Home DIY

Included with the above no? That and

https://www.screwfix.com/p/shower-handset-bracket-chrome/5446t

Would do it

It's very similar to the bath mixer we inherited.

You can wash your hair with that head but not really shower. It's absolutely ferocious. Something wider would be nicer.

But yeah the overall point stands this is probably the way to go.

Got you. Fair. Annoyingly we've just skipped almost identical from a bathroom update after failing to find someone who could use!

Just went through a socket cable. Popped the socket RCd. Can I use a junction box to repair this?

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is there a minimum thickness of plasterboard that's safe to hang a radiator from?

Er. Maybe. Depends how many fixings and how they are distributed I'd imagine.

How can I tell the thickness short of cutting a chunk out?

Drill a hole, poke a needle through it, that will give you an idea.

Presuming boards vary by brand and age in terms of weight supported.

Probably, but in general, single or double skin seems to be the standard. But when fitting anything heavy to plasterboard making sure the fittings are appropriate and well distributed is key.

I am not an electrician but I believe if you use sprung terminals and put it in a suitable box with a cable tie holding it shut you are good, eg https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-41a-junction-box-39-x-108-x-44mm-grey/7355F

I picked up a Makita DHP485 drill a couple of years ago. Recently the chuck has started wobbling all over the place. I've seen a few videos of people fixing other models online and it looks straightforward enough, although these are usually brushed models and held together a little differently.

Looking at the parts diagram and spares I'm guessing it'd be the gear assembly (no 9) that might be the culprit. Don't suppose anyone's been down this path and managed to save a wobbly drill?

not sure what restrictions there are on items it can be used on but they tend to be very competitive at the best of times so this could be a pretty sweet deal if anyone has been holding out for something big.

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seems like it's only on stuff on this page:

https://ffx.co.uk/tools/Offers/anniversary-offers/_M=MGMFFX2020A

still might be some bargains to be had though

That's why it's not a permitted zone for cables. Looks pre part P age though. @jellybaby was right about the wago, probably the easiest route although there are a few 'maintenance free' options around. Google 'maintenance free joints'.

My living room is on the other side. I think I’m just going to use the screws that come with the hooks which are 30mm. Means they’ll go through the back of the plywood and into the plasterboard but they’ll be covered so not too worried (I think)

Rainfall shower head ?

Probably need a pump to make that work properly.

Amazing, thank you. That's clearly the right approach - I just need something to get me through the winter while I can save up for a proper solution, and that would definitely do it. I'll get on it this weekend .

@Howard well spotted on the reflecto. Could've been worse tho, I'd just got out of the shower. Just glad I'm not on a register now.

@dbr unfortunately the other end of the bath is where the immersion heater is stored - there's a frame there, and some tiling, but it's all falling off I guess due to heat expansion. It's not strong enough to hold a shower, and I'll be removing it ultimately anyway, so I'm pretty much writing that out of the options.

@Jameo not pictured is the green carpet tiles, all the way up to the toilet. Be a while before those come back in fashion.

Be a while before those come back in fashion.

Don't be so sure.

People cream over supermarket flooring.

Could just be a matter of time before the same happens with carpet.

Indulge in the pinnacle of bathroom opulence with the exquisite touch of natural wool carpet. This flooring marvel not only invites an unparalleled sense of comfort and warmth but also orchestrates a seamless harmony with nature's aesthetics. With sustainability at its core and an innate resistance to allergens, this choice boasts limitless design potential, enduring durability, and an ageless charm. Enriched by its acoustic prowess, it transforms your bathroom into an enduring masterpiece, promising both indulgence and sophistication. Elevate your bathroom experience to a level of contrived elegance, where every step is a symphony of style and comfort, all woven into the tapestry of natural wool.

Our back door protrudes from the building a bit with a little flat roof covering it. This morning I noticed some water drips coming through on the inside. Pulled out the ladder and checked the roof, it seems the bitumen sheets have developed a few holes and you can see wood through them. I've got as much water off the roof as I can while it's still raining a bit and covered those holes with a bucket but what's the cheapest/quickest way of fixing this?

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You could buy some bitumen sheet (or see if local FB page has any going) and get some bitumen paint and patch the holes up. I used something called Black Jack and while it is horrible stuff it is defo waterproof and will help cover the holes and adhere the patches to the existing bitumen.

For maximum bodge you could get a tube of gutter seal silicone stuff and cover the holes. I don't know how long that would last though.

You can also get fairly cheap flashband which when you heat the back up with a hair dryer or something it will stick to almost anything. You again could just cut patches to cover the holes.

All the above are very temporary of course...

EDIT: After seeing the second photo I would probably buy a bitumen sheet and recover that and use some of the bitumen paint I mentioned. The effort and cost would be fairly small for a space that size.

Is there something over that porch that is causing a larger amount of water, dripping gutter, pipe etc? It looks like something might be dripping down and causing the staining on the wall/brick above the porch...

The Black Jack stuff looks perfect, thanks. I'm going to do a fresh epdm roof at some point but currently we're half way through a new kitchen, wall knock through, rewire and redoing the loft insulation so I can't take on much else yet.

Yeah the gutter above is dripping on to it, we've been meaning to sort it for a while but this is the impetus to actually do it.

For a wired + battery backup Smoke Alarm, is there any reason to replace one that appears to be working? I.e just getting to replace a battery in one, and it has a sticker saying "Replace Alarm before 2016" on it. Is that potentially something to do with the radioactive element decaying?

Apparently smoke alarms fail over time, nearly all of them after 30 years about a third after 10 years.

I've got 10 that need replacing next year, 3 hard wired. Massive PITA since I can't seem to find direct replacements so could be into patching holes in ceilings etc.

Ah. And I guess the "test" function only tests the alarm part, not the detector. Makes sense ta

You could get a can of test smoke to test that although not all smoke alarms are actually smoke alarms, the one in my kitchen is a heat alarm for example and I don't know if you can test that function easily and safely.