bike a price point, those are the decisions that have to be made - 99.999% of the buyers would never know it. Pisti is the exception.

If you want smooth welds, then that takes a whole different skills which adds significant cost. Then people would slag them off for being expensive for what it is.

All aerodynamics body kits for cars are all fiberglass and body filler - people expect that and don't expect it to be structural. Why not use the same technology for smoothing out welds on bikes?

here's my agrument

and another

and one last one

ah that's a good tip, didn't think of that! might experiment with a few different options. giving her the maiden voyage today...

cheers.

update...back from maiden voyage, a bit nuts. obligatory slack chain photo below:

right onto the next one...

Crikey.....can you ride that without falling off the front?
You must have strong arms.

.

Can't see the pic Nebulus

He's just polishing it all up for an even 'satin(ish)' finish. I'd like to leave it raw metal but may look into trying to get some kind of off the shelf spray lacquer - failing that I'll just probably autosol it now n then. Do't want a clearcoat

Can't see the pic Nebulus

He's just polishing it all up for an even 'satin(ish)' finish. I'd like to leave it raw metal but may look into trying to get some kind of off the shelf spray lacquer - failing that I'll just probably autosol it now n then. Do't want a clearcoat

Hopefully image and a couple of others fixed now....

I did the same to a Klein frame a little while back wanted the satin finish which I did using fine(ish) sanding blocks, tough to get the grain looking nice on all the tubes though, but I found Autosol just made it a bit too shiny so I bit the bullet and went for mirror finish all over.

Looks great but on an offroad frame its a damn dust and fingerprint magnet still easy to fix after 5mins with some polish, not that I can be bothered to do that after every ride!

The GT polished up much easier, maybe there is some difference in surface finishes between the 7000 and 9000 aluminium used in each frame...

Weird, can't see that link either, got:

"Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

:-$

yeah, nebulus, i can't eyeball it either - but would like to check it out

here's my agrument

and another

and one last one

You don't like the filler as it's not real? You like the aesthetics but not the means?

Best aesthetics for the cost. If you ever done any house building, construction, manufacturing you might have a different perspective. Or you do, and take great umbrage. I'm not sure.

I don't get your argument. Are we arguing?

Finished!

http://velospace.org/node/23473

i would love to see that in the flesh, very nice indeed

lower the stem!!!

please follow his advise. i've got some kind of lo-pro /w risers too, but the stem always needs to be quite complete inserted into the headset / steeringtube.

if you find that uncomfortable, choose a standard frame.

The road bike is done!!

From this:

To this!

Sold the spinergies to our very own BoBoB, used the cash to buy aksiums. Job's-a-goodun!

Rest of the spec:

shimano 600 STI's, F&R mech, calipers, rear cassette (? possibly ultegra)

105 cranks and SPD SL pedals

Shimano Deore XT seatpost

San Marco weird but lovely saddle

Cinelli bars and stem

Sram chain.

The frame is columbus, and has an awesome wishbone seat stay. Can be seen better in this pic:

Cannot wait to take this out on some country roads!!

I'm really new to this...

I've been given this Pre 84 6 speed Raliegh Medale. It is a road racer but my Grandfather converted it to a tourer. Its ripe for a single speed commuter. No idea on allot of things on this build from forks to what i can do about running good wheels as the original steels are 27" x 1 3/4".

Any advise from Raleigh fans.

Heres a Medale somebody has done. Are those 700c wheels fitted?

please follow his advise. i've got some kind of lo-pro /w risers too, but the stem always needs to be quite complete inserted into the headset / steeringtube.

if you find that uncomfortable, choose a standard frame.

awesome photo :)