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• #1778
Masters at work. Chapeau graeme and team
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• #1779
I am literally the opposite of you with my "I'll wear whatever the hell is still in the cupboard that I might not die of exposure in today" attitude, but I do love to read through the geekery that goes into making/improving the kit.
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• #1780
If you ever need a "plus size" model... I know a guy :D
Ok, more "plus plus plus" sized but the hips don't lie, apparently.
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• #1781
Nice work on that!
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• #1782
Took a long time to get back to you - life.
https://www.allensswimwear.co.uk/allens-race-suit-repair
These are the guys I'll end up using, but investigation of the suit in question revealed it was too small and "new kit time dad".Edit : they use the low heat iron fix / some sort of "super" glues.
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• #1783
And yeah, that Zoa looks great!
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• #1784
Zoa 2.0 looks great, and good to know it won't be quite as wonderfully toasty as the first iteration (which I love, but I run hot, so can get away with just a baselayer on underneath and be comfortable in sub-zero Highland temperatures). Also really interesting to see the R&D behind it. Bravo all!
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• #1785
Thanks for posting as a rather avid albion fan . I look forward to diving into condor for a gander.
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• #1786
Thank you for this, a wonderful and insightful read. People at the top of their game, doing what they do, talking about how they do it. A+ would read again.
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• #1787
This looks amazing. Great work
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• #1788
ahhhh, thank you everyone, that means a lot. I'm always a little apprehensive how much/little to post on here, aware I'm essentially representing a brand and cautious incase something might be seen as advertising/sale-focussed/promotion, so your feedback is genuinely appreciated.
The reality is I'm very lucky in that the job I have is very rewarding, and I particularly enjoy the workshops, repair sessions, and teaching at Uni's as a chance to get people interested in textiles and apparel. It's a relatively accessible art/design pastime - and something that everyone has to engage with wether they like it or not! - so I'm glad there's a interest here. I will endeavour to show some more behind-the-scenes as time allows
@Hippy that is a good reminder :) We also spent a lot of time working on the size grading, mens and womens jackets. This is to ensure things like sleeve/cuff length, hood shaping etc is graded correctly through all sizes, especially the smallest/largest options. The reality is an XXL male is not 6ft 9" (and vice-versa) but we've aimed to hit the centre of the bell-curve for arm & head dimensions.
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• #1789
Same as the others, I really like the insight. One thing I'm interested in but have zero knowledge about is the materials. I had the insulated jacket which was really lightweight but I think with sleeves generally too warm for general riding. My guess is that you took similar material and turned it into the insulated gilet? Insulated gilet is now my essential winter riding layer.
But both those seem to be made of different stuff from the Zoa jacket. Zoa is effectively my off the bike winter jacket / tooling around at 4mph. I'm very interested (probably on a tactile level because I'm not a materials guy) to feel the difference between the insulated range and old and new zoa to see how the combination of warm breathable lightweight works in the same shape and weight but reconstructed
we're all allowed to nerd out once and while right?
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• #1790
@chopsicle have you ever done much with Alpha? I love the stuff as does my partner, she uses a specialized hooded top for travelling (non-bike) and I have both rapha and 7mesh jersey/jacket which offer incredible warmth for the weight.
sometimes use the 7-mesh as an insulation layer for non bike outdoors and it’s warmer than any bulky pile fleece i have. -
• #1791
And here's a few pics of a late-phase womens Zoa sample in correct Netplus Pertex. It is not correct colour! When ordering sampling fabric, it's just whatever colour the sample roll was made in if its a new fabric, or if a running material, often the overstock of a customer order.
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• #1792
👀 can’t say too much, apart from watch this space!
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• #1793
@youramericanlover I’ll get back with some stats/weights to brings things to life when I have a sec
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• #1794
Good work Chops
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• #1795
i’m watching...
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• #1796
A shame, as that colour is great!
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• #1797
Epic work as always dude. Loving the sound of netplus.
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• #1798
@youramericanlover I guess the biggest factor is how much heat you generate, inside the insulation. As you highlight, the ('23) Zoa Insulated is a great pack-jacket, pop on at destination/stops, but if you actually do any exertion will cook up pretty quick - unless you're out on the pointy end of things.
The new '24 jacket weighs in at 365g (medium mens) vs '23 jacket at 455g. To some 90g might not seem much, but to others it's a significant difference when also factoring in packability.
Main face & inner is 1g difference per square metre (so like-for-like), but whilst some of the loss is specing a lighter weight Primaloft insulation, some is the refining of make/fit/construction, to eliminate any excess - whilst still optimising the loft and warmth.
If you are gunning it and generating lots of heat, I'm often astounded how little some people need to keep comfortable. I modded an Ultralight Insulated jacket for an athlete on Tour Divide (added a massive wrap-around insulated collar), who used it as their primary insulation piece, alongside a hooded Zoa Rainshell. ....I feel the chill really easily - makes me cold just thinking about some of those high passes!
Edit; weight edited to 365g/90g difference - got a production product on the studio scales.
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• #1799
Oh! Just remembered why I came here; Trying to get new jacket into Condor asap. Will let you know if it's tomorrow or day after when I do, but will go live on Albion site tomorrow.
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• #1800
I want to know a bit more about this material, it keeps coming up, is it as durable as sandwiched pertex insulation or are there sacrifices on durability for weight saving?
....and posting some info on New Zoa Mountain insulated jacket, launching this Tuesday. Been meaning to do this for ages, never time to go through photo archives and typing takes me an inordinate amount of time, but I'm really pleased with this product - amazing work by the whole team.
Aim was to improve a great product, by reviewing the four F's (Fit, Features, Fabric, Fabrication) which we have definitely done in a gradual way - evolution, not revolution. Cheesy and overused term, but I think every aspect has been optimised.
Biggest difference is a drop in insulation weight; the previous Zoa is a great product, great for end-of-day, pottering about, but needs to be exceptionally cold to be doing any exertion in, and/or add a waterproof layer. We're aiming to have a better all-rounder, more suited to layering and more convenient for packing.
Fabric; is a new Pertex fabric, using a new fibre called Netplus, made from traceable, salvaged fishing nets. This is one of the companies invested by Patagonia, via their TinShed initiative. It's pretty much the same weight, but has a v nice silky handle. Think we might be the first-first-to-market for Pertex Netplus
Insulation is still Primaloft Gold (Recycled), but now Gold Active, meaning interior baffles aren't necessary; this means more trapped air, and better insulation.
Fit; I was able to hone away on both mens & womens fit, by working hands-on with sampling/patterns/athlete fits, and am really pleased. Improving the hood fit/visibility was a main objective, which also inproved insulation with a better fit around neck and head to trap more air and reduce the chimney effect (warm air escaping out the top, drawing cold air up through the base). Also refined the sleeve/shoulder for better on/off fit & mobility, and the hem isn't as long ...pics coming
Features; rear pocket is now a side zipper, into a long interior net pocket. This makes it easier to access, reduces stress when turning through as stuff-sack (had a few repairs on this), and the packed jacket is a better shape to stash in frame/bar bags. As above, hood is a better fit, with improved side visibility, and there's a spacer-mesh brim in the top, for comfort under a helmet and a bit of structure
Fabrication; is essentially the same, but there's a few small tweaks/improvements. The one I'm probably most pleased with is the drawcord hem is now 'internal', and made from the seam allowance inside the jacket. This is distinct from a separate, stitched down channel which flattens the hem, instead allowing the hem to still retain volume ('optimise the puff') and warmth.
Few pics of the inhouse make/prototype process - will try to find some more of the womens fit, but early stages, work-in-progress. Again, very pleased with the quality and wearability of the samples - meaning we could dial ideas/details/fits/get athlete feedback, before plugging into factory with digital (and paper) patterns, and pretty good quality prototypes. Not sure how many dev samples were made in the end, but it was a lot and it was definitely worth it.
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