Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • You must be putting them on wrong cos they are ACE tyres.....you seem to be the only one who detestes them?

    Yeah.. that'd be it.. I don't know how to change tyres. Of course.
    Only I've installed more sets of tyres than you've seen football matches.

    Try searching google groups for other people's opinions on Conti gatorskins.

  • when the crank is in line with the seat tube what position should the valve be in?
    should it be 12 o'clock or at 11 o'clock which would be parallel with the seat tube?
    i think that if it was in the three oclock position it could look a little wrong or irksome.
    advice would be appreciated.

    So long as the angle of incidence is parallel to the symmetry line when the golden ratio is inverted, all will be gold.

  • Try searching google groups for other people's opinions on Conti gatorskins.

    Hippy's been busy. Are you looking for sponsorship from Vittoria? is that it?

  • I just bought this for my first build. Bit of fun. Not 100% sure where I'm going to go with it yet, I'll probably decide when I get it. Ideas anyone?

  • I've got some nice wheels that'd suite that.

    Yours for £150 along with 2 spare tubular tyres.
    The rear hub's axle is long enough to fit a geared frame.

  • finally a much better pic of the BJ;

    very very very nice bike, how you finding that tire setup mate? i'm putting the same on my new build.

  • 25c front, 28c rear, comfortable for London yet still fast to ride, push the randonneur at least 100psi. And it'll feel faster and skiddable (felt more like 23c at that psi).

  • Hadn't realised the fluting on the seat tube - looks awesome.

  • very nice ed!

  • 25c front, 28c rear, comfortable for London yet still fast to ride, push the randonneur at least 100psi. And it'll feel faster and skiddable (felt more like 23c at that psi).

    yeah i would push the randonneur to 100psi. i've also got the same rims but in champagne going on the new build (pure coincidence!!) so should be fine.

  • looks spiffing, but i think you should have left the bar tape on the whole bars.

    current set up is silly IMO

  • looks spiffing, but i think you should have left the bar tape on the whole bars.

    I agree - So do you never use the bare part of the bars then Ed? Dunno about you, but my hands are in that position 60-70% of the time.

  • Oh good I am not that bad. I now have 3 bikes, I just bought this Gios ...

    V thats LOvELY!!

  • there's a champagne version? that gotta look even nicer!

  • ohhhhhh yes, with a gold chain to match ;-)

  • I agree - So do you never use the bare part of the bars then Ed? Dunno about you, but my hands are in that position 60-70% of the time.

    my hand are in that position a lots as well, but half the leather grip is going onto another bar, much cheaper than spunking another £30 on a new tape.

    and the grip is much more comfortable.

  • my hand are in that position a lots as well, but half the leather grip is going onto another bar, much cheaper than spunking another £30 on a new tape.

    and the grip is much more comfortable.

    Form over function.

  • I've got some nice wheels that'd suite that.

    Yours for £150 along with 2 spare tubular tyres.
    The rear hub's axle is long enough to fit a geared frame.

    hehe, that's my bike. i only bought the frame and forks off him though.

  • Hi, newish to the forum. My first fixed gear project. I have a few questions (hopefully got the correct thread).....

    I bought this Peogeot road bike for €25. I've identified it as a 1983 PSV10 which I think was at the top end of their range that year...

    Does the rear axel look like it is far enough in the dropouts? The chain was a bit slack when it was fully in so I removed another link and now it's only just in. The axel is fully in the dropout but the nut doesn't have 100% contact.

    1) If i run a half link 1/8 chain to improve tension on a 32/3 sprocket and chainring will it rattle about?

    I've got 42 chainring / 14 sprocket which I have a feeling might be too high (80.2 gear inches) so the dropout problem might be solved I guess by increasing the rear sproket size.

    2) I have to put the chainring on the middle ring space on the crack to get the best chainline. Works OK but could look better. Is it possible to change the axel spacing on the BB? I don't think its a cartridge... It's a flip flop hub so I don't want to respace/redish the wheel.

    3) THe stem is an Atax stem. I read somewhere about these failing? Is it advised to replace this?

    4) The stem wont go any lower into the steerer as shown in lowest position in the picture. Do you think this is due to the taper of the stem? Or if i cut an inch off will it go down further?

    Any other advice based on the photos would be appreciated. Cheers

  • Hippy's been busy. Are you looking for sponsorship from Vittoria? is that it?

    I wouldn't mind. Their tyre prices have almost doubled recently. I just spent £120 on various models. I may have to buy something else.

  • Not really a current project more a finished project now.

    As I have moved out in to the sticks I needed a bike capable of a bit of everything. So its a Surly Crosscheck that I am using as my adventure bike as I get to know the area. I also have a set of Cyclo-Cross tyres so when I get to Thetford forrest I can go for a thrash off road (Pictured sporting a set Vittoria Randonnuers, Switch between them and Conti Twisters). Might be doing some touring later in the year on it as well. Its not the lightest bike, but suits my current riding on the trafficless roads of Norfolk.


  • I like that so much more than most of the brakeless fluoro mix'a'bits that are on here.
    A bike with a purpose.

  • [QUOTE=TheCrane;642182]

    nice, just peel them rim stickers off

  • Hi, newish to the forum. My first fixed gear project. I have a few questions (hopefully got the correct thread).....

    I bought this Peogeot road bike for €25. I've identified it as a 1983 PSV10 which I think was at the top end of their range that year...

    Does the rear axel look like it is far enough in the dropouts? The chain was a bit slack when it was fully in so I removed another link and now it's only just in. The axel is fully in the dropout but the nut doesn't have 100% contact.

    1) If i run a half link 1/8 chain to improve tension on a 32/3 sprocket and chainring will it rattle about? - you only need one half link, a whole chain made of half links won't give you any more adjustability. and you can get them in 3/32(i think)

    I've got 42 chainring / 14 sprocket which I have a feeling might be too high (80.2 gear inches) so the dropout problem might be solved I guess by increasing the rear sproket size. - if you increase the rear sprocket size you'll effectively shorten the chain so you'll need to add more links

    2) I have to put the chainring on the middle ring space on the crack to get the best chainline. Works OK but could look better. Is it possible to change the axel spacing on the BB? I don't think its a cartridge... It's a flip flop hub so I don't want to respace/redish the wheel. - just get a cartridge BB a couple or so mm shorter than the one you have already, they're pretty cheap, around £15

    3) THe stem is an Atax stem. I read somewhere about these failing? Is it advised to replace this? - i wouldn't know

    4) The stem wont go any lower into the steerer as shown in lowest position in the picture. Do you think this is due to the taper of the stem? Or if i cut an inch off will it go down further? - if you cut an inch off you'll lose the expansion area of the stem that engages with the steerer. - you'd be better off trying to work out if there is something thats blocking the stem inside the steerer

    Any other advice based on the photos would be appreciated. Cheers

    Hope this helps

  • *4) The stem wont go any lower into the steerer as shown in lowest position in the picture. Do you think this is due to the taper of the stem? Or if i cut an inch off will it go down further? - if you cut an inch off you'll lose the expansion area of the stem that engages with the steerer. - you'd be better off trying to work out if there is something thats blocking the stem inside the steerer*

    Looks like quite a short steerer. There is basically not enough steerer for the stem to fit further into (I've got a 20" frame with a headtube too short to allow the stem to be fully inserted) . Also there is often a taper at the bottom of the steerer, so it it unadvisable to force it too far down and try and tighten it there. If you want to lower the bars, you need either a track style stem which angles down, or one with a shorter body.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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