Home DIY

I'm going for half-lap joints for replacing the shed window.

Is there a convention for which way to lap(?) them. Idk if my question makes sense, but basically A. or B.

(assuming you're standing outside looking into the shed)

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I realise the picture looks like a butt joint, but just image the cut outs are behind.

Once you've started to remove the loose stuff, you'll get a feel of how stable the surrounding plaster is and will be able to tell if it needs to come out or not.

PVA for sure to seal the bricks (if you're going that far back) or wall before you do the bonding and easifil. I followed this video
when I've had to fill in small-medium size wall issues.

As it's an internal wall, I wouldn't be concerned about mixing modern and lime plasters as there shouldn't be any moisture moving through the wall if the bathroom's leak has been sorted.

Be careful with the drill and paddle mixer, you might burn out the motor when doing the bonding as it goes pretty thickkk. I keep a garden trowel handy for mixing this usually.

Flexitubs and rubble bags will be your friend for tip runs. Don't dispose of anything down the drains (inside or out).

I would avoid exposing end grain to the rain & UV.

Good approach.

B. it is then.

Also fucking annoyingly I cut all the peices last night and forgot to cut the centre brace/divider. Especially annoying as my mitre saw isn't that easy to access, and I trimmed the verticals together to get them exactly the same size.

Always forget how long measuring takes. YouTube videos skip this don't they!

Tried out my 1/4" router. Think I need a bit more practise and possibly manage my expectations. I was expecting it to be able to tear up a couple of cm in one go, but it's much more of a bit by bit approach. Could also be the battery running out... given it did run out. I can see why people have corded 1/2" ones.

So back to cutting the bulk of the half laps with a saw... although thinking about it, I may test my circular saw on a test piece to see if that'll speed things up while maintaining consistency - I have 12 to cut out, and only half way through 3. At least I'll be able to tidy up with the router. And in any event I'll need it for some of the shaping after.

Anyway, nice to be trying something new out and hopefully producing something decent at the end. Albeit for a shed.

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You will likely need a finer tooth circular saw blade for finish cuts.

Will these be okay or is it one of those it's worth spending more on? Blade that came with the saw is just 16.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083M82K2W/

Saxton blades are pretty good when I've used them.

Freud diabolo too.

Seconded on Saxton. I think I have that 80T on my mitre saw (or the equivalent diameter) and it leaves a lovely cut. You'll just need to to a bit slower than with a 16T. Use the 16 for just ripping stuff to bits or cuts where finish is not important. Keep the 80 for fine stuff and it will probably last you forever.

Learnt quite a bit last night:

1. routers are limited and require more skill and knowledge that I expected/previous tools. More practise needed, but started to get the measure of it... Oh and they are fucking messy!
   
2. Cordless 1/4 routers rinse through little 8yo batteries.
   
3. Soft wood is a bit shit
   
4. Trust your measurements and cut to the right depth/space rather than going short and tidying after
   
5. I understand why all youtubers have table saws
   
6. I need to workout some sort of outdoor work table/upgrade to my dads knackered old workmate (how I wish I'd replaced the top before ply went ££££s 😭)
   
   

Anyway, making slow progress. I've been aiming to do a step each evening. Unfortunately last night was more of a learning curve and took longer than expected. So I have my half-laps 90% complete. If tidying them up tonight doesn't take too long then I may still be able to fix them together keeping me on schedule.

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For outdoor workspace make a couple of sawhorses and use some ply/mdf as a worktop. If needed screw some 2x3 to the underside as bracing.

That's probably the most useful workspace outside of my full workbench in the garage.

That's pretty much my plan.

I use our now slightly knackered outdoor table (as pictured) in combination with the workmate if stability is required.

The challenge is working out the size and most importantly storage location for the top. My sheds are overflowing at the moment. It would be amazing if I could somehow magic up a free weatherproof one that blended seemlessly with a fence and was immune to any sort of warping or damage.

Ideally I'd like to do a version of the Charley DIY one.

Playlist https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyai2ugIzdZXJ1nnlk9art1fbWIhV-Zt_&si=ZhweCVP__e4StMB1
-Zt_

https://youtu.be/PTN3EmLiYdg?si=mmFhVDDa8YVl62Su

Does anyone have any recommendations for window privacy film? I’d like something for the lower sashes of the bay in our living room. I want something very discreet, not the shit mirror stuff you see around. Night time privacy isn’t a consideration as we’ll use the blinds when it’s dark.

We got some from http://www.purlfrost.com for exactly the same purpose about 10 or 12 years ago - picked something close to their current Wandsworth design. Easy to install, and quite happy with how it looks and how it's lasted

Rabbitgoo - stupid name, works great

Thanks both. I think I should have been more descriptive. I’m after mirrored rather than frosted. But not total mirror if that makes sense. I’m sure it exists but don’t know what it’s called!

Demi miroir.

It sounds like you have a specific vision. I would find a large supplier/retailer and order some samples. Eg https://www.lustalux.co.uk/buy-online/product/sample-of-65-reflective-medium-silver-window-film/

I always thought the angled stuff was cool, so that you don't notice it's reflective until you look straight at it. There was a hairdressers on Goswell Rd that had this.

Agreed that getting samples sounds like a good idea - Purlfrost do have reflective films, but the site makes them sound a bit too mirrored for what you want.

On the window film chat: is there frosted film out there that accurately mimics acid-etched glass? As in, very fine-grain and smooth, not 'coarse' like most of the frosted film I've come across?

Edit: to answer my own question, apparently 'dusted' film is what I'm after, for example '3M 7725-314 DUSTED CRYSTAL'.

Further on window film chat: I want to be able to look out of an upstairs window but not down into our neighbours side return. Is there some kind of directional something? Ideally down and to the right as a no go but just 'down' would be a decent compromise to avoid my kid seeing our neighbours dong every day. But we have a nice hill behind us with trees so would like to be able to see that.

Edit: oooh! yes: https://www.arcwindowfilms.com/window-film-range/vision-control-film#:~:text=Vision%20Control%20Film%20is%20an,cannot%20be%20viewed%20through%20glass.

I need to mount an artwork constructed from ceramic handmade tiles (approx 10 tiles varying sizes around 40x20cm) to a board to be hung on a wall. I’m thinking of using 18mm marine ply as the board which I’ve scored with a knife to help adhesive bonding. Should I prime the board and what is the best adhesive to use? The ceramic tiles are heavy eg 4kg each

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who's said this? a curator may ask if the ply is a part of (or integral to) the work! & It'll never separate
with 10 4kg tile mounted to one piece its the heavier side of heavy

The point is it’ll never separate! It’s an artwork to be installed in a private collection. The ply will not be visible!

I'm pretty sure it'll stick (with standard tile adhesive), but if it's needing to be transported and flexes ... just screw battens to the back