Home DIY

My bathroom (and, to be honest, a lot of the house) has a bouncy as fuck floor. We're ignoring it for the moment as we'd need to redo the bathroom to fix it and most of it is fine. However, it has caused loads of the grout to come out and a tile to crack.

So, I want to regrout and replace this cracked tile. I know it's not a permanent solution but I'm fine replacing a cracked tile every year or so for the moment.

Extra complication is that (as another poster helpfully pointed out) they are not individual tiles, each tile has 4 fake tiles and a shallow gap for grouting:

So what is the best way to regrout? None of the grouting in the tiles has cracked, it's only the grouting between the big tiles and only redoing the cracked grouting would make it all a lot quicker. However, I'm a bit concerned that I would end up with two different grout colours if I didn't redo all the grouting.

Any thoughts on the best/easiest way to do it? I'm not looking for perfection, the grout is going to crack again due to the bouncy floor, but don't want it to look too weird.

Also, any thoughts on getting the existing grout out? Thick stuff will largely come out easily and I can go multiool if it needs persuading but that is probably too thick for the in tile grouting. Cheers

... and a bit of elbow grease.

Unfortunately, it is what it is and it'll break up and get fucked again.

Personally I'd wait until the middle of the summer so there's been more movement. That way hopefully it'll last a bit longer.

Think you might have my cat

So having just had a chimney breast out, new bathroom and bedroom on the first floor, Im now fixing the fairly bodged and crappy floorboards that were under the old carpet. Going to relay them, add some new reclaimed ones to replace some and then sand and oil.

The question is, while I have the boards up, should I insulate in between the joists like i dod with the ground floor? Will I get any insulation out of it and will it help with noise reduction or will it just create a condensation nightmare?

There's a good heap of questions - you've no plans for additional flooring cover even if it's just a rug?

[Slowly editing] there's no reasonable reason to cause condensation
It's potential that very fixed secure insulation will transfer sound or alter acoustics (as will altering the floorboards thickness from aggressive sanding)
Ceilings are quite a few degrees higher than the room temperature , at worse the insulation would act like a fridge and not transfer that heat through [I've given up there before asking about lighting]

I'd put the money in a big shaggy rug

Probably will be a rug of some sort but the question is more is it wise to insulate internal floors. Which i think you are saying is not worthwhile?

Id just stuff the gaps between the joists will wool insulation, no fixed insulation.

Sanding will be normal not aggressive!

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Yeah, sound over heat for any improvement, it's a tough balance (this would have been any rubbleish material, so you see how it gets moved out for down lights and replaced for the insulation)

There was discussion about this on one of the threads - iirc a few people said don’t bother, unless it is for sound, and @Fox said there is an argument to insulate so you can zone the house effectively and only pay for heating the rooms you’re using.

Beautiful!

Cheers all, that makes sense, one less job to do then

It would be pretty impressive to have put this together from a kit, but to have made the kit yourself... great work, it looks fantastic.

What's the best way to investigate this leak?

Take up the not so old carpet upstairs and try and pull some boards up, or cut a hole in the ceiling?

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I'd say your going to have to replace the ceiling in that section anyway, so cut it. Replacing plasterboard isn't too hard.

with a camera from the nearest down light to approximately locate the the pipe and direction the pipe runs. up a ladder look across the ceiling the water may have gone to a low spot of the ceiling and be runing in-between the plasterboard joint. It also looks quite old pipe may have sealed itself (with carpet upstairs its not like someone went mental in the bathroom and has kept quiet)

hello, sorry, me again

Circling back to this issue - https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/178667/?offset=44575#17332206

So I cleaned up with the HG mould spray (which I was super impressed by, sprayed, left 30 mins and came back and it was all gone, gave a final wipe over and no mould).

Album of photos here - added a few comments

Equipment thus far

• Carlite bonding
  
• Gyproc Easifill 60 Filler
  
• hawk and trowel
  
  • various wallpaper scrapers
    
  • scrim tape
    
  • drill atachment mizing paddle and bucket
    
    

Questions:

• How much further to hack around? If it feels a little hollow on tapping should I look to remove or just try and not disturb it?
  
• Looks like the carlite stuff I picked up isn't going to be particularly suitable as it will react with the salts in the old house so should stick with lime mix
  
• any suggestions on what I should be using for the different types of cracks and holes I have?
  
• anything else I should pick up? pva glue? premade mixes
  
• is everything going to be reversible I eff up and want to start again
  
  

Going to continue to read and watch youtube but you guys are always fab

many nuances here but don't over complicate it its not rocket science .. the tools and products needed are minimal. hopefully the gypsum hasn't been added to a rapidly failing surface (it wouldn't have helped, just brought the surface up to 'smooth' but unfortunately is a standard and what you are working with). if your hesitant just try filling one or two safe areas realise it works and then go for the whole lot. yes there are other products that can be applied before but it'll be a shockingly little sticking plaster (if that metaphor works) the manufacture instructions hold so much more weight than YouTube

thanks, I do have a tendency to over think and research things. I think I just read that this shouldn't be used on external or ground floor rooms as it attracts damp but as you say it shouldn't be a big job

Zinsser exterior gloss - garage door and front door. Any reason to go with solvent based over water based? Can’t remember who the paint guru is.

I've used a lot of the water based but not used the solvent based one. I've yet to have a problem with the water based one and solvent would normally be a messy clean up and fumes.

Any recos for a good value Combination Square - nothing crazy £££s.

Using my granddad's rusty imperial one today made me think I might use a legible metric one more often.

bahco

Cheers

On a similar tip; got to paint an old Victorian front door. Would All-Coat be the product to use if I don’t want it to fade/peel after a couple of years?

Partner wants to use Little Greene ‘Exterior Eggshell’, but it’s very expensive…

You could use All-coat. I usually use the gloss version. For front doors I have used LG exterior eggshell but the last few I've used Mylands. It will depend how accurate you need the colours to be. If it's a statement colour then be careful getting it mixed in a different base.

Usually a front door doesn't need a lot of paint, .75 or 1l.

As always, thank you!