Home DIY

“Always test on a small, out of view piece before use.”

Any recommendations for a cheap pocket jig.

It's something I do rarely so not looking fancy but something better than freehand and hoping.

Wouldn't the acid react with the limestone first though?

Yes

Obvs depending on what the grout is

EazyJoint - a sort of self reacting resin grout. Idk if there's alkine in it. It comes off fairly easily.

The stains I need removing are the splashing of the slurry bed the slabs are layed on.

Like Kreg pocket hole? I’ve got the smallest simplest one and never really wanted for more tbh.

If it’s only for a occasional jobs the trend one at C£25 isn’t too bad

Has anyone tried Shou Sugi Ban?

If I wanted to make a 1m long planter, how much gas am I going to need and what type of torch?

I'd like to spend less money on accessories I'm unlikely to need again.

Haven't tried it, but I imagine the method where you tie 3 pieces together into a chimney would be the most efficient and could be done with just a small fire. https://japanwoodcraftassociation.com/traditions/techniques/yakisugi-shou-sugi-ban/

I’m sure I’ve seen a video of it being done by push-pulling the wood over a BBQ a bit easier to see how it’s going I guess?

That's kind of the approach here https://youtube.com/watch?v=sGTo39COhRQ
which looks to my very untrained eye much more laborious and longwinded.

I've seen videos of folk doing it this way.

That dude’s poor lungs :(

Cheers and @Chaley the basic Kreg and Trend ones were the ones I had seen so good to hear they are OK.

Assume this dude also has an early childhood memory of Levis Stiltskin's Inside ad

https://youtu.be/skWFyop_pxU

Yeah I'd seen this method, just want sure about how it would work on a smaller scale.

Would 1m peices be long enough to get the roaring chimney of fire? I guess I can try it first.

I’ve done a bit, as has @fox

I’d recommend a roofing blow torch if you don’t want to be working on it all week. Might be able to hire one for not much money, which would simplify the getting a gas bottle part.

You’ll have to burn, wire brush then burn again if you want a good deep black finish. Softwood like larch, Doug fir or probably pine works best.

Thanks. I guess I could hook it up to my bbq gas canister?

It's going to be using a random mishmash of spare scrap wood. Mainly some heavy old dense pine and pallet wood*. Is the point about doing two 'coats' to get the right depth, or to get it even?

I should probably say the main reasons to try are

• preserve it from rotting
  
• get a similar look across different wood types
  
• try something different from shed paint.
  
  

*the pallet wood won't be too visible

BBQ gas will work great.

I did it as a furniture / sculpture finish so aesthetics was the priority. You might be fine with one round but you will have to brush if you don’t want black soot on anything that touches it.

I’d be weary of pallet wood, could have some gnarly chems that’ll be released by fire

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Cheers

This article makes it sound like it's much harder to do than the random selection of YouTube videos I've seen do:

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.habitusliving.com/series/shou-sugi-ban-japanese-wood-burning

Methyl Bromide. Wonder what that does to your brain?
https://generalpallets.com/pallet-markings-and-what-they-mean/

Cheers. That's useful to have bookmarked.

This is a baby pallet from Halfords with no markings that has been outside for a few years. The other peices are from a super fresh and to my memory unmarked pallet that carried a rad from a warehouse to my house - pretty confident it isn't treated.

I’ve done a bit, as has fox

Here is my comprehensive 19 step guide!
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15608981/­

As @dbr says, the bigger the blow torch the better. You don't need to do the roaring chimney of fire thing unless it absolutely has to be authentic, as it will just take longer and be more faff. Trades don't bother.

You will get this

get a similar look across different wood types

But it won't look exactly the same as the grain of the wood does come through, that's kinda the point.

Personally I wouldn't make all that effort (it is quite a lot) for pallet wood.

Noted.

The front will be some heavy old pine boards - so that should be most of what you see.

PPschmee

Redone outdoor table top. Picked up a fairly crappy bit of wood for under a tenner and used some stuff I had in the back of the cupboard to finish it. Not the neatest job but only took a couple of hours so will see how it does.

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Does no one use slotted countersunk screws any more, for eg. to attach door handles? I'm putting a bunch of ebay buys on the doors, screws are knackered but B&Q don't seem to sell them. I'm only replacing like for like but it seems to be the done thing, and I really hate the way slotted screws inevitably have sharp burrs on them - particularly shit for door handles. Why shouldnt I just use pozi/philips?