Fuji Track / Fuji Track Pro / Fuji Track Classic

Yep, the Fuji is now in the bin downstairs in the loading bay.

You can have one of my old chains.. they've each been blessed with the blood from 13 BMW drivers..

Behold my terrifying chain line:

This is with the old Formula sprocket in place, which is not quite 1/8th yet not quite 3/32nd.

Why would Fuji specify the wrong bottom bracket?!

It makes no sense- FSA Carbon track pro cranks and BB, formula fixed/fixed wheels, surely it should be inline- 42.5mm is the standard is it not?

It's just wierd, the chain goes (if you are standing behind the bike) diagonally left from the sprocket, then goes diagonally right about midway through it's length back to the chain ring.

Meh.

1. jesus christ. what you just described is NOT what what a "chainline" is. The chainline is the actual straight line between your cog and your Chainring. It should be completely parallel with the cog and chainring. Even if your chain is sitting on the floor, your bike still has a "chainline". See attachment.

2. It sounds like you have a shite chain and maybe your chain isn't tight enough (which actually could be helped by chaintugs if you aren't able to get it tight enough with other trickery). I suggest you get a better quality chain in 1/8th width. You can run a 1/8th chain (wider) with your current 3/32nd (narrower) cog and ring. It can be helpful. Be sure to tension it properly. Check the tension regularly. Chains stretch. Keep it tensioned properly.

and also, everyone except me in this thread is well... they're all yanking your chain. don't listen to them.

1 Attachment

I blame the carpet

Chains stretch. Keep it tensioned properly.

Chains *do not* stretch. Rookie.

Nope, he's right, they wake up in the morning stiff and sore, crunch their bones into place and just get on with it. Stretching is for girlies.

Chains *do not* stretch. Rookie.

Ok, cool guy, the rivets wear out and the play at each link increases. 1/xxth of a mm or so at each link adds up over the length of the chain. No, the plates do not become longer.

weird to me that you guys can't just be helpful.

all you need to do is film a video of your funky chainline in action, and post it on youtube.
then you will have officially beaten edscoble's 'trying to put on a tyre' thread....;)

weird to me that you guys can't just be helpful.

Must bring to your attention...

http://www.londonfgss.com/post720622-66.html

Lovely helpful forummers

:D

1. jesus christ. what you just described is NOT what what a "chainline" is. The chainline is the actual straight line between your cog and your Chainring. It should be completely parallel with the cog and chainring. Even if your chain is sitting on the floor, your bike still has a "chainline". See attachment.

2. It sounds like you have a shite chain and maybe your chain isn't tight enough (which actually could be helped by chaintugs if you aren't able to get it tight enough with other trickery). I suggest you get a better quality chain in 1/8th width. You can run a 1/8th chain (wider) with your current 3/32nd (narrower) cog and ring. It can be helpful. Be sure to tension it properly. Check the tension regularly. Chains stretch. Keep it tensioned properly.

and also, everyone except me in this thread is well... they're all yanking your chain. don't listen to them.

Why do you assume that my current setup is 3/32nd?

Ok, I have removed the old chain, cleaned everything and put the new chain on.

Just about to pop out for a test ride, hopefully it will be a bit better, if not I'll swap in a wider BB.

bottom bracket is too short

That's what I thought, the crank needs to be a couple off mm out....

Having looked at it myself, I would say that:

• The chain is pissed and needs replacing
  
• The BB needs to be 111mm(I'm sure you said it was 108?)
  

I had a rummage in the spare parts box and found a brand new, never fitted FSA Platinum Pro Isis BB.

Rather annoyingly it is 108mm- which I presume is the same as the one currently in the frame.

So if anyone has a 113mm one and would like to either trade it or sell it please let me know.

Edit- FSA don't seem to make anything between 108mm and 113mm

A little more research shows that the crankset is desined to give a 41mm chainline, which explains a lot.

Would moving from a 108mm to a 113mm push it out too far- it would move it to a 43.5mm chainline, which I think would be too far out...

111mm FTW!

No one seems to make one in 111mm mate...

Campy Centaur comes in 111mm, Italian and English threaded

I just gave this thread 5 stars.

http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/category/180/Chain_Tensioners

Dovoneil - do those adjust using an allen key or by the nut? I carry allens already but don't fancy having to put anything else in the tool kit. I can't quite tell from the pic.

Campy Centaur comes in 111mm, Italian and English threaded

I need Isis drive however, which reduces the options rather markedly.

I think I'll get some Goldtec Hubs, and a longer BB as I think the chainline should be closer to perfect then, but in the meantime BB spacers it is- if I have enough room between the left hand crank and chainstay.

I just gave this thread 5 stars.

i'm givin' it 6

I need Isis drive however, which reduces the options rather markedly.

I think I'll get some Goldtec Hubs, and a longer BB as I think the chainline should be closer to perfect then, but in the meantime BB spacers it is- if I have enough room between the left hand crank and chainstay.

good luck

good luck

Yes, I might well need it.

Having slept on the matter I have left the state of denial that I was in yesterday when I did not believe that Fuji would have specified two components with differing chainline values.

Hey ho.

a 113mm is easily available, and will only kick it out 1mm, might be an option